I'll get some more detail if you need, or someone else chimes in but the short of it. Once blade is removed, get your master link just behind the front idler, this will allow you to "roll" the idler wheel out and keep it up on the rail. Remove the grease cap located next to the zerk for the tessioner...to release any pressure left if any. Remove at least 2 pads each side of the master link, and finally removed the master link pad...watch you feet. We always took a large C clamp and attatched to the wheel and used the overhead hoist to hold it steady when we pushed it out...a cherry picker will do just fine as well. Removed the stop blocks on the front(4 bolts) and u should be ready to pull, push, pry, hammer...and maybe a lil cussing to get the idler to come off the shaft. the back shaft and spring will fall a bit, might need a strap or somthing later to lift it back up to put them back together. I've used a long threaded rod to to remove the "plunger" or whatever its called. Wiper seal on the end needs to come out as well. One thing always do...clean every bit of grease out of the shaft..will make for easier install of your tracks again. If you can, i would make sure to order ALL of the parts new for the tension adjustment. Install everything as they came out, sliding it almost all the way in, re install on the shaft, put some grease to it before re mounting your track...make sure its taking. Then re install stop blocks, track and blade.
I'm sure i missed a few small steps but that is it in a nutshell. I'm not a mechanic but over the past 40 years the biz owned all 15's and I grew up working on the 15C's. Done this operation a number of times over the years.
Trbo