case 580

Old iron, isn't it grand as to job security!! My old stuff eats up my time but is still cheaper than buying new/newer. I also get good practice for repairs.

Its a learning experience. I wish it would stop raining so I can get back to work on it. I'm ready to take it home and play in the mud.

Update.... Finally.. What happens when a automotive technician pulls the rear tires to do brakes?


Nothing there's no brakes!!

Polishing ramps and replacing the balls and springs.

"Update.... Finally.. What happens when a automotive technician pulls the rear tires to do brakes?"

Thats funny! I worked as a mechanic at a GM dealer for about 20 years before switching careers a few years ago.
When I purchased my 580C, the PO told me it needed some brake work and I remember wondering if I'd need a engine crane to get the brake drums off! I crawled around under it and hmm... no brake drums, this should be interesting.

I plan to do mine when I have some down time this spring after the snow is gone and its too muddy to move around on the property.

How do they work? it looks like the band stops the drum and if the carrier is still rotating it causes the balls to ride up the ramps pushing the disc into the rotor?

Keeps those pics coming!

That puzzled me as well, at first. I looked at the schematics and couldn't wrap my head around it. I saw bands and 2 disks. Not until I pulled it a part did it kick in. I've worked on drum brakes, air brakes, disk brakes, band brakes and even Yanmar brakes. And this was nothing like it. I am no means an expert at this but here is my theory on the 580 brake operation. On each side of the differential (not in the rear end) you have 2 stub shafts out of each side of the tractor. These shafts are what would be the equivalent to axle shafts in a car. The differential pinions turn the gears on these shafts. These shafts pass thru the the carrier plates (inner brake housing) and the brake drum/disk assembly splines to these shafts. The drum/disk assembly consists of 1 half an inner plate with 1 dish riveted to 1 side and the other side has 4 ramped pockets, the other half id the drum with a disk riveted to 1 side and 4 ramped pockets. These 2 haves are held together with 2 springs with 4 large steel ball bearing in each pocket. This assembly splines on the stubs shafts. then you have the outer brake housing. The outer brake housing has 2 bands (think brakes shoes turned inside out) These bands are anchored with a removable pin on 1 end and springs on the other. These bands are applied by pulling a brake rod that has linkages pined to the end of each band. When applied the bands apply pressure the the drum which is held while the inner plate continues to rotate. As it rotates the balls force the plates apart as they ramp up. As the 2 haves separate the disks on each side apply pressure on the carrier plate and the outer brake housing. Think of a disk brake setup in reverse. The rotor is stationary and the pads rotate. I am sure one of the experts here can better explain. I hope I didn't confuse you more than help. I will keep posting as I continue my journey.

rickw said:

We had a international that had a stuck clutch. We could put in low gear and crank it and it would start and drive. I just drove it around awhile with the bush hog going and it finally released. deisel may be harder to get started in gear though

Click to expand...

Yeah, maybe. LOL

Good luck with that Case, you'll need it. Watch your knuckles.

Hi chase, the brakes on my Allis farm tractors are like these, they could not get enough stopping power mechanically so added the advantage of leverage, the band only slows the free runner drum so the balls can ramp in and compress the brake discs. Seems simple enough but at that they will glaze pretty easily and stopping power will degrade pretty fast as they age. Older two ton trucks and some earlier car parking/emergency brakes used the reversed band style brake lining too.

Looks like good work so far, you will do fine with the old girl keeping her at the top of the game.