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Need injection pump timing info for Case D310F Dozer

Tinkerer

Senior Member
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May 21, 2009
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The shore of the illinois river USA
I would rather remove the valve cover before taking an injector out. I have reused those gaskets more than once and they didn't leak. You will be able to wiggle both of the rocker arms on #1 cylinder when you get the piston very close to TDC. A few degrees off either direction and one of them will no longer have any clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Injectors can sometimes take a very long time to remove without damaging them.
 

DIEBOG

Active Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
32
Location
Grass Valley CA
Thanks Tinkerer, Ya it was a piece of cake removing the valve(tappet) cover. I was just trying to avoid it because there was so much gunk built up around everything. But with a pressure washer and hot water it came right off.

So I was able to find timing marks (finally) and set it to 8deg BTDC. Front cylinder's rockers were loose and I checked the timing on the lil' window on the rossa master and only one mark was visible. So I think I must not of got the dots aligned when I put pump on and its off 160deg. I plan on taking off the IP tomorrow and realign the dots and try to set timing. But I had one question.....

I have been reading up on other threads about tips and such and I read that it is best to wire the throttle wide open before removing the IP? Is this correct? What is the purpose of this?
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Mar 18, 2010
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Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
OOPPS..Forgot to mention that in our previous conversations..
Yes..by all means wire it back to WOT..It prevents the flyweights from falling out of the weight cage. IF 1 becomes dislodged and the engine is started all *ell will break loose! Don't worry tho, just wire it back and don't forget to UNTIE IT before restarting the engine..
 

DIEBOG

Active Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
32
Location
Grass Valley CA
Thanks, I figured it was correct, but was more curious then anything for the reason to do so.

So I just got the pump off and looked at the dots and what do you know! It was off 180 as suspected. Now I just got to reassemble everything.

Im having some trouble tightening the nut behind the IP. A boxed end wrench wont fit because it hits the IP body, I tried a stubby wrench, tried crows foot socket and but it on end of an extension. But that didn't work. How do you guys reach this? I took it off so long ago, I cant remember how I did it. When I took it off this morning, it was loose from years ago when I put it on. There is like no room to get a wrench in there enough to get any degree of travel to tighten it.

And do I need to get new washers for the injection lines that attach to the body of the IP?
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
You can grind down a "box end wrench" or go to the store and get an "offset wrench"..I have a "1/2 moon wrench" that fits around the underside of the pump body..it looks like a "U"..
You "can" reuse the washers..but they are a "crush fit"..if they leak after retrying them, don't try to over tighten..you'll just have to get new ones.
Glad you found the problem..
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
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May 21, 2009
Messages
9,374
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The shore of the illinois river USA
I was able to get the hidden nut tight by using a 3/8 inch drive universal joint socket and an extension of a length that would fit in at an angle. I didn't know that crush washers were supposed to be used. Mike could you post a picture of your U shaped wrench ? The socket and extension is real pain to get lined up properly. Hopefully I won't need to remove that dam pump again.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,535
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I got it off the "strap-on" truck..I looked in their online catalogue but cant find it.. They do have one for the cummins pumps that's similar,but its a 13mm, just type in diesel in their search box.
I ordered mine special w/ a 1/2" on one side and a 9/16" on the other side of the "u"..also an "off set" wrench can be your best friend..
 

DIEBOG

Active Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
32
Location
Grass Valley CA
Guess what guys! Finally got that pump timed to 8deg BTDC, cleaned the fuel lines out, replaced fuel filters and cranked it over and after 4 or 5 rev she fired right up like nothing to it. I was so happy! The thing had been sitting for some time now and after spending some time installing the pump correctly, she runs like a champ again. Just sat there and purred. I am so glad there are forums like this and nice knowledgeable guys willing to help out newbies like me! I can't thank you guys enough!

I tried out the hydraulics and one of the main lines that feeds the selector valve sprung a leak that shot 20 ft up. Made a huge mess. Dohhh!! Just about every line on this is cracked and most likely going to go. Does anyone have a sugg or know of a good place online to get theses lines? I can go to my local trucking co that will make them, but its pricey because its all special order stuff. I was thinking maybe there is a place that sells them at a bulk price if you buy them all or something.

One more thing that I could use an opinion on is the gas tank situation. I was able to get it running off a small tank that I adapted and ran fuel line generically just to see if it ran. So the problem I have is its rusted, but doesn't leak. I was thinking about getting some of that tank coating stuff, but the tank is part of the seat and is fairly large as it houses the batteries as well so I don't know if that would work or even be possible to jostle around enough to properly clean out the rust and be able to apply the product to the inside. I took off the cap/bowl on the bottom that catches junk (held on by 4 9/16 bolts) and used a pressure washer to blow out everything until water was clear, but after I did that, I reached in the hole with my finger and can feel allot of caked up rust on the bottom. Now when looking down the fill hole, the sides are not rusty at all, but if you are familiar with this model, the back slants back and forms the bottom of the seat area. So its is impossible to see down to the bottom or get any kind of tool to scrape or vacuum out the tank. Oh and I did spray the tank down with diesel fuel after I pressure washed it so it wouldn't rust. I would really like to have the tank functional again so I don't have to rig a temp tiny fuel tank that could possibly leak or get in the way. But I also don't want to mess with plugged fuel lines and fuel filters. So any sugg or has anyone encountered this and found a good way to get rid of the rust? After some research, some say apple cider vinegar will eat rust, or plain vinegar, some say a type of acid (don't recall the type) one guy had used electrolysis and rebar which takes the rust and basically plates it to the rebar. Im sure there are many more ways, but I don't really want to experiment with it and waste allot of time. I think I am going to start a new thread about this because this one is on injection pumps and hopefully Ill get more feedback with the correct subject title.
 

Maxwell Williams

New Member
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Dec 3, 2020
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1
Location
71671
I have a 450c case dozer I see timing marks but timing pen is missing I have tdc andi compression stroke how do I make sure it doesn't s in time I know this is not how this fourm works but i can never post a conversation if I don't get block can anyone tell me how to time a 450c Case dozer my email is maxwell.williams46@gmail.com and if anyone can help me learn to post a question about. Let me ino
 
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