20 ton trailer?

I have the opportunity to buy a 20 ton trailer through a friend for close to the price of a 10 ton. My goal is to be able to tow both my mini and skid steer to a job in one trip or my mini and mud mats. Is there a negative side to using a heavier duty trailer than needed other than the additional tow weight of the trailer? I had been debating on 9/10 ton trailers and if I should go with air brakes or electric. I have always heard air brakes have better stopping power but I have no idea about the up keep on air brakes vs electric. The 20 ton obviously has air. Any thoughts/suggestions?

As long as you have the truck to pull the bigger trailer, I would definitely consider it. It will give you more options later with hauling bigger equipment. Is the 20 ton a longer trailer? If so, that could hinder access to certain areas.

I am currently using a single axle Ford L8000. I think it should be able to pull 10 or 11 tons ok, not sure i'd try a full 20. I think the 20 ton trailer is within a few feet length of the 10. One reason i originally purchased a single axle is to help getting around in tighter quarters so i am in as good of shape as I can be although I'm not sure I could do a U turn in a cul de sac.

I'd like to step up to a tandem dump truck in the future but I think the trailer would be more immediately useful. Eitherway I think I am going to have to wait for tax refund to buy anything. My friend is cool with holding onto it for a few months so I think that will work out.

Can anyone comment on how much upkeep there is to maintaining air brakes on a trailer? I imagine it is similiar to air brakes on a dump truck but thought I would ask just in case.

The cost of the trailer plate will jump up quite a bit for a 20 ton plate. I move my excavator 15 ton with my single axle dump truck. It seems to handle the load pretty good. I take it pretty easy, keep the speed down as I don't go far from one job to the next. It works for me and what I do just fine.

Im sure the cost of plates in NC is the same, or about the same for 10 or 20 ton. I think I paid $53 for a permanent plate for a 10 ton
I would buy the 20 ton, you have alot more trailer for the future
I would go with air brakes anytime, over electric. I just had to replace the brake backing plates on my 12 ton and they cost $150 a piece. Air brake are alot simplier and cheaper
L8000 will pull it with no problem
Good Luck

Willis Bushogin said:

Im sure the cost of plates in NC is the same, or about the same for 10 or 20 ton. I think I paid $53 for a permanent plate for a 10 ton
I would buy the 20 ton, you have alot more trailer for the future
I would go with air brakes anytime, over electric. I just had to replace the brake backing plates on my 12 ton and they cost $150 a piece. Air brake are alot simplier and cheaper
L8000 will pull it with no problem
Good Luck

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Great info Willis, thanks for your reply. I'm glad to hear my current setup should work ok with the trailer and that air brakes are simplier to work on. Nice for a change. ***

Once again, I'm stuck with having to agree with Willis, but, I'd definitely go w/ air brakes everytime, over electric or hydraulic. The maintenance costs over time should be much less w/ the 20-ton.

Im looking for a tri axle landoll if any body has one for sale get ahold of me in alberta.

Mike
www.landmassdirt.com

I would buy that 20 ton asap especially if it's near the cost of a 10 ton and as far as air or electric brakes like the others before have said
air is the way to go better stopping,more reliable and less maintenance.

Air all the way better brakes cheaper to run more reliable. I run a Eager Beaver 20 ton carrying a Takeuchi 240 and a bobcat 335 it works realy good and if I need to I can move my 315B cat 34000# so I never have to change trailers. Also 20 ton is cheaper to tag combination where a 10 ton can't be combination in MD. Get ABS it works great no more flat spots.