Oval rear tires

Deon · Jul 10, 2012

My Deere 310D has Firestone tires on the rear. They are off round buy about 1/2". This off roundness causes unneccessay bouncing on the road.
Do most of you have oval rear tires? If not what brand makes round tires?:beatsme

Thanks

SeaMac · Jul 10, 2012

It is possible your tires have developed a flat spot, back in the day when bias-ply tires were common on passenger cars it usually took a few miles for the tires to warm up and get the flat spots out. I don't know if you have radials or bias-ply tires. I do know that once a radial develops a flat spot it is all but impossible to get rid of it. If you do have bias-ply tires you may be able to road run the machine to warm up the tires then park it with the tires lifted off the ground and see what happens. There is also a member here named "tireman" and he is probably your best resource for information. Good luck...

stumpjumper83 · Jul 10, 2012

its common with large tires to get them slightly outa round especially if the machine sits alot. the 18.4x34 on the ih 66 series farm tractors do it as well. Usually it goes away after the tire warms up

hougie · Jul 10, 2012

Does it bounce all the time or just when your traveling faster?

bowen · Jul 11, 2012

Is this on BOTH rear tires and in the same general shape?
I have heard of machines that actually grind off imperfections on bad passenger tires that were not rotated properly.
That would be a lot of grinding on a set of these.
Surely they were not like this when new... How old are the tires?

Deon · Jul 11, 2012

Well I don't know if they are bias-ply or not. Being a 1992 year machine and they are about 60% worn, I suppose they could be 5 to 10 years old. Did Firestone make bias-ply tires after say 2002? They do not have a flat spot. When I lift the machine on the stabilizers and set the machine in low gear at idol I can stand besides the tire as it turns and monitor the thread movement. Seams about half of the tire follows a particular path and the other half is about 1/2" inside of that. One tire is worst that the other but not by much. The treads look to be all the same dept so to me it just looks like they were made that way. Also they are loaded. I don't know if that is good or bad as far as bouncing goes but I'm sure they are not oval due to being loaded. As far as what speed they bounce. About 10 to 15 mph is the worst speed. 17 to 20 mph is not as bad. As the tires warm up its also a bit better. Also if I remove the backhoe boom off of lock and tilt it back just a little it seems to help as the boom acts like a ride control of sorts.

d4c24a · Jul 12, 2012

it still happens now , even on a 6 month old jcb 3cx
as said takes a few miles and its gone

tireman · Jul 12, 2012

First of all, Firestone has always been a premium implement tire(bias ply), hands down.If there is no R in the tire size(i.E...21LR24 vs. 21L-24), they are not radials.As far as the bounce-never seen a hoe that didn't bounce.First make sure if it's the tires themselves or the wheel.Spin the tires 180 degrees on the wheel(mark spots, then deflate, unseat beads and rotate, lube beads in inflate).Mark the high point of the tire, then spin the wheel 180 degrees on the hub and check again.John Deere's tolerances were huge on their wheels/hubs.Never put a wheel on a JD machine(backhoe, log skidder, grader or loader) that I didn't have to get every bolt started before I could tighten any.On a Cat, you can start two 180 degrees apart and tighten them down and still be able to get the rest of them to thread in. What are you running for air pressure?

tireman · Jul 12, 2012

[There is also a member here named "tireman" and he is probably your best resource for information.[/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]

Thanks for the gracious endorsement SeaMac!

hougie · Jul 12, 2012

Our loader bounces too, But it's because of the calcium in the tires.

Deon · Jul 13, 2012

tireman said:
First of all, Firestone has always been a premium implement tire(bias ply), hands down.If there is no R in the tire size(i.E...21LR24 vs. 21L-24), they are not radials.As far as the bounce-never seen a hoe that didn't bounce.First make sure if it's the tires themselves or the wheel.Spin the tires 180 degrees on the wheel(mark spots, then deflate, unseat beads and rotate, lube beads in inflate).Mark the high point of the tire, then spin the wheel 180 degrees on the hub and check again.John Deere's tolerances were huge on their wheels/hubs.Never put a wheel on a JD machine(backhoe, log skidder, grader or loader) that I didn't have to get every bolt started before I could tighten any.On a Cat, you can start two 180 degrees apart and tighten them down and still be able to get the rest of them to thread in. What are you running for air pressure?

Tireman, you lit up my mind. I noticed when installing the wheels that the bolt holes were much larger than the bolts. That allows me to mount the wheels way off center. Thanks so much. I will check that out.

tireman · Jul 13, 2012

hougie said:
Our loader bounces too, But it's because of the calcium in the tires.

I seriously doubt that, although I suppose if they are improperly(under)filled and you were going fast enough, maybe.If they are properly filled, there is only the smallest of an air pocket at the very top(12 o'clock),leaving no room for the fluid to undulate.

Deon · Jul 13, 2012

Tireman,
I had a look at my wheels again today. There is a centring shoulder on the wheel hub therefore the large holes don't change anything.
The tires are not radials. I checked the rims for roundness and fount one to be off by no more than 1/8". The other even less.
I did all this after using the machine for about 4 hrs. and found the tires to be rounder than they were the other day after sitting over night. I suppose they are taking a shape for sitting for a while. My question to you. Are radial less prone to this problem?
Thank
Deon

tireman · Jul 14, 2012

Yes, they are.However, the cost difference does not justify changing over just for that.I still recommend spinning the tires 180 on the wheel as a cure.1/8th plus 1/8th equals 1/4, which is already half of the 1/2 inch you were talking about.You'll be surprised at the difference doing that can make.Every wheel and every tire has a "high point", and a "low point". That's what those dots are on new tires(passenger and semi). Although the bigger tires aren't marked for this, it's still a reality nonetheless.

Deon · Jul 14, 2012

tireman said:
Yes, they are.However, the cost difference does not justify changing over just for that.I still recommend spinning the tires 180 on the wheel as a cure.1/8th plus 1/8th equals 1/4, which is already half of the 1/2 inch you were talking about.You'll be surprised at the difference doing that can make.Every wheel and every tire has a "high point", and a "low point". That's what those dots are on new tires(passenger and semi). Although the bigger tires aren't marked for this, it's still a reality nonetheless.

Tireman,
You are making lots of sense and I totally believe what your saying. I have one problem with this. My tires are loaded with liquid, I assume calcium. I would need to empty and reload them.
Is it worth the cost? I don't suppose its possible to save it and reuse it.
How do you normally remove the calcium?
Is the new calcium or rim guard loaded through the valve stem with a special pump?
Tireman, I am so happy to have an expert like you helping me out. Thank you so much.

tireman · Jul 14, 2012

First question I have is do you really need the weight for what you do with your machine? I've never had occasion to see a hoe with filled tires myself, although I have heard of it. As far as worth the cost, you gotta determine whether you need it to do what you do. At any rate, it is re-usable and it is pumped through the valve with a diaphragm pump.Valve at 6 o'clock to remove and at 12 o'clock to fill.Tire has to be seated on the wheel, then deflated and filled. If you don't need it, lose it. Myself, I doubt you need it, but you know better than me what you do. Oh and don't get any on your boots!!!! Makes jerky out of good leather over night- they'll shrink two sizes and curl up like bacon.

hougie · Jul 17, 2012

I'm just telling you how it is, There not filled to the brim. There filled to whatever the vastly experienced tire guy fills them too which isn't to the brim.

tireman said:
I seriously doubt that, although I suppose if they are improperly(under)filled and you were going fast enough, maybe.If they are properly filled, there is only the smallest of an air pocket at the very top(12 o'clock),leaving no room for the fluid to undulate.

bowen · Jul 18, 2012

hougie said:
There not filled to the brim. There filled to whatever the vastly experienced tire guy fills them too which isn't to the brim.

I would ask the one who filled them why they are wobble. Maybe they are not fill properly or "equally." ??

It seems logical to me that heavy fluid in a tire with a large air pocket might make it appear to wobble at a higher speed.:roll

d4c24a · Jul 18, 2012

ballasting tyres does not mean they need to be filled to the top , i run a few 50 kph tractors from time to time , i know one has 60% in the rears with no trouble at top speed
and when on the hedgecutter its only the offside that is filled with no problems :beatsme

tireman · Jul 18, 2012

:deadhorse The proper way is to fill them enough so that the fluid level is higher than the top of the wheel, so that the wheel itself is never exposed to air.This is how you can have tire/wheel assembly's full of calcium chloride for years and not have the wheel rust out.Not to the top of the tire, but over the top of the wheel.Of course, there are those out there who have never done it, probably never seen it done, but can tell us exactly how it's supposed to be.Now, you can put a single gallon, 50 gallons,25%,50%,whatever you or whoever is doing it wants to put in there, and it'll "work". Regardless, if the wheel is exposed to calcium chloride and air, IT WILL RUST OUT!!FAST!!!! :deadhorse :stirthepot:avid

Oval rear tires

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