takeuchi tl130 won't start

Just crank no start. All fuses are good relays are good. It started fine yesterday but nothing today any ideas?

Do you hear the fuel solenoid click and fuel pump running with key on? Has fuel? Fuel filters full? Starting fluid make it pop off?

2004 Takeuchi TL130 - No Start, Starter Not Cranking
Best thread that I can find to post the following.
I was operating my 2004 Takeuchi TL130 in about 40 degree F weather, it died, possibly by overpowering the hydraulics(unsure what caused it to die). I tried to start the machine after a few minutes and nothing, just rapid clicking from the starter. Here's what's been tested.
1. Removed Battery(2mo old, 850 CCA Everstart) from machine, charged overnight to 12.9V, cleaned terminals and reinstalled. It was at 12.2 when I removed it from the machine, I was operating it at night with the lights on so my alternator could possibly be part of this problem. Need to get running so I can test it.
2. Removed Starter to do a bench test, operated correctly when jumping solenoid starter wire from key to battery terminal, reinstalled starter.
3. Tested voltage at starter to ground on machine, reads 12.84 V @ the starter to engine block.
4. Tested voltage at battery 12.89 V
5. Turn key to start, rapid clicking, sounds like not enough amps to crank starter?
6. Hooked up Jumper cable to battery to try and jump the machine, same effect.
7. Tried shorting solenoid terminal to 12V terminal from battery, starter won't turn over.
8. Turned key to start position to turn over, voltage dropped to 12.64 while "cranking". Of course it wasn't cranking but it was getting sufficient amperage, or so I thougt.

After these test, I'm not sure where I should turn to next.

Remove stop solenoid from injection pump. Two 10mm headed screws. 3 wires (red, white, and black).
Attempt to start machine. If it starts, push finger into hole, depressing lever, to stop engine.
If it starts, it's electrical, and we can guide your testing from there.
If it don't, it ain't electrical.

Little to no oil will come out solenoid hole when running. Be sure to not lose O-ring under stop solenoid.

Thanks for this tip heymccall . Still was a no start after this. Here's what I did;
Traced it back to corroded positive cable wiring about 1" from battery connector. There was about 4 to 6 stranded wires in the 2ga positive cable that weren't corroded, repaired cable & machine started.
1. Let it idle for 10 min to warm up to operating temp
2. Operated for 1 hour,
3. Idled down to move some brush(5 min)
4. When I idled the machine back up it died.
I then experienced positive cranking but no start, Fuel Delivery Issue? Let it cool down for 15-20 min and it started again.

Post #2 here... https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...except-with-starting-fluid.81146/#post-863005

And post #2 here (ignore electrical part)... https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/tl140-problems.76304/#post-802990

Thanks, great threads. Will inspect and repair fuel lines if needed.
Sounds like this is a common problem on takeuchi ctl's.
Will keep folks updated as I work out the problem.

UPDATE: Drained tank then changed the fuel supply line from tank to fuel/water separator. Also did the update to the banjo fitting on supply line from tank, 3/8 brake line worked great. Let me know if my fix looks correct. Used the same O-ring, time will tell if I should have replaced it. Found that the fitting going into fuel/water separator was loose, drilled & tapped a threaded 1/4 NPT fitting on there to fix that. Topped off new filters with fresh diesel. All good here but...new problems.
SYMPTOMS: Machine fired up and ran great. Let it warm up for 5-8 minutes, moved it 3 feet and it stalled. Then it would start after 20+ seconds of cranking, run for 10 or so seconds and die. Did this 3 times. Plan to try a another new fuel filter tonight.
Side note: Tested voltage to ground @ lift pump, had 12.51 volts to ground with key on, battery tested @ 12.59. Anyone know how to check if these pumps are working? Currently I don't hear anything from the pump at all when I turn the key. Not sure if I'm supposed to.
Also, the horn doesn't appear to work on this machine - could be related?, the fuse panel is corroded where the horn fuse is, planning to rewire this soon.

Pump is a "rattler". It just oscillates left/ right.
Should be on when key is in RUN position, regardless of whether the engine is running or not.

Test...pinch off pump outlet hose. Remove outlet hose from pump. Place a length of 5/16" hose from pump up out, up over door and down to a bucket. Turn key on. Pump should output fuel.

@heymccall, thanks for the tip.
Tested it just as you had described and nothing. This thing must have never worked since I've owned it.
Replaced with a Holley 4-7psi lift pump from AutoZone(they couldn't find a matching part number).
Now it makes a nice rattling sound each time the key is turned. And it start much more easily, more power too but not sure if that's just the placebo effect....LOL

Next steps - rewire horn circuit, latching relay for float arm control. And a tachometer install would be nice to know what rpms it's operation at.