N-14 cummins starting problems HELP!

This is a N-14 red top select 435 hp. Problem started about 3 years ago . If truck sat with out being run for more than 3 days it was hard to start. Engine would crank over for about a minute before starting, and if it gets below 50 degrees it won't start unless I plug in enging block heater. Now it has gotten progressively worse. I have changed fuel filters every oil change, new fuel line from tank to ecm. I don't see any leaks anywhere. And now everyday it starts hard. Sometimes 5 or 6 cycles of cranking it over for about 30 sec each cycle then waiting for about a minute and starting again. When I take fuel filter off it is about 2 inches down in filter. It acts like it is not getting fuel. It won't pop or anything, just like you run it out of fuel. Now what I have discovered is if i take plug out of intake manifold and pour about a 1/4 cup of diesel in the intake it will fire up in about 3 seconds of cranking and stay running. Can't figure it out, hoping someone can help me figure this out without a huge shop bill of someone parts changing. Please any help would greatly appreciated.

I know this question sound's odd, but when you shut the engine off, does it shut off quick, or labor a bit before it finally stops? The reason I ask is you may have some leaky injector seals.... Gramps

I'm with gpa. If its worse under 50 degrees I'd say you've got an injector issue. One drippy injector could drain the fuel rail. Does it have the filter mounted right on the back of the fuel pump?

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The starting place for an N14 is to check /replace the check valve in the fuel cooling plate. Step two is use a Baldwin fuel filter. (the Wix/Carquest/NAPA filters are the worst. Donaldsons are a problem also) The fuel plate can also crack and suck air, but you'll generally get a loss of power also. Your problem may well be an injector or something else, but the check valve and filter are the place to start.

grandpa: Engine shuts right off no laboring at all.
Dmax: Filter is mouted on back of pump.
wilko: Where is check valve and cooling plate? Napa filter is what I have on there. I have no loss of power, idles smooth not rough, no smoke out of stack. What is problem with filters? Do they not seal correctly and let air in?

Thank you all for your input so far.

To who ever can help me fix this problem I will send them 1/2 gallon of pure VT Maple syrup.

The fuel is sucked through these filters as opposed to being under pressure in a cat or detroit primary. Its common for the filter to not be full. I'm assuming the filter has been changed a few times but if not that's def the place to start. Like wilko said go with a baldwin (or fleetguard ff1000) and report back. Always start with the cheap/easy fixes!

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02Dmax said:

The fuel is sucked through these filters as opposed to being under pressure in a cat or detroit primary. Its common for the filter to not be full. I'm assuming the filter has been changed a few times but if not that's def the place to start. Like wilko said go with a baldwin (or fleetguard ff1000) and report back. Always start with the cheap/easy fixes!

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First thing I am going to do is get rid of the napa filter and replace with baldwin.

The cooling plate is behind the ECM, the check valve is in the upper left corner. Start with the filter.

If you want to go with a quality filter to remove that from the equation then my first suggestion would be Donaldson. Also replace the seals on the filter housing if they are separate. I wouldn't use NAPA or Fleetguard at any price.

Still saying injector seal's..... I need the maple syrup

Fleetguard filters are made by Cummins. Very good quality.
Wix/NAPA also good quality.

Ya I've used Wix everyday for the last 12 years and have never had an issue. Fleetguard is what they come with from the factory. Everyone's entitled to their opinion and what experience they've had.

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ValleyFirewood said:

Fleetguard filters are made by Cummins. Very good quality.
Wix/NAPA also good quality.

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And my experience with Fleetguard is universally bad, as posted here previously. Just because Fleetguard is made by Cummins means nothing to me, it's how they perform in a machine that counts.

NAPA filters are made to a price. No more need be said. They're cheap for a reason.

Baldwin filters don't bleed out. The others do, with Wix/Carquest/NAPA being the worst.

The Wix/Carquest/napa filters won't run on either of my 3304s, they split up the seam or blow the gasket out after a few days; and they seem to collapse internally on my Komatsu.

A little update: I put a new filter on Baldwin this time and no change. About a week and a half ago it got down to 25 at night for a couple of hours, not a big deal had it plugged in . F...in thing wouldn't start!:cussing It didn't turn over well either. I sad screw it went and purchased 4 new batteries from Interstate. Put them in and by the time I put them in the truck started right up. I figured that the sun beating on it was the cause. I knew I had work the next day , so I plugged it in to be sure it would start. Next morning I get up walk out the door and notice the cord was not plugged in to the outdoor outlet on house! Now I am fumming cause I know it won't start cause it was now 15 degrees this morning. I got in and talked to her, told her she is a good truck, etc. etc. . It fired right up! About 5 seconds of cranking. It's never turned over this fast, even when new batteries were put in 3 years ago. All week it has been starting fine and it has been cold every morning. Those last batch of batteries must have been no good from the get go.:beatsme
I want to thank every one for their input and help. This site is the best thing since pull tops on cans of ravioli. Sorry no syrup reward, no one mentioned batteries as possible cause. But if somebody wants to purchase some, this is my friends web site.
papajohnssugarshack.com

Always nice to hear a success story. I've learned to take any win I can get and file the information away for future reference.

Glad to hear that you got the ol' girl working!

wilko said:

The starting place for an N14 is to check /replace the check valve in the fuel cooling plate.

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Regarding Wilko's suggestion of the check valve, I have to clean mine out every once in a while. You remove the U-shaped fuel line that goes from the check valve to the filter. Then I believe the check valve takes a 1 1/4" deep socket to remove it from the ECM cooler. I have always found black pieces of plastic stuck in mine. Not sure if that's something out of the cooler, or if it's coming from the fuel tank for some reason.

If you remove the fuel filter and hear a sucking or gurgling sound, the fuel is likely draining back into the fuel tank because something is caught in that check valve. Don't even bother trying to put on a new filter until you get the check valve cleaned.

FYI, I've never had to replace the check valve. Just pull it out and fish out the debris.

Andrew

No Maple Syrple...........