Just bought a used JCB backhoe.

JBFromOZ · Dec 5, 2010

I've now replaced the boom lock cable, being very careful about the routing, to try to ensure no tight radiuses, however the lever inside the cab is still really hard to lift, (to release boom lock) does anyone know if the cable is meant to be lubricated? from my motorcross days, we never lubricated any control cables, cos they might start off slightly smoother, but the oil was a dirt magnet, and in dusty/dirty environment just ended up siezing control cables, any suggestions as to what the go would be for the 3CX? thanks

Anto Modded · Dec 5, 2010

Some place when getting the cable can put a grease nipple on it. On our old kubota we had years ago the throttle cable was stiff, so we got a guy to make on up. He added a grease nibble on it we would grease every so often but not too much. Did you check the handbrake the cable is attached to for lifting the boom lock

JBFromOZ · Dec 5, 2010

i've greased the lever assembly inside the cab, to give that the best chance of sliding freely, but the cable is dry end to end. it seems to drop the plate easily enough ,its the lifting of the plate that is the issue, maybe it needs a stronger spring on the plate

Rally_Action · Dec 5, 2010

My 3CX boom lock is hydraulic. It has a small slave cylinder on the boom that raises/lowers the plate when the master cylinder handle is pumped inside the cab.
Usual story, the boom lock hydraulics have crapped themselves. Now we just manually move the plate and bolt it in the unlocked position when digging.

greateroperator · Jun 23, 2011

Those are two different machines.

stephenspann27 · Jan 20, 2014

I am working on an 1988 1400b. A manual would be awesome. Please PM me if you have one that would work.

joerauh · Apr 24, 2014

I also just bought a 1400B from a 'friend'. Been chasing an overheating problem for a few months. (Slowly replacing hoses, water pump, fixing leaks (in the filler tube)). It's taken a few months due to other leaking and electrical issues. Looks like Rube Goldberg worked on this baby a few times...
My symptom is that when I turn it off after working a couple hours, the coolant start boiling out the overflow. I still have the thermostat to replace next, but I fear the head may be toast, or at least the head gasket. IF the thermostat does not work, and the radiator flush does not either, we want to check the compression.
Question (finally):
1) What sort of compression should I have in the vintage (1987) Perkins?
2) If I do need a new head gasket (or head) are they easy to find?
3) Were to I find the info to buy the correct head gasket (or head)? ID Plate, engine block, ..?
4) any other suggestions for this rube?

Many thanks JoeRauh

stock · Apr 24, 2014

Joe,
I have the info but need to dig it out.............and I away from my office for a couple of days.......

Stock

CDNDIESELMONKEY · Apr 24, 2014

The brake fluid VG 15 was a light weight hydraulic fluid JCB made just for brakes. Any hydraulic oil will work. We use HYD 46 weight oil. DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE BRAKE FLUID!

Delmer · Apr 24, 2014

Joe,

That's quite a leap from boiling on shut down to a bad head/gasket. Are you an expert who didn't mention checking all the other stuff, or is this your first experience with old junk?

Yes, parts are easy to find, as cheap as any, but you might have to wait.

joerauh · Apr 24, 2014

Not a newbie to old junk, and understand your concerns. (thank you) I have two, maybe three smart mechanic friends who know their tractors and deal mainly in 'end of life' vehicles. I'm blessed enough that they will not let me do too much stupid stuff before they 'approve'. I feel it's head gasket or head because the heating problem, is slowly getting worse and on the vent from the valve cover I get water condensation. After replacing the last faulty hose, I've notice a small amount of black oiling substance in the radiator when I refill it. I know I have just the radiator and thermostat to 'eliminate' prior to touching the heads. I hope the back flush will give me enough feeling about the radiator to leave it or .... I priced a new rad, and it was over $2000. Hopefully the forum may give me a less pricey alternative if needed.

Thanks again for the response.

Delmer · Apr 24, 2014

I assumed that it only boils over when you shut it off. That sounds like it's running hot and only boiling when the flow stops. If the head/gasket was leaking it should leak the whole time it's running hot. Have you checked the temps of the top and bottom, and front and back of the radiator? That will tell you if it's overheating and boiling when you shut it off, or if it's building pressure before it's boiling. Those temps might also tell you if the radiator is plugged, water or air. Have you looked through the radiator with a light on the other side to see how clean the core is? Can you see the tops of the tubes inside the radiator, through the cap or the hose? After you flush it, you can run straight distilled or rain water to see how dirty it gets, and if it helps run cooler. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge, water will boil at a lower temp than antifreeze.

If it's been run hot it's entirely possible that you have a bad head gasket, AND the overheating problem that caused it.

cyberbiker0 · Apr 25, 2014

by the looks of dated comments, I'm a bit late to do much good. if your backhoe looks anything like this, than it's probably a JCB 3CX Sitemaster too.

it had all the same problems you mentioned + fluid pumping up through the transmission fill tube (rigged up an overflow container), brake leaks (fixed), servo manifold leaking, 4WD engagement cable rusted froze (replaced) & wires controlling the clutch solenoid are unplugged (so i must have it in neutral to change gears) ...the fuel injector pump has fowled out, so now it wont even run & i paid $17,000 for mine. so i am feeling mighty ripped off that you got your for $8,000 less. :Banghead

i have saved a ton of money fixing things myself (such as the boom seal)

$70 for the seal kit & took about 5 hrs to do - about the same for the hoe ram also $180 for master cylinder (dealership) & $115 for the other (ebay) ...but only $15 hose to fix the leak on the intake equipment pump (cut-to-size from Auto Zone) i just hope i get it up to par & keep it running.

iant · Apr 25, 2014

Joe,

Way off topic, but are you into old TVR's as well as old JCB's?

Ian

simonsrplant · Apr 25, 2014

Joe, just a thought or suggestion, maybe worth checking the pressure cap... If it doesn't hold pressure the boiling point drops by about 20degrees... So once flow stops through the rad, the coolant will boil. Fix is a straight forward ten quid rad cap.
Also, as a "just cos I like the stuff", water wetter (google it) lowers the running temp by a couple degrees. Works a treat in hot conditions, or to go off topic, towing (in your pick up)

cyberbiker0 · Apr 25, 2014

some chep alternatives

joerauh said:
After replacing the last faulty hose, I've notice a small amount of black oiling substance in the radiator when I refill it. I know I have just the radiator and thermostat to 'eliminate' prior to touching the heads.

I priced a new rad, and it was over $2000. Hopefully the forum may give me a less pricey alternative if needed.

Thanks again for the response.

having oily deposits in the cooling system, i would strongly suggest a head gasket. while the head is off, it'd be a good idea to have it inspected at a machine shop for pressure testing. that alone wont eliminate the overheating, but usually a cause-effect of overheating & warp-age. the thermostat is a big culprit. 2 suggestions:
remove the thermostat & dunk it in boiling water. if the plunger doesn't open, it's faulty. also, motors can run w/o the thermostat. operate it as normal with it removed. no boil-over will verify a faulty thermostat.

if it turns out the radiator is faulty, a cost effective alternative is to take it to a radiator shop to have it chem-boiled cleaned. the place here found holes & welded then shut too for our CASE 850. hope this helps

joerauh · Apr 26, 2014

Delmer said:
I assumed that it only boils over when you shut it off. That sounds like it's running hot and only boiling when the flow stops. If the head/gasket was leaking it should leak the whole time it's running hot. Have you checked the temps of the top and bottom, and front and back of the radiator? That will tell you if it's overheating and boiling when you shut it off, or if it's building pressure before it's boiling. Those temps might also tell you if the radiator is plugged, water or air. Have you looked through the radiator with a light on the other side to see how clean the core is? Can you see the tops of the tubes inside the radiator, through the cap or the hose? After you flush it, you can run straight distilled or rain water to see how dirty it gets, and if it helps run cooler. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge, water will boil at a lower temp than antifreeze.

If it's been run hot it's entirely possible that you have a bad head gasket, AND the overheating problem that caused it.

I ran it the other day for about 3 hours doing some brush clearing/burying min 70 degree weather.. I noticed that the water in the overflow tank was bubbling even though it still was running. So it is running hot even when running. There is no easy way to view the inner radiator rods. How do you measure temperature at the top and bottom? My guess is that you use a thermal gun on the hoses and radiator?? I have high pressure hosed the rad and can see thru it and the other cooler on front, and the fan does seem to turn, and the water pump is new. Most gauges on this old beast are non-functional, I may have to add another water temperature on the lower radiator hose.

Thanks again all for you help. JoeR

joerauh · Apr 26, 2014

Living in California, I heard that the radiator shops now are very limited in what they can do.... I was thinking about having them build a new on from the old tanks... I need to verify if it is the rad first by checking water temps. Thanks for the thermostat tip, I will do so. joer

joerauh · Apr 26, 2014

Yes, I am a registrar of the Griffith club, and raced a Griff for a while. Now working on a factory racer replica.

iant · Apr 26, 2014

joerauh said:
Yes, I am a registrar of the Griffith club, and raced a Griff for a while. Now working on a factory racer replica.

Hey Joe, I have a yellow 2500M and have met you once or twice, maybe at David Z's.
I had a case 580SL backhoe radiator redone at Kirk's radiator in El Cajon seven or eight years ago. They are an old school kind of shop in business about 50 years and I was very pleased with their work. I have also used Water Wetter in an old Lotus I had and it seemed to drop the temperature 10 to 15 degrees.
Would love to see some pictures of your racecar.

Ian

Just bought a used JCB backhoe.

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