My new toy- Case 580C

I want to introduce myself and my new machine to the forum.

I picked up a 1980 Case 580C from Craig's list a couple of weeks ago for $9200. I think it was an OK deal with the heated cab and the extend-a-hoe + no sales tax or auction fees and it was local, so transportation costs were minimal. The tires are in good shape, the backhoe hoses and front bucket cutting edge have been recently replaced. It came with an extra set of stabilizer pads with the rubber inserts, Owners, Parts, and Service manuals

Its the first time owning such a thing and I'm not quite sure what I've got myself into.
It starts easy (2 or 3 revolutions stone cold or warmed up), doesn't leak or smoke, and except a few issues the controls seem to operate as they should.
The right brake doesn't work as well as the left and the differential lock is stuck in the "UP" position. I don't really want to stomp on it and have it stuck engaged.
Right now I'm using to move snow, so I probably make a list of things and make repairs in the spring.

I got it stuck in the mud playing around with it a few days ago, man it will make a mess of things quick when pulling its self out.
I was driving along in 3rd gear and got to a soft spot. It sunk down in the mud and just kinda slowed down and stopped moving forward. It wasn't spinning the tires, it just bogged down and stalled out at 1700 rpm. I shifted to 2nd and that gave it the power to spin the tires, but it was too late. It did give me a chance to get used to the foot swing Case controls- a good half hour operation getting it out.

Should I be able to spin the tires over in 3rd or is 3rd and 4th gears more for on the road transportation and 1st and 2nd for doing work?

Welcome to HEF jackleg. :drinkup

You're not going to have a lot of torque at the wheels in 3rd and 4th, they're more roading gears. At some point you need to repair that diff lock, probably just moisture inside the diff lock case that's got things rusty and seized up. With diff lock always engaged it won't turn tight worth a flip and you'll excessively wear rear tires.

BTW, nice looking machine.

what he said... willie knows hoes. sharp looker you have too

as far as the mess goes weve all been there and done that. nice looking machine .trevor b

Welcome to HEF jackleg!
We only got extenderhoes here from the D model, so it always looks unusual, for me, to see a C (&B) with one fitted. Does look tidy.
The revs you mention at stall sound a little low & could indicate a problem with engine power (fuel) or a bad convertor (assuming you have power shuttle)

At stall, 4th gear & brakes applied (or in a pile of dirt or against a tree) the revs should drop to about 2000rpm.

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, the diff lock is rusted up, its not engaged, cause is turns good w/out tearing up the ground. I'm going to put that off until spring when I go through the brakes.

I looked into the low stall speed issue today and think I found the problem. with the engine off, I put a brick on the accelerator pedal and looked at the injection pump linkage. The No Load governed speed screw (Hi speed) is about 3/8" from contacting the stop on the pump boss. basically, with the pedal at full throttle, the pump is only at 75% throttle. The hand throttle gives it a little more, but not much. The pedal has a lot of slop, I'll have to look into why before making adjustments.
Service manual section 3052 shows running the engine with the throttle rod disconnected at the pump and cycling the lever between the 2 stops to check the engine speeds, (I suspect I'll get correct speeds) then reconnect the linkage and adjust the hand throttle, and then the accelerator pedal.
I won't get a chance to tinker with it until the end of the week, I'll post the results then.
Thanks

jackleg, I am kinda new here too, but this is a great forum , so welcome from the newly welcomed. older case backhoes are the best, simple, strong and very reliable. this is coming from a long line of deere folks. the little case engines are indestructible, and good on fuel to boot. they are made of good iron they don't break-up like the old fords seem to, they are plenty strong, they will pick up way more than they have any business being hooked to, and parts are very cheap [specially on ebay] and they are lightweight, this is very important in south mississipp!!! Dad would only buy JD for years, he bought 4 or 5 new 410s and 510s in the 70s and 80s ,he got a wore out 580b in about 91 and we haven't had anything else since presently a 580c and I got a 480e ,they are fine little machines , other than the brakes , which suck- that's the weakest part of them IMHO. hope you get as good of service as we have

I found the stop for the hand throttle up under the dash and got it set to allow the injector pump to go full open. I had to stand on my head to get to it- not much fun, but it will run at 2100 rpm at full throttle in 4th with the breaks applied now. So that's good news. The foot throttle adjustment is all rusted up and I can only get about 1700 rpm with it. I'm going to put off fixing that until Spring when I do the breaks and diff lock.

The loader bucket had 2 egg shaped bosses on the top. I'd like to get pallet forks for it at some point. Are these bosses for attaching forks or are they for something else?

Thanks

jackleg said:

The loader bucket had 2 egg shaped bosses on the top. I'd like to get pallet forks for it at some point. Are these bosses for attaching forks or are they for something else?

Click to expand...

They look like chaining points, & not solid enough for lifting, to tie the machine down for transporting.

You will find most tractors as this have large eye plate hooks welded to the top lip of the bucket, they are for the bar style quick drop forks. Buddy of mine got a set with the Super E he just picked up.

580c

Hey, Just wanted to comment, as everyone else has said, nice clean machine, that bucket I don't believe is original, to my knowledge they didn't come with those bosses on top, nothing wrong with that probably a better bucket! Ok the brakes suck on these machines as you will see, maintaining them constantly. the diff lock also is something else to consider, I would take it a part clean it up but don't hook it back up, they are hard on your differential if you get stuck just push yourself out with the bucket, not trying to bring you down on these machines, I love the one we have, it has the Extend-hoe too , man the work it has done, just my 2 cents worth,, DW

The PO did say that he replaced the loader bucket. I diddnt think tp ask why.
I could not get the loader pins to take grease. I unbolted them and took them out to clean the grease holes- all good now.
Thanks.for all the comments and input. I tried to buy the best machine that I could afford (I kinda broke the budget slightly on this one) The prices all seem relevant to condition. The ones I saw around here for 5K looked like they would take that again before they would be usable. Less than 5K and theys say "you dont really need reverse" or somthing lile that.
Ill still pobably end up going all through this one anyway!

Basically a twin to our machine. Looks great, good luck with it!

Welcome to HEF. :drinkup That's a nice machine!

REf- Brakes on 580

Hello newbie here -does anyone know a lot about these brakes on 580 c-I`m riviting new discs on drums this week and installing new slave and master cyclinders-Not sure about how to set these up and what oil to use in brake lines Thanks

DOT 3 fluid.
I havent done my brakes yet so other than following the steps in the service manual I dont know

That 580E looks like a full load for that truck and trailer!

Is a Super E, and it was quite a load but well handled. Old 7.3 did not care nor the trans but the springs sure squatted. Thinking right at 12,800 with the option stuff on board, only had to move it 18 miles.

Hi

Brake fluid is DOT 3

Ron