Need help on a Case 580C

My gauges are actually bad, the circuit board surprisingly fairly good. plastic will have to be polished to see through, etc., the normal. I feel the converter temp fairly important, under all conditions, so will replace in some manner. I can't remember which gauge I actually found but might be that one. I did a national search. Do the computer work for a diesel repair shop so access to their parts pipeline.

I'm a little confused, and have not traced the electronics, on the warning light circuit for a plugged hyd filter, etc, but just need time to sit down with the panel, schematic and think about it.

When I power-washed things here a couple of weeks ago before we pulled the injection pump, we noticed the dipper bucket cyl fitting leaking like a sieve, assume the o-ring is bad but temps dropped back to single digits and have not re-visited.

If you have a crack in the actual tubing/fitting that is a whole different bag of worms ( money pit - oh do I understand. ) We have a couple of companies here that do only hyd hoses and cyls. I would first take the fitting completely apart and see if you can specifically determine the issue. Crack in the flair, tubing or fitting block itself. Then multiple pictures and off to the hyd shop for a reasonable solution. I can't quite picture where this connection is for you in my mind so can't make a specific recommendation. I'll want to know what you find and come up with. If you can post a photo, I'm sure someone has been there before or I can figure out a fix. The tubing's flairs can crack when overtightened to the max or run loose under a lot of vibration. There is always a work around!!!!!

To me, it looks like the tube flair has been over tightened and not sealing anymore. I will try to get some pictures to post, but that might not be till next Monday.

Case part number for the tubing is D76418 were it is leaking. It's a .75 OD steel tube. There is a "A" and a "B" that join together. At those fittings, that is were it is leaking very bad. I did disconnect them to check for any cracks and didn't see any.

Anyone have any luck cutting these tubes, flaring them out again?

I will check a shop local to see if they have tubing to make new lines if I can't just use what I have. It might be cheaper to just have hoses made to replace the tubing too!

I went to the "Case" on line diagrams, and although I didn't find your specific part number, I assume it is one of the longer lines listed as #10 or #11. I don't have access, at the present, to see if those lines are double or single flairs. I'll assume double, which is very hard to do well in the field. Flaring tubing in general, brake lines specifically, never worked out really well for me over the past 40 years. Again your hyd shop would likely have that answer, but you certainly could put in a hose as a temp/permanent fix. I'm sure its been done before. I'll see a diesel tech this week that has worked on only heavy equ for the past 35 years and ask him if he has run into this kind of thing before and what he did to fix.

Two responses on another board dealing with the same issue, the "brake flair tools are set at 45degrees.

Hydraulic uses a 37 degree JIC flare. There are franchises that fabricate fluid lines. One I work at part time is "Tubes and Hoses" Perhaps there is one in your area.

If your're in the country, take it down to your friendly Grange supply or the equivalent. They will probably put the flare on for you at minimum or no cost. They will out here in the Palouse. Now having lines made up from scratch - that gets pricey.

So the answer is yes, the right shop can re-flair it for you so you don't have to replace the steel line, but will shorten it probably 1 to 1 1/2 inch.

Here's a flaring tool on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Deluxe-Flaring-Tool-37-Degree-For-AN-Fittings-/261405049209

Ron, I got the CD in. Thanks, it's already been a great help.

$100 for that tool? I'm going to talk with my local shop that makes up my hoses. I'm sure then can flair the ends.

I pulled it apart again today. No cracks. It looks like its just leaking thru the threads.

Your Welcome. Glad I could help. Good luck on the repairs

Ron

Got another problem yesterday. LOL One of the stabilizers lower pin backed out. The pin went towards the inside/tire. Also, I lost the bushing for the outside. How in the world that happen? Oh well. Got to looking at it and I will just try to remove the other bushing in the inter hole that is not used. If that doesn't work, guess I will have to buy a new one.

The good new is that I'm almost finished throwing trees in the area I been working. Just have to finish stacking them to burn. Bad thing is that another cold front has hit us. The last two days were hitting in the upper 70'sF. This morning it is back in the low 30's F with a 20+ MPH wind. WET! My pond has been overflowing and my yard is so wet, that one has to wear rubber boots.

Now I'm sure y'all guys up north had enough winter. I know I have. LOL

Oh, tomorrow is Mardi Gras here. This old man is planning on staying home. Will be to cold and wet!

Update on those steel lines. I did talk to my local shop. They can't reflair them. Case wants well over $200 for those two lines. So what I did was pulled them both, clean the fittings real good. Then I mixed a batch of JB weld epoxy steel and applied that and bolted them together. I did that Wednesday after getting home from the hospital for my weekly infusion. After doing that, I started feeling real bad and had to lay down. Yesterday early morning, I had to return back to the hospital, feeling that bad. Feeling a bit better this morning though.

If the line leaks after this, I can take it to my local shop and they will weld the two lines together. The only reason I see as to why there is a joint there is so one can replace just part of the line(top section) that feeds the extended hoe hose. If that doesn't work, I could have a hydraulic hose made up for that section which would work too and would be less then half the price of the steel lines.

I have replace several steel lines with hoses - that is what I would do. If you need a flaring tool, check out Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts to see if they have a loaner tool. That has saved me a lot of money!

Why didn't I think of that. LOL Thanks. I did put that line to the test and it held only to find a new leak. One of the boom lift cylinders had a cut in it's side. To me, it looks like the PO had let a pin back out the boom that rubbed on the cylinder tube, putting a small crack in it. Broke out the welding equipment and ran a bead. It's holding so far.

Didn't get a chance to see if I could get that other stabilizer bushing free. Just wasn't up to it feeling like crap. Maybe tomorrow.

Got on the hoe for a little seat time today. No big leaks. Still have to do something on the stabilizer bushings soon.

Got back from my doctors appointment and was feeling good. So I stopped and picked up some 3/4" all thread and some big washers. Made a tool to pull one of the extra inside bushings on the stabilizer. Had to disconnect the ram from the stabilizer leg and then I had to remove that. The tool worked great along with the right size pipe to fit. Couple bumps, the bushing came out. The tool I made just pulls the bushing back in.

For the outside bushing, I had to order that one along with a couple caps. I guess one just grinds out the old caps and welds the new ones back on. Anybody ever do that? I am planning on using the pin to keep it bore sighted. I will check to see if there is anything in the shop manual.

OK, got the new outside bushing in yesterday, Had to grind around were it slips into place to get it to fit in. Once I did that, I put the pin in place. Then I had to weld a few passes all around to build up a new lip. Worked like a charm.

Next thing I will tackle is the control valves to repack all them. Any tips? I saw were people are making a tool, but didn't see any pictures of it. Can someone post a picture of it?

Did a real good one yesterday. Was moving big root balls with the loader hanging with chains. As I was moving one, I crossed a deep rut which swung one back into my radiator, pushing it into the fan. Great, have to weld the front grill back together. Crack that in half. Hoping a shop can repair the radiator. If not, aftermarket best price shipped is going to cost $400+. OUCH!

I would move the stumps I dug out the same way with a chain because I could not get them to stay in the bucket. Lack of experience using a backhoe I guess. It never ends fixing them.

Ron

I always get a stump into the bucket as far as it will go and then chain it to the bucket. A lot of them were so big I had to roll the bucket into the dump position, otherwise I couldn't even lift them. Doing it that way the stump will not swing freely and destroy a radiator. There have been times when I clamped them in the backhoe to move them.

Hine sight is a b-t-h. LOL

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