Did some work on the old 58CK yesterday.

Well after getting this old girl this spring, this is the first time I have gotten to dig in and get some filters changed!! Hit up the Case dealer yesterday and picked up some filters. Replaced the fuel filters, shuttle filter, and the PS pump filter. I also need to do the main hydrolics, but they listed two diferent ones, and I did not have the numbers on the loader with me.

First offf... I dont think the fule filters had been done in a LONG time!!!! Lots of crud, and grit in the housings. Also the lower filter [the primary I belive] was REAL nasty!!!!!!!!!!!! Cleaned it all out, and also drained the water trap. I gotta say she runs better. Its always been a good runner, but using it last night I found myself running it about 500rpms higher then I normaly did. It was so much smoother, I did not notice it was running higher speeds.

The shuttle filter helpped also. In the cold [in the 30's] it would take the normal 5 min or so of warm up to move. Well after the change, it moved in less then a min!!!

And last... the PS pump filter... I had a slow leek at the pump that required me to keep adding fluid once in a wile... Well.. the last time someone was in the pump, they cut the Oring. No leaks now.

So I gotta say... a hour or so work, and $65 gave me a nice running tractor. Im a happy camper.

More work yesterday!!!!

I fixed the headlights. It was butcherd wiring, and a bad switch. and started wiring for rear warming flashers. I also plan to add two small taillights and a work light to the rear. Working on some kinda a box to mount all the switches in now.

Glad to hear you got noticeable improvements from fluid and filter changes, I have to do this to my 580.

It was not that hard to do at all. They designed it right. Easy to service.

I picked up some switches, and a mounting box yesterday. Im going to mount the box in the cab and hook up switches for the flashers, taillights, and the wiper motor.

it makes a huge difference, I did that to my ford in october, Now I have lights, glow plug works, idiot lights work, alternator charges. Did it to my MF tractor too, someone had the voltage regulator wired wrong and it would kill the battery in about 3 days, I think I have went through 3 or 4 batteries in the the past 3 years.

Next project is my case forklift, nothing electrical works at all, the panel with all the switches is just hanging by its wires, the screws are snapped off to boot. Should be fun.

Started work on the lights...

What year is that CK? Mine is an early 70's from what I can tell. I don't think I have a PS filter that's external anyplace. I do change the trans filter annually as well as the hydraulic filter on the loader arm. For rear lights I added a Hella flood light to the dipper aimed right toward the bucket, makes night work a lot easier. I need to repair my ignition and headlight wiring as well this weekend. It looks like with 4 bolts the whole dash comes off. Mine is also pretty slow to move when its cold, sounds like pump cavitation so I let it warm up for a while first.

That box doesn't look too water tight. Corrosion could be a problem with those switches..

kanewolf said:

That box doesn't look too water tight. Corrosion could be a problem with those switches..

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Well thre is sort of a cab and there are two solutions, a little gasket around the box and get some cole-hersee switch covers or swing by napa and get some cole-hersee waterproof switches. As long as they don't get full of ice and water and sit, generally I've not ever had a problem with a non sealed switch.

I don't think I have a PS filter that's external anyplace

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The filter is bult into the PS pump. You remove the resavor and its in there.

Its not tightly sealed, but does have a lip on the inside. That and being touched into the corner of the cab, I think it will be OK. My plan is that if it does get damp at all to attach a small rubber flap on it to cover the switches.

I'll have to look at mine close and see if I can get to it. I bet you'll be fine. I love my old machine where you have to feather the all boom controls but when you jump on a new machine its sooo easy! Last year I dug 1200 feet of 7' deep trench through hardpan for my neighbor (geothermal heat pump) , could dig about 80-100 feet an hour but it completely wore out a set of bucket teeth and only blew two hoses, replaced 4 hoses. Digs just as fast at half throttle compared to full but uses a lot less gas. I'm going to check my trans fluid again to see if I can find out why its misbehaving when its cold.

fast_st said:

I'll have to look at mine close and see if I can get to it. I bet you'll be fine. I love my old machine where you have to feather the all boom controls but when you jump on a new machine its sooo easy! Last year I dug 1200 feet of 7' deep trench through hardpan for my neighbor (geothermal heat pump) , could dig about 80-100 feet an hour but it completely wore out a set of bucket teeth and only blew two hoses, replaced 4 hoses. Digs just as fast at half throttle compared to full but uses a lot less gas. I'm going to check my trans fluid again to see if I can find out why its misbehaving when its cold.

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Here is how its set up. .... You can see the acorn nut on the end of the pump. You take that off, and the resavore comes off. Just a heads up... disconnect the battery. Its tight in there, and the starter is real close!!!! The other pic you can see the filter.... there is a spec for tighting that filter holddown nut... I dont have that with me at this time though.. but this will give you a idea where it is, and how to do it.

Aye, that's my pump in the original flambeau red. I'll have to go exploring, the other leak to take care of, remaining, 1 outrigger and the PS pistons. the boom must have a nick as it weeps just a bit but the outrigger will drizzle and oil is way more expensive than seal kits. I also have to sneak past a distributor cap

Im not worryed about the seals weeping on mine... its the spewing hoe valve block that I worry about. The weeping rams I chalk up to preventing rust.