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Case 1845C Chain adjustment question

bobkmd69

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Feb 3, 2012
Messages
11
Location
Houston, Texas
I posted this in the compact wheel loader forum by accident. Sorry. Bought a well used 1845C (I think it is at least mid 90's as it has the single safety arm) to help clear my land and dig a pond. I bought it knowing that it will need some work. The previous owner told me of the issues he had with it, which seemed to me to be minor (couple of hydraulic leaks and a box of master links for when the chains slipped off). I noticed it was making a popping noise in the front left wheel, so I removed the access cover and noticed that there was a lot of slack in the chain on the axle. The chain on the gearotor was fine. That's when I ran into a bit of confusion. I went ahead and adjusted the front axle to tighten this chain, which somehow managed to loosen the main drive chain off the gearotor. I tightened this one up, but then checked the rear axle and it was also loose. When I went to adjust this one, it was already as far back as possible, and the play was over an inch. Just to be more thorough, I checked the right side and it too is very loose. Is there a proper adjustment order to these chains, or does it sound like I might need to remove a link in the chain to be able to put it back into adjustment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Welcome bobkmd69 :drinkup

You have a number of problems to address.
1) If the intermediate chain (smaller one) was tight & then loosened when the front chain was adjusted - there is likely to be a problem with the bearings on the cluster sprocket & shaft. It should not have any movement except for a little sideways end float.
2) If chains are at maximum adjustment at the hubs & are still loose - they need replacing. If you take out a link it will only allow you to tension up the worn links which will continue to break - thus the box of joiners will come in handy .......

You can buy 10' lengths of chain from most bearing supply stores - Diamond & Tsubaki are brands I can recommend - they are also the on the dearer end of the scale - still heaps cheaper than OE.
10' will make you 2 x chains.
 

bobkmd69

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Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
11
Location
Houston, Texas
alrman-

Thanks for the quick reply. You're just like fedex...I get the reponse overnight (dang timezone difference from stateside)! I started researching more about the 1845C after i bought it and found this forum. I read many of your responses and was hoping you'd see my post. It appears that this skid steer is pretty much indestructible if taken care of well with some perseverance. I was afraid that popping noise might have been the roller/needles in the bearings were shredding (had that same noise in my old mustang when the worm-gear steering went out).

The previous owner rebuilt the entire skid steer, as he bought it in pieces (engine was out, transmission shot but he installed brand new one). He 's a machinist/welder, and it was used around the shop mostly to move dirt/material. But he couldn't figure out a few things, such as how to drain and replace the oil where the chains reside. I assume it is at the back end where the two freeze-out looking plugs are located. These have been beat up badly from being hit/bottoming out. Any ideas how to coax these out?
 

maddog

Senior Member
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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
730
Location
middle TN
I agree with Alrman, I owned the 1840, once the chain/s are that bad your better of changing them. I'd also go ahead and replace bearings or at the very least check them. Make sure your sprokets aren't worn down either. If your going to have it apart ya might as well fix it the correct way and save yourself a future pain. You are also correct about these machines being tough, IMO one of the best ever made. If taken care of it should give many hrs of trouble free service. If I'm not mistaken dalton hydraulics has the bulk chain with master links, bearings, and possibly sprokets along with a boat load of other hydro parts.
 

alrman

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These have been beat up badly from being hit/bottoming out. Any ideas how to coax these out?

It should have 1/2" recessed square plugs.
I generally use a 90 degree die grinder with a rosebud burr to clean up the square drive recess to allow a breaker bar to be inserted.
 

bobkmd69

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Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
11
Location
Houston, Texas
Well I finally had a chance to inspect the "damage" to the chain drives.....not as bad as I thought. Once I pulled the plug out I was concerned when I found bits and pieces of bearings, but the cluster bearings were in good shape just a bit dry from infrequent greasing. What was really the culprit were the chains, as many of the rollers were bad/cracked/missing. Found pieces of them also in the muck. I discovered also that it would've probably been easier to replace the rear chain outdoors or at least somewhere with a tall ceiling to ur the bucket at its highest level as I was using coat hangers to grab the chain from below since my hand couldn't reach in.

I noticed that the automatic parking brake had been disconnected or broke in the past. I'm using the case only on flat and. Is it necessary to reconnect the cable system to this? Is there possibly damage done already that is waiting for the inconvenient time to show up?
 

alrman

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I noticed that the automatic parking brake had been disconnected or broke in the past. I'm using the case only on flat and. Is it necessary to reconnect the cable system to this? Is there possibly damage done already that is waiting for the inconvenient time to show up?

There should be two cables, left & right. If the cables are broken, are the actual brake pins to be found anywhere?
Normally on an 1845C, if the brake cable breaks, the pin is ejected into the chain case & roll around in there waiting to get caught up in the sprockets & chains. Have a good look to see if they are still there somewhere.
As to whether you get them working again is really up to you - just keep in mind that without them, it is possible for a skid steer to roll if parked on a hill.
 

stumpjumper83

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Jan 13, 2007
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Port Allegany, pa
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Movin dirt
Its your machine, but if it was my machine, fixing the park brake would be right under fixing the drive chains. I used to work at a case dealer sellin parts, and I don't remember the parts being too expensive. A spring, a pin, and a cable is about all thats to the park brake system in them.

Check your wheel seals if you havent already, farmers like to wrap twine around them and its hard on the seal, then when the seal goes, dirt finds its way into bearings. If the oil was milky, check for a o-ring gasket on the chain case covers, if thats good, check wheel seals again. Only other common part sold on a regular basis was the tensioner pully on the water pump / fan belt. If the tenioner goes too long it will get the water pump as well.

Good luck, you have the best skid steer made in my opinion. A late 1845c, marked my a grey cab & a single lap bar was the best thing made reliability wise and performance wise for a long time. Today they are a little outdated by 2-speed and other creature comforts, but they are very well put together.
 

bobkmd69

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Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
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Location
Houston, Texas
I assume that the pin is about 2 inches long and about 1 inch in diameter with a small nut on the end. I'll more than likely fix this, as it is starting to annoy me watching the remaining cable flop around and poke me in the arm while I'm trying to fix something else. Found one in the left side chain case. Am slowly working my way around the wheels. Found a leatherman multitool in the right side chain case, but no pin so far. I discovered that the right rear wheel bearings are shot as the endplay was about a half-inch. Day job, wife, and three kids make for a slow rebuild. Was able to remove the axle and housing without too much difficulty, but the inner bearing seal has fallen into pieces, with one piece very firmly stuck on the shaft. Should I just grind a notch in this and just cut it off or is there a less brutal/potentially damaging way to remove it?
 

alrman

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Should I just grind a notch in this and just cut it off or is there a less brutal/potentially damaging way to remove it?

Did you get this done yet? Bigger hammer & a good drift usually works well.
 

bobkmd69

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Feb 3, 2012
Messages
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Location
Houston, Texas
Actually just used a little more elbow grease and shook it up and down while holding onto the hub and the axle popped loose. Glad i had my steel toes on. The bearings were in pretty good shape, but the seals were shot. It appeared that they found as close as they could to them, as they looked nothing like the replacement ones. Have it all back together, and decided to go ahead and replace the chains on the right side. I discovered that 32 links (that is to say 32 outside links) + 1 master works for the rears and 31 + 1 for the front. I am not looking forward to getting the smaller chain back on the right as the I now see the gearotor is further back and will be an enjoyment to get the chain on that one. I also decided it would be prudent to check the cluster bearings, since I found some needles in the case. Metal on metal for who knows how long. The axle looks salvageable, as does the cluster sprocket. Just trying to find a local place to get the bearings now. NAPA said it comes straight from the manufacturer and was balking at getting them for me. Coleman Equipment has a printable schematic with parts list that shows that the needle bearing is 1.5 x 1.88 x 1.31. NAPA had one that is 1.5 x 1.88 x 1.25 and Grainger has one that is 1.8 x 1.88 x 1.0. Will a 1" one work?
 

alrman

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I have crossed the case -
D64175 bearing to a torrington JT2421
T41022 thrust washer to torrington NTA2435

These should be available from bearing suppliers

Hope this helps ;)
 

bobkmd69

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Feb 3, 2012
Messages
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Houston, Texas
Nix that difficulty with the bearings. Googled it and found a place that sold them for 11 bucks apiece. Way better than what I was getting elsewhere.
 

bobkmd69

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Feb 3, 2012
Messages
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Location
Houston, Texas
alrman-

didn't see your post until after I sent my previous. Thanks! The place I found appears to add parts ad-hoc, as the wheel bearings weren't available. Go figure.
 

jsummerland

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Mar 12, 2014
Messages
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Location
il
Hi guys I'm new to this forum I just bought a 1845c a couple weeks ago and its leaking were the linkage goes in the top of the tandem pumps and both of them I got the o ring and the packing ring for the sleeves and for the spool does anyone know if the sleeve has to be removed to get the o ring and the packing seal on or do they just slip in between the sleeve and the pump housing when I took it apart that's how it came apart the the packing in the o ring came out without taking the sleeve out but everytime I start it and drive it the packing gets pushed up out of the housing and leaks.any comment would be greatly appreciated
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Hi guys I'm new to this forum I just bought a 1845c a couple weeks ago and its leaking were the linkage goes in the top of the tandem pumps and both of them I got the o ring and the packing ring for the sleeves and for the spool does anyone know if the sleeve has to be removed to get the o ring and the packing seal on or do they just slip in between the sleeve and the pump housing when I took it apart that's how it came apart the the packing in the o ring came out without taking the sleeve out but everytime I start it and drive it the packing gets pushed up out of the housing and leaks.any comment would be greatly appreciated

Yes the sleeve needs to be removed to fit the oring & backup.
Remove the spool & get a good pair of multigrips & pull the sleeve out. They are hardened so the teeth won't mark the sleeve. The sleeve has a notch in it, that lines up with a locating pin in the bore - take note of it's location during removal - sometimes they can be a little stubborn to pull out - but they simply pull out of the housing.
On high hour machines the pump housing where the sleeve seal sits, can get a little worn.
Polish seal areas, in the sleeve & spool with some wet & dry sandpaper - I use 400g.
A little oil will want to leak out of the pump during this process, a plastic plug will contain it while the sleeve is out.
:drinkup
 
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