Any input on good new first lowboy

Need a 35t+ lowboy. Will probably never haul over 80k due to CA laws, thinking of a hydraulic detach like trailking hdg70. Used lowboy prices are ridiculously high. Pretty sure the 25 year old trailers are going at auction for what they sold for new. Any thoughts about Kaufmann? Witzco? Better with pony motor or wet kit? Like the idea of being able to raise the trailer to not get hung up on things.

1newbie said:

Need a 35t+ lowboy. Will probably never haul over 80k due to CA laws, thinking of a hydraulic detach like trailking hdg70. Used lowboy prices are ridiculously high. Pretty sure the 25 year old trailers are going at auction for what they sold for new. Any thoughts about Kaufmann? Witzco? Better with pony motor or wet kit? Like the idea of being able to raise the trailer to not get hung up on things.

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Any reason you would not consider a mechanical style goose neck trailer? Overall they are simple to use, trailer is lighter and less things to worry about going wrong since you would never have to worry about hydraulics. I am not sure what your budget is but I have seen a good used 8 tire trailers with mechanical necks in the 1986-1990 vintage selling in the 15-18k If you get much newer the price starts climbing fast.

I was originally thinking 16 tire expando in case I get any bigger equipment. Those trailers (yours or cozad) are just so darn expensive. Two 2000 murray 16 tires going at rb sacramento next tuesday. That's a 12 year old trailer that may or may not need tires/brakes/etc. that will sell for over $50k. What did they sell for in 2000? Prices probably held high because of CA allowing so much weight with that axle grouping. Used equipment market is really weird these days. Hard to justify for me since I already do most of my moves with Trailmax 25t tilt that is so easy and fast to transport with. Problem is the short trailer won't allow me to haul more than 20t due to CA bridge weight bs.

I do really like the Murray trailers though.

1newbie said:

I was originally thinking 16 tire expando in case I get any bigger equipment. Those trailers (yours or cozad) are just so darn expensive. Two 2000 murray 16 tires going at rb sacramento next tuesday. That's a 12 year old trailer that may or may not need tires/brakes/etc. that will sell for over $50k. What did they sell for in 2000? Prices probably held high because of CA allowing so much weight with that axle grouping. Used equipment market is really weird these days. Hard to justify for me since I already do most of my moves with Trailmax 25t tilt that is so easy and fast to transport with. Problem is the short trailer won't allow me to haul more than 20t due to CA bridge weight bs.

I do really like the Murray trailers though.

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A 2000 vintage trailer completely depending on condition would probably sell in the 55-60k range assuming it is a 21'6" or 22'10" deck. If it is a shorter deck it usually cuts into the value a little. New in 2000 they were give or take around that price before taxes so for a 12 year old trailer I would say our products hold their value very well. The biggest reason they hold their value is our trailers hold up to repeated daily abuse that a low bed sees over its lifetime.

Not sure what your going to use it for exactly, but I'd avoid the witzco trailers, make sure you get a non ground bearing trailer if you go detach, yes others are cheaper and lighter, but if you need to detach in the dirt, mud, on gravel roads, anywhere off the beaten path, you'll like the non ground bearing feature. I personally wouldn't ever buy a ground bearing trailer but I run in adverse conditions off the beaten path. Yes trailers are high priced, not sure why used is out this world right now, condition makes a big difference, new has gone up so much in the last few years because of steel prices, used has followed suit I guess, like everything else.

I run talbert and rodgers trailers myself, I like them both, I'd stay to a major manufacturer, not those that cater to the auction sales sites. There are a lot of great trailers out there, as for one being better than another, yes, but there are still a lot of good quality trailers out there made you can afford. As for witzco trailers I've seen a few with the side rails blown out and the deck laying on the ground, wasn't real impressed myself, also look at the load capabilty of the trailer in the span length, this is very important for a lowboy, it doesn't do any good to be able to carry 35 ton if you have it have it spead out over the full length of the entire deck say instead of in 10-15 ft length like most tracks are long on machines. Thats the biggest difference in trailers, also the big name manufacurers make different quality trailers, my rodgers is a cheaper version of the 50 ton triple axle trailer, it works just fine but I don't load it full and run everyday over the road either, but its still far better than any witzco trailer.

As for the pony motor verses wet kit debate, I've got both, I absolutely hate the pony motor trailer, why, because when you need it it won't start, you either drove in rain, cold, snow or its out of gas or the battery is dead, anyone can brag all they want about saving weight and expense of the wet kit, but for me once the truck is running I have hydraulics and can run the trailer as well, will they both work, yes, but after years of use, I've spent more money on upkeep on the stupid pony motor than I ever did on the wet kit. Also look to see where the pony motor is mounted, some rocket scientist years back decided it was a good idea to mont the motor in the belly, great idea, saves space, just once the trailer is loaded, you can't access the motor if it won't start, same goes for mounting it in the neck, had it a few times where I had stuff backed up the neck and I couldn't get at the motor, mount it on top of the neck and you are standing on top of the neck to pull start it after the battery is dead in the rain and snow, fell off mine a few times doing that as well. I've had mine mounted on top of the neck, in the neck, both were a pain in the a**, on top it was too high to reach, in the neck you had to pull the motor out every time there was a battery connection problem on the starter, like it has right now, so we pull start it every time, also road salt and dust raises havoc on the connections for the battery no matter where its mounted on the trailer. I just haven't had time to throw the pony motor away and mount up another two line wet kit on my second truck yet, one of these days, when its probably snowing or for some reason the pony motor won't start I'll take it off and throw it away and pull the truck into the shop and bite the bullet and just do the twon line wet kit on that truck too.

As for my trailers, I run dayton wheels yet, probably wouldn't recommend that for most, I'd probably go bud style with outboard brakes and 22.5 tires, mine are super low pro 22.5's and are hard to find around me so I keep several spares on hand, if possible go with a tail and ramps out the back as well as the detach, wish mine had this feature

Go with the longest bed length you can, my 35 ton is only a 20 ft deck my 50 ton has a 24 ft deck, wish the 35 ton had the 24 ft and my 50 ton had a 25 or 26 ft deck. The shorter decks are limiting what you can haul, for example I've got several machines I could haul on my 35 ton trailer together but they won't fit on the deck at the same time, weight isn't a problem its the deck length, same for the 50 ton trailer, now in my state I can legally haul up to 86,000 on 6 axles but two machines won't fit on the deck length, if it were longer I could do that. Just a few ideas to toss out there for you to ponder over, best of luck on your search for a trailer.

On the subject of pony motors or gasoline motors in general, another problem with them is the ethanol in the gasoline. I have had nothing but problems out of every small engine I have. The ethanol wreaks havoc on the carbs.:Banghead

I have had a mechanic rebuild the carbs in the hay blower, generator, plate compactor, compressor, etc, etc. Now my lube skid air compressor is not running right and I know what it is....

I haven't owned a lowboy yet but when the time comes the truck will have a wet kit, I am just not going through the frustration.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback.

CM, make sure you run the engine out of gas after each use, it helps to keep the fuel from drying out in the carb and leaving the starch residue behind, also helps some to run 100LL avaiation gas in them, you foul plugs more often but it completely eliminates the problems your having, that and av gas has a shelf life of 20 years and won't go bad, we try to put it in anything that does not require a mixture to be used, also works great to overwinter small engines so they'll start in the spring again. As for small gas engines in general, those should have a warning label attached to them saying "use of said product will result in anger management issues"

I never thought of aviation gas, I'll have to look into that. I try my best to use only "Ethanol-Free" gasoline in my small engines. It really helps. I heartily agree about the needed warning.

Randy88 said:

As for small gas engines in general, those should have a warning label attached to them saying "use of said product will result in anger management issues"

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No doubt Randy, that should be a warning label and a topic at Anger Management courses...

Chaz,
If you are still following this thread; how do guys with mech detach deal with uneven terrain? I have no heavy haul experience, but have 10 years experience driving equipment trailers with 36" deck height. Seems impossible to not get hung up all the time and scrape the heck out of the bottom of lowboy.

I know you guys don't like ground bearing trailers but we have one. Now i must say that when your loaded and you bottom out going across an intersection life starts to suck real bad real fast:Banghead That being said if you need a lowboy like we did and are not 100% sure what you should get, look for something cheap and go from there. Nothing sucks more then spending 40,000 to 50,000 and finding it's not exacly what you need.

We have a 35 ton GB witzco. It's not the best but for what we paid for it we could'nt go wrong. Plues it was a learning experiance. We know what we want in our next trailer and will be able to spend a little more and not have to worry about buyers remorse.

Our next trailer will be a 50ton Fontian Magnatued with a 3rd axel lift and air ride all around.

As for what you do when you bottom out with a ground bearing trailer. 1. say a few four letter words then look around to see how bad traffic is screwed up 2. Engage the PTO and dump your air bags 3. walk back and lift the trailer as high as you can 4. put as many shims (you remembered to put shims on the truck right?) as you can fit between the main rails and the legs that hold the trailer up 5. set the trailer down and hope that you will be high enough to back up 6. shut down the PTO and inflate your air bags (this may take a few minutes, ignore the honking)7 back up and try to find a way around that little hangup.

Sounds like fun huh? Thats why everyone trys to buy a nonground bearing trailer.

Well, here in CA, Murray is the way to go. As for rough ground, I have been places that would make you cringe with mine. The great thing about a Murray is they will hold up to loading over the rear. The only time the gooseneck comes off of mine is for something low enough to the ground it will hang up going over the rear, and that is not much. I put D-8's and 330 excavators over the rear all the time, and have never had any troubles.
When you do break down the gooseneck, you need some level ground, and watch for loose gravel, sand, or mud.

The best part is that with the right truck, you can haul 45 ton, and even it you don't have the heavy front axle, you can still get 40 ton capacity.

Looks like murray won out. Picked up a 1990 murray 16 tire. Fresh paint and completely gone through. Now I have to fab some lowboy ramps.....

Get a pair of aluminum split rim type wheels and you are all set.

Birken Vogt said:

Get a pair of aluminum split rim type wheels and you are all set.

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For what? :idontgetit :beatsme

When loading a dozer over the tail, they put them down behind the tail of the trailer on the ground where the ramps would go. The dozer climbs up on the wheels first, then it's not such a big jump onto the trailer. The wheels are aluminum for light weight so you can move them without breaking your back, and they don't cut into payload....

I see. So it makes no difference what-so-ever if they are multi-piece or one piece (split rim vs. tubeless). I understand the concept. A mound of dirt pushed up by the dozer serves the same purpose without having to be hauled around. Or just place the blade on the trailer and raise the front of the tracks. My confusion stemmed from the split rim part.

Still need ramps to break down the gooseneck correct?

Ahh, you were thinking ramps on the tractor. We were thinking ramps on the tail of the trailer.

Putting the blade down and sliding it on the trailer works occasionally, though it's hard on the trailer if you do it day in and day out.

The pile of dirt tends to upset customers when you leave it on their finished site.