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CAT D3 Project part 2

stumper120

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
123
Location
newhampshire
keep it coming, I am following this thread closely as my d3b is in my garage looking just like yours, machine shop just called and block and head are ready. what did you put in yours for a engine kit?
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Didn't think to many cared so I was loosing interest so I stopped keeping close notes. Guess I really need to take more pictures and document my progress. Managed to get the radiator and dash back on, filled the transmission and engine up with fluids. The machine shop I used, bought KMP kits for the upper and lower and were missing some parts, mainly wrong size O-rings. I also had a D4 oil cooler on my D3 which caused me to find another means of finding parts and more O-rings. Sent to wife to the dealer for one additional O-ring for the dang oil filter housing.

I pinned the block on Number one, then pinned the injection pump and torqued the pump to the pump gear. Hope this is all I will need to do but according to the manual there are many other things that needs to be dialed in. If it turns out it won't start when I try I will loaded it up and take it to the dealer to get it fired up. Cross your fingers for me.

Stay away from KMP kits so far as I can find
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,127
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I ordered the CAT part because it was at Louisville and could be picked up as we passed thru tomorrow. Dang there is no way a push rod is worth

So did the $32 push rod solve the problem? Don't you wish you could sell 3/8 steel tubing for that much a foot?
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
So did the $32 push rod solve the problem? Don't you wish you could sell 3/8 steel tubing for that much a foot?

Morning, guess I really should have said as the "wife" drove through, she gets back home this evening. Worked on the Dozer all day yesterday and will wait for the push rod to do anything further. Would love to sell tubing for that much, even a 2 1/2 inch O-ring for $14 each, wow.

Opened up the drain on the fuel tank and nothing came out, so I blew air in the fill tube (lot of air but no pressure) and only saw some drips come out. Did it a couple times so I thought the tank was emptied. Started pumping diesel in the tank and only managed to get about 10 to 15 gallons in it before it was getting close to full. The tank has about a 40 gallon tank so now I'm worried what else is in the tank. Haven't opened up the shut off valve to send fuel through the lines. Think I'm going to open the line up again and then poke a wire around and see if I can fee up what was clogging it.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,127
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Opened up the drain on the fuel tank and nothing came out, so I blew air in the fill tube (lot of air but no pressure) and only saw some drips come out. Did it a couple times so I thought the tank was emptied. Started pumping diesel in the tank and only managed to get about 10 to 15 gallons in it before it was getting close to full. The tank has about a 40 gallon tank so now I'm worried what else is in the tank. Haven't opened up the shut off valve to send fuel through the lines. Think I'm going to open the line up again and then poke a wire around and see if I can fee up what was clogging it.

I make it a habit of draining a couple gallons of fuel out of the tanks of each machine ever time I do an oil change. Seldom see any water but we do fuel up most equipment at the end of shift so that probably helps with the condensation problem. Plus the shop is heated with a waste oil furnace so it's free heat for shop.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Next day

All the fuel coming out looks real clean and can find nothing in it. At least this is one thing that has gone right. Radiator is on and the fan was a real Bit*h to get lined up and on. Would have been easier if I installed the fan before the radiator but did not want to take the chance of messing up the radiator.

Photo215.jpg

All ready to put the push rod in tomorrow, hope it all works out
Photo219.jpg
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Push rod, Injectors and lines

Replaced the push rod and when comparing side by side the one removed was a bit shorter. All looks about right now with height but the new push rod resembles the old one.

Photo220.jpg

Installing the injectors took a bit more doing then expected. Needed to bend the lines in a few places to get them to line up with the pass thru connectors
Photo221.jpg

All buttoned up, need to get a thermostat, antifreeze, install the battery and then try to crank it up
Photo222.jpg
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Thanks guys, needed a thermostat so had to order one. When the thermostat comes in hope I'll give it a try. Been working on a guys boat since last post and I will take working on a dozer any day over doing that, oh my back and knees.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Dang Problem 1 or 2

As mentioned in my first thread there was an issue with being able to turn over the engine with the starter. Put new end on the starter cable, doubled up on cables, even put an additional 8D battery in parallel. Nothing made the engine turn over any faster. Had the starter look at and cleaned and they found nothing wrong with it. The shop had nothing to load test it. Tried starting again and the starter was even slower and some tries, even with extra cables and batteries.

Pulled the valve cover off and found the rust, so on with the current rebuild. So here it is all together and I try to start it.

Problem 1: Engine cranks over even slower now then before, and seems to hardly be able to get a full revolution.

Checked Battery 4DLT indicates 1080 AMPS
Cable at starter is warm but not burning hot. Voltage drops to below 9V on my digital meter. When load tested it checks out good. Prior to putting the injection pump on I could turn the engine over by hand hold the front pulley, not easy but I could do it. Don't think the tranny is the issue but did not try to turn the torque converter with the engine removed.

I think it's the starter, what do you all think? :confused:

Photo224.jpg

Photo225.jpg
Puzzled
 

pp13bnos

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
354
Location
Oregon
couple years ago, I had a slow cranking issue with my stater. I'd double up batteries, and it would take off. I pulled out out, and tried to have it rebuilt, but the shop told me it would just be cheaper to get one from cat...500ish bucks later and it started , like a dream. typing this on my phone, hopefully this makes since.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Dang Problem 2 of 2

Opened the fuel supply valve on the tank trying to bleed the lines. Managed to get all bleed except the injector lines. Left all 4 fittings loose where they connect to pass thru fittings on the valve cover. The next day I found all of those lines had fuel coming out of them real slow. First thought is, that's great, did think the pump would pass fuel without it running but good it did. Tightened up all the lives and cleaned up the diesel off the engine. Found fuel on top the head on the opposite side of the injector lines and was puzzled how it got there.

After trying to start the engine I found some more fuel on top. Checked the oil and all was good and has not come up any. Pulled the top cover off and found a grove on the injector side. The groove runs all the way around the back of the cover and dumps out where I was seeing the fuel on top the head. Above each injector line I can see a small hole which with the fuel is coming out of. Does this mean I need new pass trough's or did I fail to do something correctly?

Photo226.jpg

Photo227.jpg

Double puzzled
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
couple years ago, I had a slow cranking issue with my stater. I'd double up batteries, and it would take off. I pulled out out, and tried to have it rebuilt, but the shop told me it would just be cheaper to get one from cat...500ish bucks later and it started , like a dream. typing this on my phone, hopefully this makes since.

Makes since to me, thanks. My starter (12V 4N-0241) is currently listed at $950 from CAT, and $450 from Rare Electric. Don't know anything about Rare Electric so don't know if they are a quality manufacture.
 

HATCHEQUIP

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
1,146
Location
VILLANOW GEORGIA
Going from memory here its been along time since I messed with 3204 but there are orings on the connectors where they go through the rocker box and to keep fuel from going into the engine it leaks into the groove and out
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Going from memory here its been along time since I messed with 3204 but there are orings on the connectors where they go through the rocker box and to keep fuel from going into the engine it leaks into the groove and out


Looks like your memory is working pretty well. Since there leaking they "maybe" cannot be repaired??
They cost $78 each, part number 1W-0942
 

HATCHEQUIP

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
1,146
Location
VILLANOW GEORGIA
Take lines loose and pull connectors out and put new orings on and slide back in with some oil on them and make sure the holes are clean to the groove
 

Old Magnet

Senior Member
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,003
Location
Corralitos, California
None of those D3 starters are great. The Cat unit is by Nippondenso. The rare electric unit is most likely a China built unit but then that's where they are shifting to for sourcing anyway.

Does the starter act like it's hanging up (bad ring gear teeth) or just slow to crank.

Looks like a new/different starter is in the works.
 
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