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I think I need to make a ripper 'saw'

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Ripper Saw draws first Blood!
First Blood I.jpg Finally got this thing attached,if only for a trial run.I still need to make the bushings and sort out the geometry.
But it worked.
Ready.jpg The concave arc is a bit too much.With a simple 'up' movement of the boom,the arc mimics the boom motion and can pull away from the target.Maybe half as much arc would be good.
Victim.jpg I'm thinking now it could have been a foot longer.As it is I need to be very careful I don't poke my boom cylinder.
I worked on a 3-4 year old camphor sapling that was situated between a slab and a cyclone fence (about a 10" gap).It was tricky getting in there and I did manage to pick up the slab.And crack it! Da@@it!.
AuNaturell.jpg
Hope things are well for you folks down under & back east over here.
I think I got a little sunburned.
Poser.jpg
 

maddog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
730
Location
middle TN
Indeed!
You should see what I do with a weed wacker.Scares the neigbors.You don't se a trend here do you?;)

Just be carefull and keep check of the blade. I did the same thing, worked great until............... the day the blade snaped and shot accross the yard and stuck into a tree about waste high, glad no one was around.
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Good to see you got the ripper rigged up......Looks good
Thanks Danny,wish it had the panache of your projects.It's a start.
The geometry isn't right,the concave face of the rip/saw teeth mimic the bucket arc when you boom-up.This releases any pressure against the workpiece.
Compensating w/curl is limited by your access/approach to the work and complicates the process.I'm a simple home owner/operator so this needs some refinement.
I've since obtained a milling machine & lathe so I hope the drama re: pins & bushings is over.Found an old truck axle in the garage-look out!
:cool:
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Just be carefull and keep check of the blade. I did the same thing, worked great until............... the day the blade snaped and shot accross the yard and stuck into a tree about waste high, glad no one was around.
Waist High!!!
Ugh! Thanks for the warning MD.Maybe some chain maile chaps?
:cool:
Now if I could only get the ripper to spin. Mmm....
Thanks again.
 

Danny Steel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
190
Location
NW Ontario
Occupation
Farmer/Landscaper/Welder/Fitter
Ripper Saw draws first Blood!
View attachment 74949 Finally got this thing attached,if only for a trial run.I still need to make the bushings and sort out the geometry.
But it worked.
View attachment 74947 The concave arc is a bit too much.With a simple 'up' movement of the boom,the arc mimics the boom motion and can pull away from the target.Maybe half as much arc would be good.
View attachment 74946 I'm thinking now it could have been a foot longer.As it is I need to be very careful I don't poke my boom cylinder.
I worked on a 3-4 year old camphor sapling that was situated between a slab and a cyclone fence (about a 10" gap).It was tricky getting in there and I did manage to pick up the slab.And crack it! Da@@it!.
View attachment 74950
Hope things are well for you folks down under & back east over here.
I think I got a little sunburned.
View attachment 74948
I'm just looking at your ripper.......JMO......I would have not made the tip so pointed....Thats your weakest point from were I sit....If the point started at 3"....then curved back to the mount, It would save that tip from getting bent. On the other hand, It wouldent get between the roots as good as the way you haveIt....But just a thought...I can see that tip bending.......What grade of steel did you use?
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Hi Danny,
Nice to hear from you.
I used 3/4" AR-36.
At this point I just wanted to get something working.
I can see modding this to be a standard ripper and doing up another 'rip-saw' version.
Skies
Jay
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Hey Danny
Just a follow up-didn't get notified of your last PM till today.And am unable to edit my posts (edit tool not here).Thanks for the hardening tips.
I've been logging on to the 'Welding Web' & picking up info.Seems another hardening method is to heat your metal to some level of incandescence using a carburizing flame.
The idea being that the carbon from the flame infuses the metal surface.Appropriate tempering would be required also.
Skies.
Jay.
 

skbexcavating

Active Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Messages
36
Location
Washington State
Occupation
Deputy Sheriff
Those are some good ideas. HPF (Highline Portafab) makes a rake with a 'rooster head' splitter on the back of the center tooth. I used one on a EX200 I was clearing with. The thing works awesome. It easy to get all of the dirt out of the stump for burning.

I need a ripper for a few properties I have been working on so I decided to put that style of stump splitter on the back of it. I almost have all of the parts. I'll post a pick when it is done.

If I can expain this right: the back of the ripper will extend out in a curve from the back of the tiger tooth. The out side of the curve is serrated using pieces of 'wear guard' for sharp edges on the serrations. Then there are pieces of steel that 'V-out' on both sides if you were looking at it while sitting in the machine. After you saw through the stump a ways the bars engage the stump and split it. It works good for cutting roots to.

I can't decide if it is work the added expense to use T-1 for it since the ripper will be made of inch and a half anyway. They want $1.08 a pound for 1.5 T-1 plate and it weighs 61 pounds a square foot. Then I have to worry about messing it up when I weld it together.

1" x 6" x 1/4" pieces of that wear-guard are only 5 or 6 bucks. If you make them a little wider than the shank it will let you saw the stump without binding. Like the curf on a hand saw. Here is a link to a pictue of the full size on. It has the rake on it so picture it with out the rake part. It should do a number on the Alder around here.

http://www.hpf.com/_pic.asp?txt=Splitter+Rake&img=splitterRake_420.jpg
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Well.....let me try this again
Hello SKB, welcome to the board.
That's a wild looking bucket saw,reminds me of a Mel Gibson movie.Great idea! Let the roots hold'er steady while you split it up.
What material would you use if not T-1?Would it pay to use a cheaper,thicker material? I think I used AR-36.Not really sure if it's AR but it's apparently the toughest my steel guy carries.
Skies.
Jay
 

Danny Steel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
190
Location
NW Ontario
Occupation
Farmer/Landscaper/Welder/Fitter
Well.....let me try this again
Hello SKB, welcome to the board.
That's a wild looking bucket saw,reminds me of a Mel Gibson movie.Great idea! Let the roots hold'er steady while you split it up.
What material would you use if not T-1?Would it pay to use a cheaper,thicker material? I think I used AR-36.Not really sure if it's AR but it's apparently the toughest my steel guy carries.
Skies.
Jay

Hey there Jay I have never seen AR 36....But lots of A-36 (Mild Steel) .anyway I use thicker materal some times for that reason....as long as the extra weight wont be a factor
 

skbexcavating

Active Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Messages
36
Location
Washington State
Occupation
Deputy Sheriff
Thanks guys. I was also think of using AR. I might have to sit down with the steel guy after I make my patterns so he can give me a price on programming and burning it. He was talking under $100 for that part. I figure I'll spend a good part of that one gas not to mention time. I'll post up what the steel guy thinks.
 

skbexcavating

Active Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Messages
36
Location
Washington State
Occupation
Deputy Sheriff
I spoke with the steel guy about T-1 and AR. After a conversation about my welding experience he told me that I would have no problem working with the T-1. So I just need to figure out if I am going with 2' or 1.5. It is $1.08 a pound with the plates weighing 81 and 61 pounds a square foot respectively. So I am looking at about $500 for the steel. I have all the stock to make the quick change adapter to fit my machine, the shank and a tiger for the ripper point. I need to scale up my drawing and see how small of a square I can fit them on! Between steel and diesel I am going to be in the poor house.

I found some cool stuff for a cutting edge on the teeth. I was looking at your saw and thought it would work good on it. I certainly would add a lot of life to your saw. It is narrow strips of 'Wear Guard". The stuff they use on the mining buckets and machines. I bought some 1" by 4" strips then cut them into one inch squares (approx). Then I welded them onto the face of the teeth of the side cutters I made for my bucket. They worked great. You have to be carefull of how hot you get them when you weld them on, but other than that, they went on easy. I tried to post a photo on the other thread I started, but I can only get the link to past in the thread, not the photo. Take a look at it if you get time and tell me what you think.

After looking at your saw I think I am going to put teeth on the front of my ripper-splitter too. Combine the ripper, splitter and your saw all in one attachment.

Have a good one.


OOPS. I can tell I am tired and just got off work. I read my previous post on this thread and this one repeats half of what I put in the other post. Oh well. I never clamed to be too smart!
 
Last edited:

Scrub Puller

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
3,481
Location
Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . . Old thread I know but have you blokes thought about cutting edge?

I made a doover to go on a sixty hp wheel tractor for cutting tree-roots along the edge of golf-course fairways . . . I just flame cut it out of used D9 cutting edge with pretty aggressive two inch teeth . . . blown and then ground to a sharp edge with a ten inch grinder.

It worked well and cost nothing but gas and a few of hours time.

Cheers.
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Hello Pondo,
No updates at this time,just some thinking.I would like to add a tooth and use some of that "wear guard" that skb mentioned for the cutting edge and re-profile the arc.
Aside from needing to repair some leaking cylinders I Really want to fabricate a quick change system for my TB-016.
I have an auger,the ripsaw,and after some repairs/modification,I'll have a plate vibrator to attach.
Skies
Jay
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Hey Scrub,
That sounds like a smart project,you should post a photo or two.
Where does a fella find used D9 cutting edge?
Oh wait a minute,you run a 60hp wheel tractor on a golf course!? Must be an April fool's joke eh?
Cheers back at ya.
Jay
 

Scrub Puller

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
3,481
Location
Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . . AirBorneOne Sorry mate, it was years ago no piccys.

Old Massey with a bucket was pretty handy.

Any sort of used cutting edge would do . . . maybe council/county or local contractor? Even if you have to pay scrap price it is still pretty cheap high grade steel.

Cheers.
 

AirBornOne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
146
Location
S.F.Bay Area
Ripper/Saw strikes again!

The owners of the vacant lot behind me we're instructed by the city to perform some abatement.Seems some 'locals' liked to hide in the bamboo & perform various native rituals. :rolleyes:
However,the palm was neglected.
I fixed that. ;)
Bolted up the ripper saw and proceeded to prune the palm. Actually had to use the blade to stretch up for the higher branches.
And while the rip/saw had no trouble grabbing onto any of the branches,my 'temporary' mounting worked lose in no time,letting the ripper dangle @ various angles-slipping down the branch.
I so need a QC...:cool:
Kinda liked the sound a palm branch makes as it snaps.
I tried to get some action photos but the ripper virtually disappeared once in the canopy.
Ta for now and be sure to remember those that made our freedom a reality & those that have,and continue to,ensure our ongoing freedoms
:usa
From the top... TB016 meets palm tree; Ripper Saw poised for action; Palm Carnage;Daylight.The locals are such artists:rolleyes:
 

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