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188D Engine rebuild question (dowel rings stuck in block)

Doug Overkill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Mass
Occupation
Machinist
I am working my way thru rebuilding the G188D engine from a 1971 Case 580CK. It has the very common spun #4 rod bearing problem. The issue of the day for me is removing the dowel rings that align the head to the block. They are 'stuck' into the block pretty darn well. It would be easier to clean the head mounting surface on the block and inspect for flat and for flange projection if these rings were removed.
Have any of you who have built this (or other) engines found any good tricks for getting these out? When they were installed were they a heavy press fit or a slide fit that has grown together?
If I have to work around them I can, but I think that is less ideal.
Thoughts?
 

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REDDEATH

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Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
53
Location
NY
I would just work around them because when I tryed to remove them they broke so I had to get replacements.
 

FRISKY

Active Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
32
Location
Oklahoma
Occupation
Retired
Heating the cast iron block and melting regular candle wax on the stuck dowel or bolt usually works.
 

theironoracle

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Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
940
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PACWEST
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OWNER/OPERATOR MOBILE HEAVY EQUIPMENT REPAIR
motor is probably cracked between cylinders at the thinnest part of the counterbores, seen them run this way and seen them fixed...............TIO
 

Doug Overkill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
48
Location
Mass
Occupation
Machinist
I lucked out on this one. Block and head were both good.

If you can call having to grind the crank and find a rod lucky.
 

bowen

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2011
Messages
540
Location
N. GA USA
Occupation
Electrical Panel Builder
Heating the cast iron block and melting regular candle wax on the stuck dowel or bolt usually works.

Wow... I have never heard about this trick. It don't seem logical that this would do anything at all...
What is the concept?
 

FRISKY

Active Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
32
Location
Oklahoma
Occupation
Retired
Wow... I have never heard about this trick. It don't seem logical that this would do anything at all...
What is the concept?
I don't know why it works, but an old engine rebuilder told me about it when I first started building race engines about 45-years ago. I have used candle wax instead of PB Blaster type products on bolts, plugs and pins stuck in hundreds of cast iron engine parts...it has worked the majority of the time. My best guess is heat causes a small gap between the parts and the wax flows like a thin solvent into the porous areas. The wax then thickens in the space and provides a superior lubricant instead of flashing off like a petroleum based product.

Wax also works well to keep threads in aluminum parts from galling when you screw them together.
 

joe--h

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
1,259
Location
Utah
Take a chisel to the side & collapse it. Grab with vice grip and it's out.
 
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