Dresser 250c track specs ?

Barky, how are things going with the 175? I couldn't respond to this thread for awhile, kept getting a database error message. Looks like it's fixed.

Glad you got the right teeth from Romac. We had good luck with them as well. Very fast service. I'm pretty sure the teeth on the 4-n-1 are different from the ones on the GP bucket.

Well I just got her to fit in the shop with only a 1/16th cut in the weather stripping. Hehe.. Good thing the grousers are worn out !

I got some ripper teeth from romac and they were close, but a bit off. I had to cut a inch off the ends of the shanks to get them on.

Ive been wanting to service it out all around but cant seem to get the time except for a little here and there.. Its annoying seeing it in the shop but not being able to tinker. I gotta do the dang paying work first! Hopefully this weekend?

I started rigging up this tank for the skid loader. I will definietly have to get it going to feed the 175. My plan was to mount it permanently on a skid and just fork it in and out of the pickup when needed. I got the 12V pump kit off ebay for 149.00. I wonder if it will hold up? B.

Nice pics and shop. Looks like you have a great place to work on it with the right tools. I guess those bolt heads won't wear any sooner than the tooth? Wondering since those don't have pins if welding a wear strip out in front of that bolt head might help slow the wearing or potential breaking.

I hear you on the lack of time. We've not accomplished as much as we'd like this year. We've only burned and buried about 2 old piles still have about 8 to go. We also have a ditch project that we may get to work on in a couple of weeks. It's probably a two day job, but between bush-hogging we may only get one day on it for now.

You'll enjoy the pump on your tank. Compared to our old manual pump, we've really enjoyed the electric one.

Yea the romac guys didn't have pins long enough to fit. They thought it would be fine to use a gr 8 bolt and weld the nut to the bolt and then weld the back sides to the tooth. I guess they would know?? Not in the pic but I did weld them up, Ill have to keep an eye on them. I got to thinking though, I have seen many bucket teeth bolted on so maybe itll work OK.?

BTW any guys that like the wix brand of filters. I ordered a filter set(8) for this machine for about 100 bucks with UPS from a place called disountfleetsupply. The hyd filter was like 70 bucks alone from the local jobbers and they had it for 30 bucks. I checked the other numbers and all were pretty good price wise.. 20 years ago I used to sell wix filters and they were on the better end back then. B

Hey Boone, have you ever dropped the starter? I noticed I have a fair leak at the mounting point between the starter and the bellhousing. Im wondering if theres a funny square Oring in there or maybe just a gasket. Im thinking when I change out the trans oil it would be a good time to fix it. B

Hi Barky, congrats on your new2u loader.

I like wix filters, from what I can find out they are one of the better manf.

I was looking at your pump setup. I used to do the same thing, except using a hand pump in a barrel and had the setup in the box of my p/u truck. All was good until I found out that using that barrel will get water into the barrel guaranteed. What happens is that during hot temperatures the air pressure inside the barrel forces air out of the bung. If there is rain water on top of the barrel, when it cools the pressure inside the barrel drops and sucks water in. You need to keep the water off the top of that barrel or you will end up with water in your fuel. I have since switched to horizontal, cylindrical fuel tanks for outside storage and have installed an L shaped transfer tank in the p/u along with an across the bed tool box that fits the notch in the tank. Looks and works good.

Hey thanks that's good to know. I think Ill put a little raised nip above the head so if it breaths it can draw clear air. I have a sort of raw deal here on fuel. The fuel guy wont deliver less than 150 gallons, even at that it runs about 5-7 cents more than street fuel from the local station. We have a BP here in town and to the best of my knowledge its the only chain that still gives retail discounts on diesel. The other stations in town only give discounts on gasoline.

So, the master plan is to fork it into the PU, fill it up, and run over to wherever the crawler is at. It didn't occur to me until I had to do it how much time and fuel you can waste running back to the shop to fuel up. Not so bad with a tractor or skidloader, but man its slow going with a crawler. Im learnin !!

I can only buy diesel from a supplier that delivers here for more than 100 gallons, many of the fuel stations have signage up now that will not allow the pumping of fuel into a 55 gallon drum or will not allow the placement of more than 100 gallons in a truck bed tank without placarding, they do have control over the pumps from inside.

I get mine delivered from a MFA dealer, have a 250 gallon tank on a stand that meets EPA and local Environmental agencies standards. Yes it costs a few cents more per gallon but I don't like having set plans and they not being able to be used.

Yup, filling up is a bit of time of a time killer especially tracking to the tank on the loader. We usually do it first thing in the morning while it's still cool. Fortunately the co-op brings fuel to our tank and it's a bit cheaper than the off-road at the service stations.

The starter just has a gasket. If I remember right, the gasket kit that came with our reman engine had the starter gasket in it, which leads me to believe you could get one at the CaseIH place. Definitely Komatsu or you could make your own. We pulled the starter from the top but our loader was scotched. You might get away without dropping a pan to get one of the bolts on the bottom out, but it's sure easier to get to the bottom bolt from the bottom of the tractor.

250c said:

Did the 466 seem to have as much power as the dvt 573?

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The 466 was comparable to the DVT after you "opened it up" to get more HP which we did. The weak point of the crawler loaders was wet or soft conditions for the 17" pads. The 466 had move room to work in the engine compartments as the IH V's "were a bitch" to work on in the 20C's, E's, 250C, etc...

Yea there sure are a lot of guys that mod out the 466 for tractor pulls. I think even IH had a 280 hp version. It would seem very safe to bump up the HP on the 466 50 HP or so. The thing I wonder on that is "can you use it?" Given the trans, FD, cooling system and the lighter weight of the 175 VS the 250. Maybe it would just spin more. It seems to spin pretty easy now, granted my grouser are pretty shot.

Im going to weld on some 3/4 x 3/4 bar stock on the leading tread of each pad in a few weeks. Then well see if it runs out of snot. B

Barky said:

Yea there sure are a lot of guys that mod out the 466 for tractor pulls. I think even IH had a 280 hp version. It would seem very safe to bump up the HP on the 466 50 HP or so. The thing I wonder on that is "can you use it?" Given the trans, FD, cooling system and the lighter weight of the 175 VS the 250. Maybe it would just spin more. It seems to spin pretty easy now, granted my grouser are pretty shot.

Im going to weld on some 3/4 x 3/4 bar stock on the leading tread of each pad in a few weeks. Then well see if it runs out of snot. B

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We have some 175C 17" grouser bars that we were always going to weld on our 175C pads that we never got around to using that we would sell. Still new from Grace Track I believe.

Interesting, can you send me some specs on the bar ? I think our pads are 16" and we planned to cut at 15.1. Dimensions ? Send a PM if you like, It may take me a bit to get back to you Im going outa town for a week or so. B