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What skid steer needs to have a jack to raise the cab to access components?

Grit

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Nov 23, 2013
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Lindale, Tx
I've just about decided I can get by with a wheeled skid. I have read where New Holland requires a cab jack to lift the cab for access? Is this true for all of the skid manufactures or does this just apply to New Holland's? I know for sure their older versions (LS?) needed a jack, but I'm not sure about the newer L series. I was interested in a New Holland L190. I have read they are like $800.00 plus? :eek:

Also, does New Holland come with pilot controls? And if so, when did they start making them? And would a grapple be difficult to run with a New Holland? How would it differ running a grapple with a New Holland vs ,say, a Cat? I would have a root grapple on it 98% of the time.

I appreciate all the help. I have been back and forth with this like forever now, lol. I'm getting there, though, and do appreciate all the help you can give me.

Thanks!

PS I'm limited to Cat, Deere and New Holland as I don't have any other dealer support for any other machine in my area.
 
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Mobiltech

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cat has never needed a jack, they use gas shock assist with a lock in the up position.
Cat was first to have joysticks . All cats are joystick operated.
I think to get joystick in any other brand you need to go fairly late model.
 

KSSS

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New Holland started pilots (which is what I believe you are referring to when talking about joysticks) in 06. There would be no difference in running a grapple with a NH or any other machine. The longer wheel base on the NH allows for a somewhat better ride and perhaps a better ROC if your moving a lot of material with a grapple. The Deere and the older NH have about the same lifting geometry. I did not know NH required a jack to lift the cab. CASE on many models prior to the latest had a no tool cab lift system. You rotate two locking levers and pull the cab over the front wheels.
 

Grit

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Thank you for the replies. I would have to do most of the work/maintenance myself so would like easy access to the underside of cab. I don't even know what's down under there and don't know if I really need access to that area or not. I know there is a place in the rear, too. Is that where all the filters are? And what components are under the cab?

I just read where folks with the LS series New Hollands were having to either borrow or buy the jacks for the cabs. Some people had figured out a way to do it with a chain hoist and come along.

The New Hollands seems to be a better buy than the others, used. The Cats seem to be just out of my range. It would be nice if I could find a decent NH L90, but I just need to better understand about the cab and whether I need access to the area or not.

Hey appreciate the help once again. I hope I'm not getting on any nerves.
 

frogfarmer

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You will want access to the area under the cab. All kinds of debris can accumulate not to mention the ocassional need to service components. I do not use the jack for my New Holland skids because I have other equipment that can lift and tilt the cab. To be honest I havent "needed" to tilt the cab that I can remember but it does make some services much easier. Looking at the link to the machine on Machinery Trader it is a very nice machine. I havent looked closely at the L190 but it should be a solid machine. If I were going to spend 30K on a new to me machine it would have tracks instead of tires.
 

CRAFT

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cat has never needed a jack, they use gas shock assist with a lock in the up position.
Cat was first to have joysticks . All cats are joystick operated.
I think to get joystick in any other brand you need to go fairly late model.

You are thinking Excavators ….. Not Skidsteers ……. Cat got into the Skidsteer way late compared to all of the other big players ….. Case I believe was the first to have full hand controls when Bcat and the others still used foot & hand control combo's …..
 

Grit

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Thank you, frogfarmer. Do you think the asking price is fair for a wheeled machine with enclosed rops, under 700+ hrs and '08 model? Of course I am always looking to talk that price down if I can.

I too would love a track machine, but my wallet just won't allow it. This will be for private property use. I will not be making any profits so trying to keep operating costs down.

Thank you for your reply!
 
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Mobiltech

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Nope. I'm for sure talking Skid Steers. Cat has always had joystick controls. As far as I know they were the first with full pilot controls
 

Grit

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Still looking to get some opinions on that L90 machine in the link I provided. I was planning on looking at it tomorrow if I got enough positive feedback. I'm relying on your expertise! Is it worth looking at?

I noticed the bucket seems to NOT match the age of the machine. Don't know why.
 
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KSSS

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I am not a NH owner, but I would say that a decent deal for you on this machine would be 25-27K. I would not sweat the bucket. It sounds like the guy trades pretty often as I do. I will run a bucket through several machines to save having to buy a bucket on a new machine. When a bucket starts to get worn out or bent up I will trade the bucket with a machine that is getting replaced. The machine looks well taken care of. The foam filled rear tires look like they squat a bit on the rear where all the weight is. It is loosing some ground clearance, perhaps may not be an issue for you but it doesn't look right. When it comes time to replace those tires I would go with a set of Hulks either in 12X16.5 or you can put the larger 14's on that machine. It could be speced from the factory either way. The larger tires give you some additional floatation. The L-4 or 5's (Hulk type tire)cost more but well worth it. You don't have high flow so as long as you don't want to run a mulcher, planer, or other high flow attachments you should be all right. I believe the gpm on the aux. flow should be around 22 gpm.
 

Acivil

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My Deere CT322 has a gas shock system of some sort... it worked at first, but 1200 hrs in, and 3 or 4 cab lifts later, it no longer works. Also, the closed cab shroud configuration makes it virtually impossible to lift the cab if the bucket is not raised, which poses a pretty serious problem when something keeps the machine from being operational, and the cab needs to be raised to fix it. I have no experience with New Holland, but my mechanic swears they are the best skid steer.
 

KSSS

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Nope. I'm for sure talking Skid Steers. Cat has always had joystick controls. As far as I know they were the first with full pilot controls

I think the misunderstanding is the term "joystick". CASE has been hand controls since the beginning, which is a joystick especially when compared to the hand/foot controls of the other machines available for decades. The hyd pilot controls were first brought to the market by Takeuchi I believe. Bobcat has had hand controls for years as well, but they went to EH without ever using hyd pilot controls as did Deere. CAT started out with hyd pilots and now EH on the larger platforms. CASE went from mech servo, to pilots to EH.

So when generic term like "joystick" are used it means different things to different people.
 

Grit

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KSSS, thanks a bunch. That's what I was looking for. Lots of useful information and I appreciate that.

I did noticed the tires and that one being low. I would definitely put new ones on if I decided to purchase it. I would assume the loaded tires didn't affect the drive train in that short of hrs, I would hope. I had read that they can do that.

And thanks for the info on the type tires. That was actually my next question and you already had it covered! I'll need some that will work fairly well in a compacted to semi compacted sand. I have a lot of pines that drop needles and there are an equal amount of hardwoods dropping leaves onto the floor. So there is a bed of pine needles and leaves with sandy loam just beneath. I definitely need the floatation down in my bottoms, but will steer clear of that until completely dried up.

I have had to compromise on some things and I will not be able to do some of the things the track machine can do. Well, I can, I just have to wait for the right time. I have a slight slope to my property (less than 9 degrees) and some of it is flat as well. I'm pretty sure I can make this machine work.

I know you said you weren't a NH owner, but do you or anyone else know some problems or issues these machines might have? Or problems I may want to look for when I go and look at it?

Thanks again for all the help!
 

durallymax

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New Holland started pilots (which is what I believe you are referring to when talking about joysticks) in 06. There would be no difference in running a grapple with a NH or any other machine. The longer wheel base on the NH allows for a somewhat better ride and perhaps a better ROC if your moving a lot of material with a grapple. The Deere and the older NH have about the same lifting geometry. I did not know NH required a jack to lift the cab. CASE on many models prior to the latest had a no tool cab lift system. You rotate two locking levers and pull the cab over the front wheels.

Until the L200/Alpha series NH had the entire boom attached to the cab. This is why expensive jacks were needed if you wanted to tilt the cab. With the L200 series they moved the boom to the frame which is why they lost the access to the engine and such.

As you mention John Deere was the same early on. Later on Deere moved the boom off of the cab but retained engine access. They did this by basically putting a big roll bar behind the cab for the boom to attach to and the cab pivoted on that bar. The new machines today use this design as do a few previous generations.

Thank you for the replies. I would have to do most of the work/maintenance myself so would like easy access to the underside of cab. I don't even know what's down under there and don't know if I really need access to that area or not. I know there is a place in the rear, too. Is that where all the filters are? And what components are under the cab?

I just read where folks with the LS series New Hollands were having to either borrow or buy the jacks for the cabs. Some people had figured out a way to do it with a chain hoist and come along.

The New Hollands seems to be a better buy than the others, used. The Cats seem to be just out of my range. It would be nice if I could find a decent NH L90, but I just need to better understand about the cab and whether I need access to the area or not.

Hey appreciate the help once again. I hope I'm not getting on any nerves.

We used to run all LS170 NH SSL's and I never saw the need to tilt the cab ever. With all of the panels removed inside you can access everything. Maybe tilting the cab made drive motor replacement easier, not sure never had to do one. It doesn't sound like you are going to be wearing yours out any time soon so I wouldn't sweat tilting the cab. Maybe by then you can pick the jacks up cheap used somewhere or make your own.

The LS and L100 series require the jacks they are a similar platform. Basically as long as you have the boom in the air, the engine is very easy to work on. Remove the side panels and you have all of the access to all of your filters , starter, alternator, etc. Radiator can be easily removed if you need more access to the "front" of the engine. Nothing you do for regular maintenance will be under the cab except for adjusting the controls which you will not have to do with a pilot machine.

The seat flips up in the NH machines so you can get at a lot of the stuff under the cab, if you need more access the seat and other panels in the cab can be removed in a few minutes. Half of the machine comes apart with a 9/16" socket. You will be able to replace any hose and most of the componenets without ever thinking about raising the cab. Is it as nice to work on as some other machines? Not always but its not bad IMO.

You are thinking Excavators ….. Not Skidsteers ……. Cat got into the Skidsteer way late compared to all of the other big players ….. Case I believe was the first to have full hand controls when Bcat and the others still used foot & hand control combo's …..

Case didn't use full joystick pilot controls early on, that is what he was referring to where both the drive and boom functions are pilot operated.

Still looking to get some opinions on that L90 machine in the link I provided. I was planning on looking at it tomorrow if I got enough positive feedback. I'm relying on your expertise! Is it worth looking at?

I noticed the bucket seems to NOT match the age of the machine. Don't know why.

Bucket means nothing, we do the same as KSSS, trade every couple years/2k hrs but usually send the worst bucket with the trade ins. All the dealer wants is some sort of a bucket because just having a bucket makes the machine worth a lot more when they are selling it, the condition of the bucket effects resale very little. If you want a nicer bucket, they will surely work a deal with you as a lot of dealers want used buckets they can put on used machines that did not get traded with a bucket.

The L190 you linked to looks nice and clean. Thats not many hours for an 08. KSSS would have a better idea of what is "normal" for hours in the construction and landscaping industry, but for ag 1000hrs+ per year is common. I would say that L190 was not used very hard at all and has a lot of life left in it. I haven't priced new NH's in awhile nor have I priced one of that size but new you would be looking at 40-45k for a comparable machine easily.


If you do get it, look into relocating the hydraulic coupler block. We had a lot of issues with those. They are mounted to the attachment plate and get corroded very easily. We do operate in manure which is much more corrosive than dirt and such so you may not have the issue, but we did a lot so we would move the solenoids and valvebody underneath the cab inside the right hand fender and just run new hoses along the boom up to the ram. We make all of our own hoses so it wasn't hard to do, but if you are wondering what it costs I would say to budget a few hundred bucks, worth it though if you save one solenoid.
 

old-iron-habit

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The New Holland seat lifts and locks in the up position for open access under it. Cab tilting is not necessary for normal maintenance.
 

durallymax

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I think the misunderstanding is the term "joystick". CASE has been hand controls since the beginning, which is a joystick especially when compared to the hand/foot controls of the other machines available for decades. The hyd pilot controls were first brought to the market by Takeuchi I believe. Bobcat has had hand controls for years as well, but they went to EH without ever using hyd pilot controls as did Deere. CAT started out with hyd pilots and now EH on the larger platforms. CASE went from mech servo, to pilots to EH.

So when generic term like "joystick" are used it means different things to different people.

Yes this is the big issue, misunderstanding terms. I wish more dealers and salespeople could get properly educated so they can educate their customers.

People often associate "pilot" with the ISO pattern, but "pilot" is just a style of control. Low pressure pilot hydraulic system operate by joystick servos. You can theoretically plumb it to control the machine however you want, but since most OEM's offered it in the ISO pattern, the generalization of "Pilot" meaning ISO pattern happened.

Then theres the term "joystick" as you mention. To me a joystick is simply that, it has equal travel in all directions and pivots on a fixed point. Many of the Case controls were not this way as the drive sticks were still "manual".

I think the only thing that has not caused confusion is EH. Everybody knows what that is, maybe because everybody seems to equally hate EH. Deere now offers electric foot controls for those who want them.

I think the next few years will see more people going to either H or ISO pattern since most machines are all going to EH controls. Bobcat seems to be putting up the biggest fight but that could just be my area too. Deere offering EH foot controls is great, but much like operating H pattern on joysticks when you are used to older Case controls, I think people will hate it and just learn a different pattern. Just my speculation though.

KSSS, thanks a bunch. That's what I was looking for. Lots of useful information and I appreciate that.

I did noticed the tires and that one being low. I would definitely put new ones on if I decided to purchase it. I would assume the loaded tires didn't affect the drive train in that short of hrs, I would hope. I had read that they can do that.

And thanks for the info on the type tires. That was actually my next question and you already had it covered! I'll need some that will work fairly well in a compacted to semi compacted sand. I have a lot of pines that drop needles and there are an equal amount of hardwoods dropping leaves onto the floor. So there is a bed of pine needles and leaves with sandy loam just beneath. I definitely need the floatation down in my bottoms, but will steer clear of that until completely dried up.

I have had to compromise on some things and I will not be able to do some of the things the track machine can do. Well, I can, I just have to wait for the right time. I have a slight slope to my property (less than 9 degrees) and some of it is flat as well. I'm pretty sure I can make this machine work.

I know you said you weren't a NH owner, but do you or anyone else know some problems or issues these machines might have? Or problems I may want to look for when I go and look at it?

Thanks again for all the help!

On the topic of tires, it looks to me like that machine has 12" tires on it. When looking into a lot of the other tires, check out the Bibsteel AT from Michelin. I love them on our SSL's, we run a lot of hours on concrete and gravel and the wear life on them is outstanding as is the soft cushy ride. What you would probably like most is the puncture resistance, being a steel belted radial they really do resist punctures much better than fabric bias tires. I've fixed on puncture between the two sets I have on our SSLs. The 12" set has just over 1200hrs on it now and the 10" set is around 500hrs. Traction is very good. If I had to criticize them it would be the bead protection, its not as good as the factory Cat tires (Titan) but honestly I'll fix bent rims any day over punctures. Bent rim just requires a smack with the hammer, no dismount needed. Pricing wise they are only about 100-200 more than a high quality Bias and you will get your money back in tread life and downtime if you run a lot of hours. In your case with limited hours it may not be worth the investment which is understandable.
 

Grit

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Lindale, Tx
durallymax, thanks for all that great info. You guys answered more questions than I ever thought would be answered. I'm definitely taking a trip tomorrow. Hopefully he'll still have it available. I have looked a long time for the right machine. They are SO hard to come by in this area. Lots of junk and they think they're sitting on gold. I haven't figured that one out yet.

Anyway, I do appreciate all the help as I never could have known enough about it to know whether it was worth pursuing or not.

Thanks!
 

Grit

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Lindale, Tx
One more question for you guys. Do tires on these machines already come mounted on the rims or do you have to mount them? For some reason I thought you bought them with tire already on rim. Maybe I read that wrong?
 

KSSS

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One more question for you guys. Do tires on these machines already come mounted on the rims or do you have to mount them? For some reason I thought you bought them with tire already on rim. Maybe I read that wrong?
'
Only if they are the airless tires do they come mounted. If you stay with the size that is on the machine any 12X16.5 tire will mount on those rims. If you go to the larger tires you will need different rims.

I am not aware of anything in particular with the L190 to look for, especially at such low hours.
 
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