If it were me...
1) I would look at the land and see how the water flowed vs how I wanted it to flow and work out the path NOW, trying to work with gravity as much as possible.
2) I would go down to the clay and level it out at about 6", then install whatever drainage I needed to. If I expected heavy traffic I would go down to 10"
3) It can be argued that getting down to the clay allows to you avoid geotextiles, which are for when you CAN'T get to the clay. I figure, on a new road with a significant capital investment... why not go the extra step? Also, if I have the option, I like see geotextile come up the side of the trench as well. Not two feet out and flapping in the breeze mind you, but up to the point where it's even with the surface level.
4) If I was down 10", I would put down a layer of #2's, then a layer of #311, then a layer of #4 and then a layer of #411, with the #411 rising 2" proud of the surrounding terrain, then top with a layer of #57's. I would compact with a dual-drum vibratory after the #311, the #411 and the #57's. Also, in case it's not clear, I would be using limestone.
5) If I was only down 6", I would start with the #4's, but otherwise follow the same recipe.
Of course, that's only going to add up to about 13 or 14 inches of gravel at the most, but if you're really bound and determined to go the full 16" you can always dig slightly deeper and/or stack slightly higher.