How many hours are you getting out of your oil changes?

joispoi · Sep 19, 2013

How many hours are you getting out of your engine oil?

I've been changing the oil in my mini every 100 hrs. However, the last 20 hrs leading up to the 100 hour mark, the oil seems to be thinner. On cold starts, the oil pressure doesn't come up fast enough to keep the oil pressure switch from shutting down the machine- second crank the oil pressure comes up and the machine runs fine. (This may be also be due to an adjustment needed to the OPS.)

What is your oil change interval?

Nige · Sep 19, 2013

How does your 100 hour change compare with what the manufacturer recommends..?
What brand and weight of oil are you using..? What does the manual recommend..?

joispoi · Sep 19, 2013

Nige said:
How does your 100 hour change compare with what the manufacturer recommends..?
What brand and weight of oil are you using..? What does the manual recommend..?

I'm using 15w40 which is what is indicated on the engine sticker. Last oil change I bought Shell semi-synthetic. I haven't been consistently using the same brand, but I don't recall having bought straight mineral oil for any of the changes. There's not always a big selection in the 15w40 weight and I've been buying what's available with the hopes that what's inside the jug matches the description on the outside.

I don't have the owners' manual. However, I was told every 100 hrs for the engine oil. If someone knows differently, I'd be glad to listen.

Nige · Sep 19, 2013

You didn't mention what machine make & model of it is.

Also working without some sort of manufacturer's recommendation is always likely to be a bit hit & miss. No offence intended but "I was told" doesn't cut it in my department.

FMD · Sep 19, 2013

joispoi said:
I'm using 15w40 which is what is indicated on the engine sticker. Last oil change I bought Shell semi-synthetic. I haven't been consistently using the same brand, but I don't recall having bought straight mineral oil for any of the changes. There's not always a big selection in the 15w40 weight and I've been buying what's available with the hopes that what's inside the jug matches the description on the outside.
I don't have the owners' manual. However, I was told every 100 hrs for the engine oil. If someone knows differently, I'd be glad to listen.

Our JD 27 says 250 hours with an extended up to 500 hour. What do you mean with hopes of the oil inside matches up with the outside. Why would it not??

We use the CI-4 15w40 oils in our machines. We change engine oil every 250 hours or 3 months (which ever comes first) and pull a oil sample to send out to the lab. We sample all other compartments at 1000 hours and We change our other compartment oils every 2000 hours with sampling each compartment.

What gets me with excavators is that people will change thier engine oil & filter on a consistant basis, but not their hydraulic filters and oils. The hydraulic system on a excavator is the heart of the machine. Scatter a pump and the machine could very well be done. Blow an engine and you can swing a new engine easy enough. It is so hard to clean out the hydraulic system when a pump scatters. Just 2-5 micron piece can cause damage and complaints in the hydraulics.

joispoi · Sep 19, 2013

Nige said:
You didn't mention what machine make & model of it is.

Also working without some sort of manufacturer's recommendation is always likely to be a bit hit & miss. No offence intended but "I was told" doesn't cut it in my department.

volvo ec15b.

"no offence"??? lol... this isn't a girl scout forum- say what you have to say and don't be sorry about it.

joispoi · Sep 19, 2013

FMD said:
Our JD 27 says 250 hours with an extended up to 500 hour. What do you mean with hopes of the oil inside matches up with the outside. Why would it not??

We use the CI-4 15w40 oils in our machines. We change engine oil every 250 hours or 3 months (which ever comes first) and pull a oil sample to send out to the lab. We sample all other compartments at 1000 hours and We change our other compartment oils every 2000 hours with sampling each compartment.

What gets me with excavators is that people will change thier engine oil & filter on a consistant basis, but not their hydraulic filters and oils. The hydraulic system on a excavator is the heart of the machine. Scatter a pump and the machine could very well be done. Blow an engine and you can swing a new engine easy enough. It is so hard to clean out the hydraulic system when a pump scatters. Just 2-5 micron piece can cause damage and complaints in the hydraulics.

When 2 brands of oil have identical spec's listed on the jug, but one is 40% more expensive than the other, it begs the question: "Is the cheaper stuff just as good as the expensive stuff?". Either I'm optimistic about bad oil or pessimistic about good oil. I'm not sure which one, yet.

Nige · Sep 19, 2013

joispoi said:
"no offence"??? lol... this isn't a girl scout forum- say what you have to say and don't be sorry about it.

I did that once today in another thread and got my a$$ handed to me.....some people are so into scoring points instead of addressing the OP's problem it's unreal ...........

I'll have a look at some of the info you're posted and get back to you.

FMD · Sep 20, 2013

Nige said:
I did that once today in another thread and got my a$$ handed to me.....some people are so into scoring points instead of addressing the OP's problem it's unreal ...........

I'll have a look at some of the info you're posted and get back to you.

I hope it wasnt on my post with the bearings adjustment. I got THICK skin.........Differences of opinions is what makes a good forum..........

blitz138 · Sep 21, 2013

joispoi said:
When 2 brands of oil have identical spec's listed on the jug, but one is 40% more expensive than the other, it begs the question: "Is the cheaper stuff just as good as the expensive stuff?". Either I'm optimistic about bad oil or pessimistic about good oil. I'm not sure which one, yet.

Are you comparing the product data sheets? There is some valuable info in the PDS and without testing the only way you can compare 2 oils.

You mentioned you used a semi synthetic oil....synthetic is purely a marketing term, according to the law any oil thats been hydrocracked, hydrotreated, dewaxed can be considered a synthetic oil. Synthetic means it has been chemically changed from its original form, All oils go through these treatment processes. Any oil that is a PAO (type 4 oil man made from ethane gas) will say synthetic PAO. There can be a big difference. There are both good and bad engine oils that are mineral oil you just need to look at the details. Also for longer oil life you need to look for the TBN (true base number) this is the oils ability to counteract acids, the higher the TBN the longer lasting the oil.
One other big factor can be the cleanliness of the oil. Most major oils come with quit a bit of dirt in the barrel. Thats why CAT came out with there cleanliness specs for warranty.

joispoi · Sep 22, 2013

Blitz, thanks for your input. No, I haven't compared the data sheets. From what you said in your post, I have some homework to do. Thanks again.

td25c · Sep 26, 2013

Years ago we always figured 100 hours on farm equipment running in dusty conditions for an oil change. Gas burner cars & trucks 3000 miles and heavy diesel trucks 10,000 miles.Thats a good idea watching the oil pressure gauge on cold starts to get an indication if the oil is thinning as I do the same thing with my Detroit diesel engines . My dad still changes oil in the farm tractors at 100 hours and I will let the dirt moving equipment go 200 plus today as costs go up on oil.Like I said the oil pressure gauge is a great tool to help monitor oil condition and when checking oil I wipe the end of the dipstick between the fingers and if it feels a little "gritty" I change it.I never did buy in to the idea that oil was only good for a certain amout of time while setting still. I only figure off of running hours .Good luck with it joispoi.

FMD · Sep 27, 2013

td25c said:
Years ago we always figured 100 hours on farm equipment running in dusty conditions for an oil change. Gas burner cars & trucks 3000 miles and heavy diesel trucks 10,000 miles.Thats a good idea watching the oil pressure gauge on cold starts to get an indication if the oil is thinning as I do the same thing with my Detroit diesel engines . My dad still changes oil in the farm tractors at 100 hours and I will let the dirt moving equipment go 200 plus today as costs go up on oil.Like I said the oil pressure gauge is a great tool to help monitor oil condition and when checking oil I wipe the end of the dipstick between the fingers and if it feels a little "gritty" I change it.I never did buy in to the idea that oil was only good for a certain amout of time while setting still. I only figure off of running hours .Good luck with it joispoi.

Engine oil thickens as it gets older (impacted).

Also, if you are feeling grit as a indicatior to change your oil you are way too late in changing your oil.

blitz138 · Sep 27, 2013

td25c said:
Years ago we always figured 100 hours on farm equipment running in dusty conditions for an oil change. Gas burner cars & trucks 3000 miles and heavy diesel trucks 10,000 miles.Thats a good idea watching the oil pressure gauge on cold starts to get an indication if the oil is thinning as I do the same thing with my Detroit diesel engines . My dad still changes oil in the farm tractors at 100 hours and I will let the dirt moving equipment go 200 plus today as costs go up on oil.Like I said the oil pressure gauge is a great tool to help monitor oil condition and when checking oil I wipe the end of the dipstick between the fingers and if it feels a little "gritty" I change it.I never did buy in to the idea that oil was only good for a certain amout of time while setting still. I only figure off of running hours .Good luck with it joispoi.

Im trying not to be a jerk but I disagree strongly with everything you posted. Judging an oils viscosity, base number (ability to counteract acids), intact additive package, cleanliness is impossible using an oil pressure gauge. All these things can destroy oil. Oil just like anything is susceptible to oxidation, which will change the oil at a molecular level. Like FMD said when oil sheers it can gain viscosity. If its cold it will be more viscous, hot will lessen the viscosity. Feeling grit in your oil would tell me that your engine has already seen 10x the dirt/soot that it should and you are taking years off your engines life.

Any time you are going to look at extending oil changes you absolutely need to employ oil analysis.

td25c · Sep 27, 2013

Yes FMD and blitz138,I understand what your saying but what you are missing is small amounts of fuel entering the crankcase over time thins the engine oil. So buy keeping an eye on oil pressure you can judge the viscosity off the new oil change & keep an eye on it as the machine builds hours to the next oil change. As joispoi mentiond in his first post he thinks the oil is thinning.

As for checking oil in my equipment its pretty simple.

1 pull dipstick

2 wipe dipstick with thumb & index finger then feel the oil between fingers.

3 smell the oil, traces of fuel maybe?

4 If loosing coolant look if the oil is milky or even taste it .Will have somewhat of a sweet flavor if coolant in oil.

5 If all checks out slam the hood & go

Thats a field oil analysis....... Heck I thought everybody done this? If you feel ya also need a lab analysis then can also go that route.

mitch504 · Sep 27, 2013

My "Field Analysis Procedure" almost exactly mirrors TD's (except for the tasting, never thought of that one).

I think TD and I come from a slightly different world than some. Notice in his post he isn't going for extended drain intervals as you think of them, since he is changing oil at around 200 hrs. We are people who own, operate, and repair older equipment, with maybe a few helpers and a few more hinderers. If you feel the oil is thin, or gritty, you don't wait for the 200 hrs, you change it now, and find the problem.

Scrub Puller · Sep 27, 2013

Yair . . . A bit O/T but I knew a bloke who tried not own any diesel engine that had the injectors under the tappet cover.

He reckoned that reduced oil thinning problems and, if possible, he used air cooled as he reckoned a problem that was just an oil leak on a Hatz, or Deutz, or Lister, or Lister was a bigger problem on liquid cooled.

Each to his own I guess.

Cheers.

Rusty32 · Nov 4, 2013

Our oil change interval is 250-300 hours on our skid steers and 244j . We use rimula 15w40. The machines have between 6000 - 9000 hrs and never had a problem

powerjoke · Nov 4, 2013

Nige said:
I did that once today in another thread and got my a$$ handed to me.....some people are so into scoring points instead of addressing the OP's problem it's unreal ...........

I'll have a look at some of the info you're posted and get back to you.

Nige your handier than a shirt on a pocket and have gotten me outta a pinch several times.....just sayin

Pj

joispoi · Nov 14, 2013

I switched parts counters and what a difference that makes.

I brought in a "will fit" filter to a new parts store and the guy behind the counter quickly explained to me that he wouldn't sell me a filter without knowing which filter was supposed to be on the machine. The last filter I had been sold had the same dimensions, but the relief valve pressure is a mystery to me.

He also sold me a 20 L bucket of machine grade 15w-40. Not at all the same thing as automotive grade.

Call this part of continuing education.

How many hours are you getting out of your oil changes?

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