580c will not stay running

jriddle99 · Mar 14, 2015

I have a Case 580c that will not stay running. It runs for a couple of minutes and then dies. when you start it back up, it does the same thing, runs for a few minutes and then dies. I have replaced both fuel filters, did not find any clogs in fuel lines from the tank to the filters, from filters to pump, pump screen is also clear. no clog in fuel return line. someone suggested putting an electric pump on to feed fuel to filters from tank, did this, but found no change. pulled air filter, no change. engine runs fine, but stalls after a few minutes, seems like lack of fuel. does anyone have any suggestions as to where to go from here. replacing the pump is really expensive, and would hate to spend the money just to find out that wasn't the problem. Thanks,
James

ScottAR · Mar 14, 2015

Silly test, loosen the fuel cap.... or take it off even if nothing can fall in. If the cap can't vent into the tank then it more or less pulls a vacuum and fuel won't flow.

iowaharry · Mar 14, 2015

I fought with a diesel Tracmobile half the winter and it all straightened out when I got in a new load of fuel. Whodathunk?

Ronsii · Mar 15, 2015

Make sure and check the fitting on top of the injector pump, there *is* a check ball in this fitting if *any* debris gets in the fitting it WILL shut the motor down when pressure rises because of the blockage. The blockage is usually caused by small pieces of the pumps seals wearing out...

ScottAR · Mar 15, 2015

What Ronsii describes is what ultimately happened to my 580d.

707 · Mar 15, 2015

Are the filters full or empty after it quits running ? Can you reach high idle ?

thepumpguysc · Mar 15, 2015

Remove the return fitting from the top of the pump.. [check valve]
NOT just the line, but the entire fitting..
Now start the engine.. if it runs and doesn't shut off, its a "flex ring" problem.. inside the pump.
Let us know what happens..

jriddle99 · Mar 15, 2015

scottAR: tried what you suggested with the fuel cap, still doesn't want to run...same results as before

jriddle99 · Mar 15, 2015

at thepumpguysc: removed the return fitting (check valve) and it will run and could accelerate it. when i put the check valve back in, it ran for a couple of minutes and then it died. when i restarted it, the time that it would run seemed to be less than that and each time after it would be less and less, could not accelerate. what is the purpose of the return check valve, and can the backhoe be ran without it? checked the ball inside the fitting, and there does not appear to be any debris in there.

jriddle99 · Mar 15, 2015

removed the return fitting (check valve) and it will run and could accelerate it. when i put the check valve back in, it ran for a couple of minutes and then it died. when i restarted it, the time that it would run seemed to be less than that and each time after it would be less and less, could not accelerate. what is the purpose of the return check valve, and can the backhoe be ran without it? checked the ball inside the fitting, and there does not appear to be any debris in there.

thepumpguysc · Mar 15, 2015

Its a VERY COMMON problem.. The pump maker put a "plastic" ring inside the pump that deteriorates over time..
In a pinch, you could remove the check valve and smash the glass ball and spring out of it, using a hammer and punch..
THIS IS NOT A FIX !!! it will get you going in a pinch.. The FLEX RING is broken and the pump needs to be repaired..
Why it shuts down is>> the small pieces of flex ring clog the check valve, blocking the return fuel.. housing pressure builds and overcomes INLET FUEL PRESSURE..
If you cant get fuel OUT, you cant get fuel IN..
If your going with the hammer/punch method remember>> all those "plastic" pieces are going back to the tank and will cause problems later on..
ALSO, the ring keeps 2 metal pieces from smashing into each other.. once its broken the 2 pieces start hitting each other and eventually will shear off.. then you have a run-away engine..
The pump/engine needs to be timed before you pull the pump for repair..
IF you need help, just shout.. TPG

jriddle99 · Mar 15, 2015

can i rebuild the pump myself? or do you know of someone else who can do it for me? or am i better off just buying a new/rebuilt one? the new/rebuilt ones cost any where from 1100 to 2000 with the core charge.

thepumpguysc · Mar 15, 2015

I'll shoot you an email..

David Mundkowsky · Aug 10, 2018

Over the past couple of weeks my 580c started doing the same thing. I fallowed thepumpguysc advice and it did help. I would like to know if you could send me the info for rebuilding the pump myself that you sent jriddle99 for rebuilding them. Thanks, Dave

thepumpguysc · Aug 10, 2018

NO.. I don't do internet rebuilds..
You can smash the ball out to get the machine to a shady place & pull the pump..
I'd be happy to do the rebuild for ya.. {cheap}
Just incase it needs to be said.. Take the fitting OFF the pump before you smash the ball & spring out..

David Mundkowsky · Aug 10, 2018

That would work for me, in the thread, you said the engine and pump have to be timed before you pull the pump, do you know the procedure for this? I am still looking for my shop book, it got misplaced in a move. please let me know, Dave

thepumpguysc · Aug 10, 2018

Shut off the fuel or pinch the line..
Remove the side cover on the inj. pump.. the pumps gonna be full of fuel until it drains out..{can or bucket handy}
Under the cover you'll see a stationary line.. thers another one in there that rotates.
Rotate the engine by hand until the 2 lines meet & stop.. pump timing done.
Please post the #'s off the name plate {1st line}

Tinkerer · Aug 10, 2018

David Mundkowsky said:
I am still looking for my shop book, it got misplaced in a move. please let me know, Dave

You can download it here -----> https://www.minnpar.com/manuals4.as...als&SSFName=CASE 580CK MODEL C SERVICE MANUAL

rpdb · Apr 2, 2020

Hello to all, I am new to this forum. I have a 1977 580c extendahoe. I put 5 gallons of fuel in, quit after 15 minutes, and now will only run for a minute at a time. Drained all fuel, replaced filters, checked inlet screen at IP all clear. Good flow of fuel to the IP. Found what looks like coffee grounds in the return line check valve from the IP, must have a bad flex ring. I have ordered a rebuild gasket kit that comes with the one piece weight cage that eliminates the flex ring.
The injection pump is a Roosa Master (Stanadyne) DBO431AJ3205.
I am hoping to find a service manual for this pump, but can only find DM, D2 and other pumps.
Does anyone here have a manual for a DBO4 pump, or somewhere I could find one? I need all the torques and specs and diagrams.

thepumpguysc · Apr 2, 2020

The DBO is just the superseded part number for the DBGFCC #..
If ur gonna try it yourself.. u need a DB2 & a DB manual..
They really screwed up w the manuals..
There’s only 3 torques u need & only 2 are important..
The END PLATE IS 30-35inlbs
The DELIVERY VALVE is 90 inlbs. & the cam ball screw is 300-350inlbs.. u GOTTA HAVE the special tool & bushing to remove & install the cam screw.. or IT WILL BREAK.
Don’t say nobody warned u...
Good luck.. & remember, we ALL charge more if the pump comes in disassembled..

580c will not stay running

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