TD15c trans problem

Didn't switch hoses, but did check pressure of F1 at the main spool earlier, checked to specs. Have been using it to clean cattle feed pads this week and hope to get it back closer to the shop sometime next week, will swap hoses then. Will also try Rocko 59. Thanks for all the help!

Hey Malcolm, swapped F1 and F2 hoses, now when lever is in F1 position dozer moves fast forward, when lever is in F2 position dozer does not move. Didn't swap the forward/reverse hoses, will try that next and see what happens. Will keep everyone posted.

I used to run a TD15 that had problems in the gears. It wasn't a fluid issue. The shifter on the right hand side of the floor had to be in high range. If it was put into low range it wouldn't move at all. Ran it for many years like that with no issues.

Hi there, You have eliminated the hand control so far. If as I said you can get to the plugs at the ends of the shafts it will tell you a lot. Looking at the diagram posted by Malcolm the imput shaft is you forward shaft and the plugs will be at the rear of the trans before the back (bevel gear) housing. They will be hard to get to and will involve removing batteries etc. If you have bad pressure here look for a control problem, if you have good pressure here you do not have a control problem and the problem is most likely inside the transmission. Oil pressure builds up in this cavity and behind you accelerating pistons, from here it bleeds through two very small holes and into you main piston to engage the clutch. If there is a large leak in the main piston, the pressure in the shafts may be good, but the two little holes may not be letting enough oil though to build up pressure and engage the main clutch. Aside from this you may have something broken in the clutch (e.g. stripped spline, circlip come off). If you do not find a control problem you will need to pull the trans much as it is the last thing you will want to do. If it happened all of a sudden it suggest that something has let go and more than likely inside the trans. The control side of the trans is pretty basic and does not give a lot of trouble, if the gauge on the dash shows good pressure in all gears chances are the control side of the trans is O.K. If there is an internal leak in a main clutch the gauge on the dash will likely drop off a bit and flicker a bit at low idle when that gear is engaged. Good luck I hope you find a control problem Cheers 68M.

sound like the low clutch pack has come apart one of my custmor tractor did that one time while he was using it every thing else worked good

Hi
now that you have located the f1 hose ok you could disconect it at the bottom end and put a gauge into it
or put the end in a bucket with some rag around it ,give the lever a flick just to make sure that hose is ok and
not blocked with the inside core coming apart ,better to find now than later . But so far it points to being an internal
problem, If with the hi -lo lever in gear and the brake on the universal still spins while the dash gauge reads ok
yet locks up in the 3 other gears then it will be internal . best of luck Malcolm

Dad had 15c that lost 1st reverse. Its a very cheap seal but you have to pull the trans apart to get at it.

Brainzie, You could well be right, there are several rubber seal rings and quite a few hook type piston seals in these transmissions any one of which could be damaged not to mention the sealing plates on the centre discs between the pistons. The most likely one that you refer to is the square section seal ring that sits on the outside of the aluminium plate that form part of the piston housings. They are hard to assemble without damaging them, as they have to slide past a groove for the circlip that holds the piston assembly together. I used to fill this groove with wire so that the seal would slid past it without catching. Hows it going Allis4x4man have you got any further diagnosing your problem, Cheers.

68m the main input shaft on a 15c trans goes though the rear main frame to the planetary and brake housing. It also acts as a pto to drive a winch the only way to get to the end of this shaft is to take the back inspection plate off of the rear of the tractor and you will see the splined shafted above the pinion shaft. The other side of the shaft is where the u joint comes from the torque converter. I don’t think there is any way to test pressure at the end of this shaft. I could be wrong.

Correct, the shaft goes straight through into the back housing and as I have said provides drive for a winch if fitted. Much as it's a while since I worked on one I'm sure mine had two plugs on the trans housing near where the shaft goes into the rear housing. Its right at the point where the slip rings are on the shaft. You are right, the test point are not on the shafts, but just before the oil goes into them. This shaft (forward) you can not get to without removing the trans, the other one (reverse) you can remove a small bolt-on housing at the front of the trans and expose the slip rings, not that this is where the problem lies.

68 sorry I though you were saying end of the shaft. There are two pipe plugs on the removable manifold seal housing that covers the end of that shaft. with the trans installed the two plugs would be between the back of the trans and mainframe the plugs are on the side of the manifold so they point up so you might be able to get them out with a ratchet and extension. What pressure are you looking for at this point if I have a trans in good shape are you looking for main clutch pressure or less do you test in gear or does it matter? I have never run pressure test at this point before trying to learn something new thanks

Hi TD15c, I sold my TD15 about 10 years ago and do not have a service manual, so anything I say is from memory. If you are working on your tractor, please read the service manual to confirm that what I say is correct, I do stand to be corrected, but in saying that I did have quite a bit to do with the trans and any other part of the tractor for that matter. These plug go into the oil supply for each clutch pack, the two on the rear housing are for the two forward gears and two on the front housing are for the reverse gears. When the machine is in neutral there should be lube pressure at all points, when a gear is engaged one of the points (plugs) should read full transmission pressure, depending on which gear is engaged. I don't think they mention these test point in the service manual and probably for good reason as you cannot afford to drop any dirt into these holes. As I have said the holes in the accelerating pistons that supply the main pistons are tiny and would not take a lot to block. If your transmission is going good, DO NOT remove them. If you do remove them make sure everthing is spotlessly clean. The reason I mentioned these test points is, if you have good pressure here when the gear is selected and your transmission is not functioning correctly chances are you have a problem inside the transmission and it will have to come out anyway. If you have an internal leak chances are at full throttle the pressure here will be good, but at low idle pressure may drop off and flicker (fluctuate) whilst in gear, this can normally be seen on the dash gauge as well. I hope this all make sense, have a good day, 68M.

the hi/low lever needs to be in gear ... if you have clutch pressure you need to do a torque stall with the machine at operating temperature and that will tell you right away... I have been working on Td15s for 25 years and I can help... kurt@cpecanada.com

Hey 68 sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner. But been real busy here the weather has been real good and we usually have snow on the ground and 8 to ten inches of frost in the ground, So been doing dirt work and winter shop work. Your right the test points aren’t in the manual so I have never used them, but the plugs are there and I always wondered why. Next time I have a trans problem I will have another tool in my chest. Thanks

I have been an IH mechanic since 1989 if you want to know how to check your transmission I can help... kurt@cpecanada.com.. You need to do a torque stall and that will tell you in ten minutes. Have you checked the suction screen for disc material or metal on the screen? If you use first forward for a lot of your work then it is likely that your first gear clutch pack is worn out.

68M said:

TD 15c's do not have high & low steering (like TD25's). Drive shaft will also spin if trans clutch packs are slipping. Often if there is a problem in a clutch pack, when it is selected it may feel like it wants to engage and drive and may at low idle stop the drive shaft from turning, but as soon as some power is applied it will slip and the drive shaft under the floor plate will spin TD15c's can slip in there steering but chances are it will only be on one side whilst under load. Cheers

Click to expand...

I currently operate a TD 15... but I don't know what exact model because it has been all repainted..it does have the steering in which you can put either lever forward (high low)??? The drive shaft does spin as soon as the machine is started...does that signify any problems? Where can I find the suction filter on this and does anybody know the model I am currently operating...I apologize for my ignorance.

Some pics of the 15

The one in the pics is a 15E so will have the two speed steering. RDG.

Timberghost you have a 15e like rdg said. I don’t know much about a 15e so I can’t help you with your suction filter. If you don’t get answers here I would start a new tread for your 15e questions. When you start the machine and it is in neutral the drive shaft between the converter and the Trans should spin. When in gear with brakes on it should stop and should not move even if you put full power to the motor, unless you pull through the brakes and the machine moves, that is a stall test you can do it in all gears. That’s how it works with a td15c anyway. Good luck

I can get you all the books you need for a TD15E and all the parts you need. International and Dresser machines are very simple to test the transmission and the two speed rear end.Send me an email if you need more info... kurt@cpecanada.com

IH mechanic for more than 25 Years

I found the model number and serial number on the plate by the engine. I should've done that in the beginning but I'm not the sharpest knife in the cupboard. Thank you guys for the help.