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Replacing Brake Bands on D5

d5cat

Active Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
34
Location
Iowa
I have a 1973 Caterpillar D5B (96J Series). One of my brake bands is completely shot and the other is almost out of adjustment. I figured it would be best to replace both at the same time. Has anyone replaced the brake bands on this machine before? I was wondering how difficult it will be to replace them because I am trying to decide whether to have CAT replace them for me or try to replace them myself. Any ideas on how long this should take an experienced dozer mechanic? I am sure CAT will charge an arm, leg, and a few fingers. I was hoping to have someone come help me do it, but it isn't easy finding an experienced dozer mechanic in my area. If anyone knows of someone in the Des Moines, IA area, please let me know. I rather do it myself so I can learn, but I don't want to get in over my head!
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If you can't find an experienced independent mechanic in your area you could always have a word with your the local Cat dealer and ask them if they are prepared to do the steering clutch/brake band removal and replacement if you do all the preparatory work including getting the covers off and then box it all up again afterwards. That gets you the use of all the special tools necessary (it's a list almost as long as your arm) to get the clutches out and back again whilst at least keeping your fingers intact, and maybe one arm & possibly a leg as well.

Best I can think of off the top of my head.
 

54j

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Jan 22, 2011
Messages
70
Location
perth
excellent, I've been looking forward to contributing rather than asking!. We have a very similar tractor (mines 54j) I redid the brake bands a few months ago when everything else was apart rebuilding the final drives. The bands themselves were easy, 6 sections per side and the parts were 'only' about $100.00 Aud. You will need to drill out the old rivets , replace the bands, drill new holes through the bands and put in new rivets to hold the pads to the metal bands. It's very easy. I had the clutch packs out anyway when I did them and would doubt you could remove the bands without removing the packs...but check on this. The clutch packs were fairly easy to remove with basic tools. 'Undoing' the lock tags was interesting and everything else was straight forward. You have to remove the yoke assembly to winch out the packs (they are about 100kg I think????) The one good thing about having the packs out is that you can really have a good look around....pressure clean the compartment and pressure clean the clutch itself.it was amazing how much crap came out and how much better it worked after a good clean. Make sure there is no oil in the compartment as this is a dry system.
 

grandpa

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Oct 15, 2009
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northern minnesota
You sure you can't replace the bands on that machine thru the access holes without removing the clutch packs? Im thinking you can. But I've been wrong before...lol.
 

jrtraderny

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Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
236
Location
New York
You sure you can't replace the bands on that machine thru the access holes without removing the clutch packs? Im thinking you can. But I've been wrong before...lol.

Yep through the access holes, no problem.
All he needs to take off are the covers on top and on the back, unhook the brake linkage and take the bands apart.
3 pieces I believe on each one, bolted together. Might have to remove the seat too.
Not a big deal, only need to remember to back off the support bolt on the bottom of the brake housing.
jr
 

TOM V

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Mar 11, 2011
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CONNECTICUT
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Mechanic, Welder, Office work ect.
If all you have to do is change the bands, they will come out in three pieces and the steering clutch will remain bolted to the flanges. try to find a service manual, it shows everything you need to know, good luck.
 

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
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2,382
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Worc U.K.
D5cat, the D5B;s that I have worked on are fitted with a 720 brake band, that does not unbolt into 3 sections, the only special service tool you will need is found between your ears, you will have to remove the steering clutch to swap out the brake band, this is easy to do only needing the bolts removing on the drum and clutch mounting faces, the brake anchor plate is bolted onto the back of the main case, this will need removing also the anchor pins and adjuster, then you need to lft out the clutch with a sling strangled to grip and the jobs done,you will need to ether jack or push the tractor forward or backwards to get at all the bolts holding the clutch and drum in place, or split the tracks, but I feel fairly sure the bands are not the 3 section set-up that has been already been put forward.
I might be wrong?? tctractors but I am putting my name to it

p.s. you dont have any clutch yokes to worry about on the 5B its oil bosted, just get em out
 
Last edited:

JeremiahSr

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Sep 10, 2010
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204
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Houston, Tx
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Vice Pres./General man./Technician
This is what it looks like inside. Not a great pic but you can see how each end is pinned and the bolt on under the case.
 

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LonestarCobra

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Sep 4, 2008
Messages
228
Location
WV
A 96 J is not a D5B. If it is a 96J, the bands will come out in 3 pieces like has been stated. If it does happen to be a D5B such as a 24X, the steering clutch will have to be removed. Either way, no special tools required.
 

tctractors

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Worc U.K.
D5cat if it is the early D5 tractor with the dry case, it is a lot simpler to do, remove the adjustable support bolt from under the case, slacken off the brake adjuster and remove the anchor pins and anchor, rotate the band around the drum and undo the section bolts and fiddle out the 3 sections, as Loanstar has said, all you need is afew hand tools, JeremiahSr parts listing is showing the 3 section brake band set up, it is not a hard job to tackle, oh and double check on the model and serial No, so next time you are getting the best help.
 

jrtraderny

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Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
236
Location
New York
If it's a 1973 it 's a 96J with 3 piece dry bamds.
Chances are if it was newer and had wet bands he wouldn't be replacing them .
The B series didn't come out until later like late 70's early 80's.
jr
 

d5cat

Active Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
34
Location
Iowa
Thanks to everyone for the help, I wasn't expecting so many responses! I think everyone gave the correct response based on what they thought I had. Just as others have mentioned, I gave conflicting information. When I bought the machine the seller said it was a D5B, but after further investigation it is not. I checked the serial plate again and it just says D5. The serial number is 96J3843 and it is a 1973 so it has a 3 piece dry band. I had never even operated a bulldozer before I bought this machine a couple years ago so I am learning as I go. Sorry for the confusion.

It doesn't sound too bad so I am going to give it a shot. I certainly know where to come for questions. Thanks again for everyone's input.
 

d5cat

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Aug 3, 2010
Messages
34
Location
Iowa
Another quick question. How bad is it if I have just been tightening the adjustment nut on the brake band? I never knew there was a setscrew on the bottom that needed adjusted. I had someone that said they knew dozers help me do basic maintenance for the first time after I just bought the machine (about 2 years ago) and they just tightened the nut on the brake band. He also told me I would have to take the track off to get at the brake bands and that is what scared me away from changing the bands in the first place. Then again to replace the belts he had us taking off the damn fan guard (and to get that off we also had to take the pipe that runs down from the coolant tank off) instead of just feeding the belt through the opening in the top of the fan guard...blind leading the blind. I think the worst was the 1/2 hour he took to screw on the oil filter because he was trying to screw it on the wrong way. And yes, I paid him for all of his "expert help", which still makes me sick to this day.

Anyway, when I looked at the bands when I recently took off the top plate, the pads seemed to have plenty of life left. I wonder if I just need to tighten that screw at the bottom. I will be a little mad at myself considering I just cleaned up my last farm using just the left brake if that is the case. I just bought the machine for farm work so obviously I have no clue what I am doing. Can someone please tell me how to get at that screw on the bottom of the brake band?
 

54j

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Jan 22, 2011
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70
Location
perth
going back a step or two d5cat......do you need to change out the bands???...from memory brand new pads had about 5-7mm...roughly...that should give you some idea. If you only have brakes on one side it's prob something else......a simple adjustment for example. You should have inspection plates (about110x170mm) right at the back of the dozer.if you use a torch you'll be able to see the bands.have they got life left in them?.....have you removed the drain plug to that compartment?....is it 100% dry...no oil???? Just remember the golden rule STAY CALM.these things are actually quite simple to work on.not necessarily easy but simple. There's really knowledgable people on here that'll give good advice.I'm only a novice but have been having fun with a similar dozer.
 

OldandWorn

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Nov 12, 2009
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908
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Md/Pa
You should have inspection plates (about110x170mm) right at the back of the dozer.if you use a torch you'll be able to see the bands.

I wish you could have seen the look on my face when I read that. I was thinking.....now why would he need to cut a hole when there are inspection plates until I remembered torch is another word for a flashlight. :eek: A guy from South Africa taught me the meaning of that word years back and it finally clicked.
 

Old Magnet

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May 11, 2010
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Corralitos, California
Guess I'm late to the party on this one (as usual). The early D5's are nothing more than the old D6 (R and U series) back ends. The bottom screw is just a support for the brake band to keep the band from dropping down and riding on the drum. When your done with the brake work and adjustment, have someone press the brake pedal while you tighten the set screw then back off 1-1/2 turns and set the lock nut. Pretty straight forward job unless you don't deal with the bottom screw.

If the brake is not worn it may be oil soaked, often caused by leaking pinion seal/s. That's a dreaded job. LOL
 

d5cat

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Aug 3, 2010
Messages
34
Location
Iowa
Guess I'm late to the party on this one (as usual). The early D5's are nothing more than the old D6 (R and U series) back ends. The bottom screw is just a support for the brake band to keep the band from dropping down and riding on the drum. When your done with the brake work and adjustment, have someone press the brake pedal while you tighten the set screw then back off 1-1/2 turns and set the lock nut. Pretty straight forward job unless you don't deal with the bottom screw.

If the brake is not worn it may be oil soaked, often caused by leaking pinion seal/s. That's a dreaded job. LOL

When I started to take out the bolts for the top plate to adjust the right brake band I knew I was in trouble. There was oil on the threads. I lifted off the plate and everything was coated in oil. I think the final drive oil leaked into the brake compartment. I had to unscrew the bottom brake bolt to drain all the oil. That explains why the right brake completely stopped working.

I am also having trouble getting the left brake band tighter. I could feel plenty of pad on the band, but I can not get the top nut to tighten anymore. I can feel that the brake band is loose. It is almost like the top nut on the brake band is frozen.

Does anyone have ideas how to get rid of all the oil in my right brake compartment????? I am a feeling I am in trouble with this...
 
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