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case 1845c drive motor still leaking. Ideas?

dahmer95

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
I've got a 1996 1845C with a leaking right side drive motor. I bought the Case rebuild kit with all of the seals. I pulled the drive motor last weekend and replaced all of the seals on it. The motor was in great shape with no obvious issues. The casing is all in good shape and has no cracks or severe signs of wear. After re installing it the motor worked as it should, except it is still leaking in the exact same spot!!:Banghead There are 3 separate pieces to the motor. It is leaking between the last two pieces. (The joint closest to the center of the machine) The oil is dripping out at the same rate as before. The casing does not fit tight together and didn't before. The left side drive motor fits together the same way so I'm assuming that is the design? Should I disassemble again and install some sort of sealant between the joints? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I can't see spending $1700 on a new drive motor when the one I have works great, but only leaks. Thanks.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,127
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Just to help someone figure this out is there anyway you could get a good picture of the joint that is leaking oil? Maybe point to it with a pencil to avoid confusion?
 

dahmer95

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
The first pic is of the drive motor. The second pic with the pen shows which joint the leak is coming from. It's coming out the bottom side of that casing joint. IMG_1428.jpgIMG_1427.jpg
Thanks
 

sheepfoot

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
1,259
Location
wilmington nc
If you have a welding supply store close by I think you should check it for a hairline crack. The product is called like spot check, it has three cans and three steps. You clean your part, spray the die and let it soak in, then use the white coating and it will show the crack if it has one. It could also be a casting issue that has made it's way to the surface. That machine is around 25+ years and that system runs at 4600-4900 psi with a max of 5200 psi. As the oil gets hotter and thinner it is less forgiving. Something in the seal grove area not cleaned before install or thinking you may have received a bad seal kit but with the leak in the same area I think it's a crack or casting problem that's not going away.
 

sheepfoot

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
1,259
Location
wilmington nc
I think what mikebramel means is putting your part on a flat surface and using a fine sandpaper 880+ finer the better, with cutting oil, move your part in a figure 8 pattern to refine the surface. I would think that since you are dealing with a o ring sealing grove unless there is a nick or scrape, or crack the o ring should seal it. Most shops that do pump repair have lapping tables so you can fine tune surfaces to insure the best contact of flat surfaces. Your working on the later style danfoss gerotor type drive motor.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,127
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Is there an "O"ring in that joint area? I could not quickly find a break down on the pump online all I see is the complete pump.
 

dahmer95

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
There is an o-ring in that joint which was replaced when I installed the rebuild kit. The two pieces of casing don't actually seal to each other. There is a gap between them which is roughy 1/32". This is the same on the left side drive motor as well and it does not leak a drop. This link will take you to the breakdown of the drive motor. http://partstore.casece.com/us/casepartstore/parts-search.html#epc::mr57482ar337632bi109895-16
The #16 part (O-ring) is where the leak is occurring.
 

Bulldog777

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
Messages
39
Location
Australia
Occupation
Construction Manager / ex Mechanic
I think it would be either, a crack in the housing or an un uneven surface.

Assuming you checked the oring seat before installing.....

I think pull apart and check for all 3

Best Wishes

Bulldog
 

dahmer95

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
I was very thorough in my inspection when I had the motor apart. I decided to order a "Case" original seal kit. The one I used the first time was from LPS. It just came in today and the first thing I noticed is that the Case O-Rings are much thicker. I'm hoping that is the issue. I'm going to pull the motor again tomorrow and try the rebuild again with the genuine Case kit. Wish me luck!!
 

Bulldog777

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
Messages
39
Location
Australia
Occupation
Construction Manager / ex Mechanic
I was very thorough in my inspection when I had the motor apart. I decided to order a "Case" original seal kit. The one I used the first time was from LPS. It just came in today and the first thing I noticed is that the Case O-Rings are much thicker. I'm hoping that is the issue. I'm going to pull the motor again tomorrow and try the rebuild again with the genuine Case kit. Wish me luck!!

Yeah, that should do the trick, its best to buy dealer stuff, I think you should lap the facings though.
 

dahmer95

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Illinois
New seal kit installed. So far so good. The weather here in IL is crap right now so I didn't get a chance to run it hard and really get it hot, but I did drive it around on the asphalt for 10 minutes or so. Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll update once the weather clears up and I can get some time on it.
 

waynesweb

Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2020
Messages
9
Location
houston
There is an o-ring in that joint which was replaced when I installed the rebuild kit. The two pieces of casing don't actually seal to each other. There is a gap between them which is roughy 1/32". This is the same on the left side drive motor as well and it does not leak a drop. This link will take you to the breakdown of the drive motor. http://partstore.casece.com/us/casepartstore/parts-search.html#epc::mr57482ar337632bi109895-16
The #16 part (O-ring) is where the leak is occurring.
 
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