Hooray!!!

It looks like it also says natural gas. It might run on propane but not well. You will need to turn that load block way down if it goes down that far, or add a tighter one if this is true.

The purpose of the demand regulator is to regulate 11" down to 0" or -1" or so and then the load block is the mixture adjustment. It takes a way smaller propane orifice than for natural. Ignition timing is also supposed to be less but we can cross that bridge once we get the mixture down better.

I think the problem thus far was probably the demand regulator being forced open by 50-150 psi propane and when you closed the hand wheel you were getting the pressure range down somewhere it could work with. I have successfully gotten mis configured engines to run clean by varying shutoff valves in this way, vise grips on a hose, etc. They will not run under varying loads like this but it proves a theory of excessively rich mixture when things get weird.

I guess the next steps are to Tee in guages and go from there.

I'll continue the experiment Monday and let you know the results.

One last question for now......What should I use on the pipe fittings for thread sealer?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

If you are just scabbing low pressure things together for testing and the threads are brass to brass or aluminum I use no sealer at all and not too tight. It keeps the mess down. Leakage is usually minimal but check before hitting the starter switch, you know why.

For low pressure threads I just use teflon paste or even good old Rectorseal just apply it very carefully so none gets past the first thread. I rarely use Teflon tape because it tends to break off and plug things downstream since it is a solid material.

For tank pressure fittings I use about 2 layers of teflon tape covered carefully with paste, never any past the first thread and never too thick so that almost all of it gets sucked into the threads and not piled up all over the place. And I turn these threads in as tight as I dare depending on the female part I am working with (don't want to break it) but tank pressure has a way of leaking if you give it the smallest opportunity.

For this job I would not bother to gauge the 11" pressure because as you can see from the tag it is not too critical. Just put the right tank regulator on and go. You might have to readjust the Maxitrol regulator for a slightly negative pressure at the outlet if there is a port you can test it at. Normally those regulators have the spring removed and then they are installed upside down and gravity on the piston provides the necessary force. This might be a different kind of system here.

Possibly relevant. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...Adjusting-a-propane-carb-right&highlight=Kits

When you get whatever problem fixed that is causing it to run poorly, it is amazing how well and easy to adjust a propane engine is. Just turn the load screw until it seems "happy" and you are generally good to go at all loads.

Hi BV:
I got the unit running pretty decent now with no load on it. Plumbed in a regulator and with a little fine adjustment on it and with the tank valve open it will smooth right out. I know this isn't a permanent solution but at least we know the unit is capable of running properly. We still need to plumb in a shut off solenoid as well.
Is there still a need to invert the regulator at the engine?

I put a couple videos on You tube...............

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2IUy4lK5uk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx1Uau1HfH0

Ah videos, even better than pictures, isn't modern tech great.

By installing the adjustable regulator you are able to compensate for the undersized fuel line, high pressure to the Maxitrol inlet, a misadjusted load block, or anything else wrong, and it probably will not regulate varying loads like that, but at least you got it to run, which, like you say, is the main thing.

I would not go messing with the Maxitrol regulator or anything else until you get it fed with a proper 11" W.C. 3/4" fuel line. My suspicion is that the load block will need to be closed way down, as propane is roughly 2.5x the energy as natural gas. Can you confirm that the unit is setup for natural?

Yes, the interweb is a wonderful thing!

Any suggestions on a regulator (make, model?) to get the tank pressure down.

If the only thing that determines if its setup for propane or natural is the load block setting then its set for propane (load block dimension is 9.5mm vs 14mm I believe).

Once I get some more parts on it (regulator and shut off solenoid) I should check timing next correct?

In your opinion would the 100# tank supply enough flow with the unit loaded?

Thanks

A standard house type twin reg will work for full capacity:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fisher-Cont...713?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4634868c61

One of these would work good enough for testing:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/sto...ssure-lp-regulator-200000-btu-hr?cm_vc=-10005

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59333-Horizontal-Propane-Regulator/dp/B0024E6TX2/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

or whatever you can find in the hardware store. 200,000 on the regulator vs the 300,000 on the nameplate does not bother me but you should probably not use a 75,000 barbecue regulator.

The 100# cylinder will be good enough for a good long run especially if filled all the way. It will freeze up after many minutes or hours, but you can keep it warm by running a garden hose on it while running.

The timing might need to be backed off. You would probably have to call PSI on that. See if you can see what it is at right now and we can decide if it is worth doing.

Great, that's saved me a lot of time, Thanks a ton!

I'll be off to the local TSC to pick up a regulator. Do you think they would have a shut off solenoid as well or will I need to source that elsewhere.

Here's a screen shot of the settings info I have, with timing settings.

Hi BV:

Would this work for the shut off?

That is the valve I use from these guys: http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/gv50046001-solenoid-valve-12v-34-npt-p-1376.html I have not seen these available anywhere locally. They seem like a specialty item.

That is great info there. It seems like all you should need. If you have a way to verify that the setting the zero governor (Maxitrol) is not bypassing gas when the engine is not running, with only 11" on its inlet, that would be good but I would not sweat it if you can't (it looks difficult). Then I would consider the load block setting an inital setting and after the timing is set, fine tune the load block for minimum governor/throttle position under varying loads.

Hi BV:

I got the regulator today from TSC (Mr Heater, 11" water pressure at outlet, 1/4" NPT in and 3/8" NPT out) and replaced the adjustable one I had on it. Plumbed it in with existing hose and the unit would barley run. Teed in a gauge just past the regulator and it read 13" water with engine running (barley) and tank wide open.

Will get a bigger hose (3/8" or 1/2"?) tomorrow and see if that cures it. Shutoff valve also on the way.

I'll keep you posted.

You put the new regulator on at the tank, right?

Yes, right at the tank, I'm hoping a larger diameter hose will be the answer now.

You say it is 13" at the inlet of the Maxitrol? If so then your regulator setup is just fine for now. You probably just need to tune up the load block then.

I was reading 13" at the outlet of the tank regulator. As mentioned the engine would barely run. You think the load block adjustment will cure it or should I put a larger diameter hose on first?

profrooky said:

I was reading 13" at the outlet of the tank regulator. As mentioned the engine would barely run. You think the load block adjustment will cure it or should I put a larger diameter hose on first?

Click to expand...

If you were still using that tiny hose then I am sure the flow was far too restricted. My book says 1" or 3/4" hose is the right size for that short run but 1/2" might be good enough.

Ok, I'll get a 3/4" hose and see what happens. The hose should only be 5' long.

Hi BV:

Finally got the shutoff valve and larger hose installed today.

It will just barely fire with the tank valve barely cracked open. Open it any more than 1/8 turn and the engine quits. Removed the shut off valve and same thing. I have a gauge teed in at the tank just past the tank regulator. Reads 13" before cranking engine then drops off to 4" during cranking. Didn't have time to go back to the smaller hose and adjustable regulator but will try that in the morning to make sure it still runs good that way.

Any thoughts about why the pressure is falling off. The 100# tank is feeling a little light so I'll try a full 20# tomorrow. This thing is starting to p@$% me off!