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JCB 525 Telehander - No foward drive

newty

Member
Joined
May 10, 2009
Messages
13
Location
UK
Good progress.

The grears on the fwd/rev pack should be locked to the relevent baskets. You need to remove the sealing rings from the ends of the pack and lever the bearings off. Start with a small chisel then get a heel bar each side and they should slide off easily. Then the clutch baskets should slide off each end.

Re: the pump see if there are any score marks between the face on the rear section of the pump and the gears.
also the shaft for the disk, is there wear where the taper roller bearing runs where it meets the other shaft, they tend to wear through the case hardening as they dont use and outer bearing case. And the nut in the center of the disk will just want nipping up when you re-install unless you replace the collapsable spacer that sits between the to shaft support bearings. You will see if if you fick out the seal and lift out the bearing.
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Dismantled the clutch assembly today (excluding pistons). Found that the friction plates were very much on their way out in one basket and completely non existent in the other. Also, the gear spline has sheered on one of the baskets (left basket in second photo below). Well Newty, your diagnosis has been correct on all counts, friction plates and a sheered spline from gear to basket :salute


Finally got to use a pair of large ratchet circlip pliers that I bought in a set. Thought I'd never get round to using them :thumbsup
DSCN0700.JPG

Sheered spline in basket and friction plates flaking in hand
DSCN0703.JPG

One set of counter plates has blued with heat
DSCN0704.JPG

Baskets and plates removed from shaft
DSCN0705.JPG

Checked end of disk shaft, can't see any wear or ridges in the raised bearing face.
DSCN0708.JPG

A couple of questions:

Is it worth stripping the pistons at this stage?
Do I replace all counter plates even though one set looks ok?
Do I replace both clutch baskets just in case?

I'd rather be sure and replace for long term.

This is my thinking on minimum parts list:
1no. New clutch basket
6no. Counter plates (1 set)
14no. Friction plates (2 sets)
1no. Disk shaft oil seal
1no. Disk shaft end nut
1no. Oil pump front seal
1no. Oil pump rear seal
2no. O'rings (main casing seals)
1no. Gear shift housing gasket
1no. Layshaft end plate gasket.
1no. Shuttle body gasket
1no. Strainer gasket
2no. Selector detent springs (whilst they're out)
1no. Exhaust gasket
1no. tube liquid gasket
15 litres? ATF Oil (not sure what type at the moment)
I already have some threadlock.

I'm happy to replace anything you guys think is worth replacing. What do you think?

Edit: Also checked back plate of oil pump and it has no scouring.
 
Last edited:

newty

Member
Joined
May 10, 2009
Messages
13
Location
UK
Hi,

Not the worst one ive seen. I had one where the counter plates welded them selfs together and put the box in constant drive.
I would remove the pistons as your this far and seem to have plenty of know-how. The generally end up becoming d section rather than o section over time.

The blue'd counter plates will be fine to go back in.
You will need the sealing rings on the ends of the shaft. If these fail you either end up with no drive or loss of pressure resulting in low clamping force on the plates whilst in drive thus buring the plates.
And the collapsable space of the disk shaft between the bearings.

Have you checked price/avalability of the clutch basket??
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Hi,

Not the worst one ive seen. I had one where the counter plates welded them selfs together and put the box in constant drive.
I would remove the pistons as your this far and seem to have plenty of know-how. The generally end up becoming d section rather than o section over time.

The blue'd counter plates will be fine to go back in.
You will need the sealing rings on the ends of the shaft. If these fail you either end up with no drive or loss of pressure resulting in low clamping force on the plates whilst in drive thus buring the plates.
And the collapsable space of the disk shaft between the bearings.

Have you checked price/avalability of the clutch basket??

That takes some doing to friction weld those disks together. I've seen over-heated clutches on enduro bikes, usually where someone has been stuck in a bog and cooked the clutch trying to get out. It can also be a problem in deep loose sand in the dunes for rallye raid bikes.

I've sent out a couple of emails for prices on basket, plates and gaskets for reassembly. I'll pm you where. I'll make sure I change the sealing rings at the same time.

I've not got a press here to push back the pistons but I have got a couple of good sash cramps that I'll bolt together. Be nice to complete the job. I'll have to also order the seals for the pistons too in that case.

I'm away this weekend so I'll probably have to do that Monday evening.
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Hi All,

Parts have arrived and seem to be in order. The sealing rings are the newer plastic type which I wasn't expecting but should be fine I guess.

DSCN0711.JPG

Just a quick question. Should I use a smear of grease on the clutch piston ORings to help fitting? I know some ORing's don't like grease.

Many thanks

Colin
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Hi all,

Just to let you know the 525hl was running around like a spring chicken today. I remounted the repaired box over the weekend and put some oil in it today. Forward, Reverse and all gears are working well. I can now select gears whilst the engine is running too. No forward tolt on starting either.

So a very big thank you to all that helped.

Just need to refurbish the breaks and change a front axle oil seal that's leaking now.

Once again, many thanks.
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,361
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Man, that's about the cleanest work bench I believe I have ever seen! :tong


Nice work cj-525hl, good to hear you got it all sorted out and working. ;)
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Many thanks Willie,

It was made all the easier from the help on this forum.

Now the bench can go back to being a dining room table!
 

StewieG

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
4
Location
OZ
Need help/a manual for/similar assitance to this post... with a jcb 525b-4hl :)

Hi guys! I just signed up because this forum/thread is about the best information i have found about jcb telehandlers....

The machine im working on for a friend has no drive at all... i cant select any gears... forward, reverse,4wd and 2wd... and all 4 gears dont make a difference to movement of the telehandler...

The clutch cable looks stretched... and when i put my foot on the clutch pedal it doesnt feel like its taking up enough to disengage... Could this be the problem? would that stop the box from selecting ANY gear/drive? Ive done the basics like check fluids etc... ive read about the gearbox oil strainer in previous post's and will check that once i have some diagrams/drawings/a manual so i know what im pulling apart! :) ive just raised the boom up and supported it so i can check it out, i really need a copy of a manual/exploded diagrams... is anyone able to assist?

cj-525hl if you still have that manual handy let me know!!! i google searched everywhere for manuals etc... and the only thing i found was microfisch copy's of the parts list on ebay :/

Thanks in advance!

Stew from down under :)
 

cj-525hl

Active Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
42
Location
France
Hi Stew,

My jcb 525 has a Syncro Shuttle Gearbox, there is no clutch cable just a commander lever by the stearing wheel that operates the shuttle valve to engage the forward or reverse clutch pack. The 'clutch pedal' is just a cut-off switch to the shuttle valve which replicates having the forward/reverse lever in neutral. I'll pm you the link to the manual I downloaded.

Hope this helps

cj

Edit. Stew, I think you need to enable 'Private Messages' function in your profile
 
Last edited:

StewieG

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
4
Location
OZ
Hey CJ! i checked my privacy settings and it appears i can recieve PM's from admin's and other members... but the funny thing is when i try and view my own profile it says i dont have permission to view my own profile??? heh... i think the mod has to do something with new accounts to accept them or something like that... if you want to email the manual to me.... stew@terminalsolutions.biz.nospam (remove the nospam bit) :)

Stew
 

StewieG

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
4
Location
OZ
So from my understanding... it might be related to the shuttle valve!!!!!!!!! :) the 525 im working on has been sitting there for YEARS! when it was left where it is now... it had issues getting into reverse... but would still get into forwards, the owner left it, and now it doesnt select any drive... im getting a friend to help me tomorrow so i can get him to try and actuate the forward/neutral/reverse selector manually... if that doesnt work, i might have to pull the box out...
 

Blastcleaner

New Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
Messages
1
Location
Sussex, UK
Hi guys,
I have been reading this thread, all too familiar, but my problems are not over yet.

I have a JCB Loadall 520M-2 pre telescopic boom and only 2 wheel drive, which dumped the syncro oil out of the bell housing.

I replaced the torque converter, oil pump and seal, put it all back together dry, but cant get the oil back in!

I have extended the filler pipe, removed every plug and pipe trying to get the air out and the oil in, even to drilling a hole in the top of the casing, ...... oil and a bit of air came out. I have got maybe 1.5 gallons in of the 4.5 gallons I need to get in.

I assume the fluid is not getting into the torque converter, but I am unsure about starting the engine, I assume the pump will push the oil into the torque converter but as I am not sure I dont want to start the engine for fear of damaging something running dry (we did grease the lip seal on the pump housing before inserting the torque converter.

Maybe I should have filled the torque converter before I fitted the syncro shuttle?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I have topped her up several times when she started to leak and no problems. But now, take a pipe off the oil cooler rad and the oil runs in (and out of the pipe) but both oil cooler pipes are at the bottom or the cooler and no way of filling it from the top or letting the trapped air out of the oil cooler to allow it ti fill up.

I would love to know where cj-525hl found a manual to download, my expensive handbook tells me nothing, just says fill it up. Not the same machine I know but if it covers the syncro shuttle it might have the answer I need.

Thanks in anticipation.
 

StewieG

New Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
4
Location
OZ
Hi Blastcleaner! the manual cj-525hl pointed me in the direction of is jcb_3cx_4cx_214_215_217_workshopmanual_sec_wat so its not specifically for 525's, and its more for JCB tractors, but the 525 has the same engine and gearbox oriented the opposite way around to a tractor... same drive train :)

Which box do you have? powershift or synchro shuttle?

pm me and i will provide you a link to download it at...
 

devereau

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2023
Messages
1
Location
michigan
This one get solved? Have a 525b -4. Drove both directions fine into barn in the fall - now no fwd or rev in late winter.
Seems to make some noise at solenoid on trans when actuating fwd/rev w/key on.
Wondering if that cut off switch may have failed keeping it in neutral ...per "The 'clutch pedal' is just a cut-off switch to the shuttle valve which replicates having the forward/reverse lever in neutral. "
Trans fluid measures high on stick... not red fluid... more clear like someone may have put hyd or engine olil in there.
Bought trans fluid filter... haven't drained yet.

...stuck in neutral Michigan style
 
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