Common loader weld repair on Bobcat

I have run into this so many times, I think it is worth pointing out. On every model of Bobcat that uses the single tilt cylinder this is the weak spot, especially on the 864 and T200 Track machines. But the rubber tire machines are just as prone to breaking here. Notice in the two repair pictures that they wrapped the boss with rebar rod (T200), this repair actually held for many hours.. The single repair is just a re-weld over a crack on a 863. I have seen guys add a lot of fish plating to the sides to reinforce the boss.
Accumac

yeah thats pretty common on the single lft cylinder design also the 873 booms crack back by hte lift cylinders booms spread over time i have seen the pin boss's by the bobtach crack also seen 1 boom brake above the bobtach pin boss;s on a t190

On my 863 on the tilt piston lower bracket i have a lot of play, what is the best way to fix it ? pin is OK very little wear , but the ear is oval .

Send in a picture if you get the chance, there are people on this forum that will have better repair advise than me. I am not a machinist or a welder, however, I have seen other people cut off the boss and weld new boss members into place on the quick attach plate. Also, look for a used quick attach plate from a skid steer junk yard, they go quick but if you leave your name with them they may call you. Good luck. Accumac

I am going to try rimming the whole and insert bushings , hope that works .

Hi,

I am new to this forum and thought I might start out by providing some repair information that I hope others might be able to use. Later when I am able to post my own questions, you guy's will probably wonder if I even know how to start my 1845C.

Anyways, my real full time job is being a maintenance tech for a very large distribution center, and my side job is welding and fabrication. One of my customers operates a construction business, and I have repaired 2 of his Bobcats with the same problem as in the above post and photos. On each side of the cylinder bushing I welded in some 2 piece reinforcement brackets. The reason they were made in 2 pieces was because I could not get a sharp enough radius on the bend when I first attempted it. It has been a while, but if I remember correctly the brackets were made from 3/8" cold rolled steel plate. Knowing that bushing replacement may be needed down the road, I removed the existing bushings, and had a machine shop make I guess you would call them over length bushings. I then welded the bushings and reinforcement brackets on with 3/32" Excelloy 61S rods. The reason I chose this particular rod was because I was not sure of the alloy properties of the parent metal. The 61S rod is a high tensile strength (up to 128,000 psi) and high yield strength (up to 90,000 psi). It also has up to 30 percent elongation which is good when dealing with unknown or dissimilar alloys. It also has a work hardness of up to 198,000 psi. This rod is actually designated as a stud pull rod used for removing broken studs, bolts, taps, and the notorious for snapping off easy outs. I have even removed 3/8" bolts that were broken off 2 inches below the surface. Anyways, I feel that this rod is perfect for this type of repair because the reason for failure is mostly due from metal fatigue. A welding alloy with a high elongation spec usually works fairly well in areas that are prone to flexing and fatigue. Although, I would think that Bobcat would be more concerned about areas that should not really be flexing at all. Sorry about rambling on about the rod and alloy info. I do have some photos and drawings of the reinforcement brackets if I can find them, and will post them when I am allowed to do so......in 2 more replies I think.

I think this is a very organized site, with many very knowledgeable people, and look forward to tapping into some of this experience if the need arises for my 1992 Case 1845C with 1827 original hours on it.

razvy said:

I am going to try rimming the whole and insert bushings , hope that works .

Click to expand...

Yes just cut out the old pin boss and weld in a new one. Tack it up good first and try it to be certain it is located just right. Then tack some cross bracing on it for the final weld, so the bosses don't pull out of alignment and you can't get the pin through after. It is pretty straight forward, never had a problem after this procedure.
Ken

Scavenger that is an excellent description of what to do and why, looking forward to your pictures. Accumac

Weld repair

To ensure you get good penetration "V" out the crack with a grinder. Run a multiple pass weld with a high tensile strength rod. Then grind the plate flat and add a fish plate over top.

Scott
Welders360.com