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If you get a chance, go to http://iconbuildings.com/pricebuilding/default.aspx



They have a neat online calculator that gives you pricing on the spot after you enter in all your desired building specs, zipcode, etc.. It gets you pretty close to what a metal building kit will cost you. You add the windows, doors or whatever you need and the online calculator gets you a price. I bought one from there 2 years ago, they knocked off 5 or 10 percent of the online calculator price, which was cheap to begin with. I bought a 50 x 100 @ 12' eve. Nothing came up short as far as the contents of the kit. A guy charged me 7500 to put it up including the anchor bolt setup. Would buy again. :drinkup

King of Obsolete said:

the rail way rails are a good idea. my dad at the college in brandon manitoba has thm in the shop. but you need a good concrete man because concrete expands and will cover the rails. that is what happened to my ex-brother inlaw.
also check in to a pit, buddy barry has a pit and it is handier then a pocket on a shirt. if you make a pit, make it long and with a sump pump. the top edge has to have thick angle iron so you can jack up equipment and use cross beams.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

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to have a pit here, if you are goind to have workers use it, you need it ventalated, explotion proof lighting and plugs, and be tested for gases regulary. It would be cheaper to have a host big enough for gravel trucks $12000-20000 depending how fancy

We put in a pit and its the best thing we did. Its hard for this fat kid to get under those lowboys. My only regret is it isn't long enough

the pit at buddy barry's shop is used from everything from small cars to the d6r (when he had one rented). the pit is so handy compared to lying on a creeper and rolling under a vehicle.

thansk
KoO
Published Author

We have a 60' by 100' steel building. We put in natural gas radient heat. Best money we spent, pull in a machine when it is zero degrees with the heat set at fifty within an hour you can go lay your bare hand on it and feel warmth. Biggest regret not putting in a pit.

diggin02 said:

One neat idea I ran across was putting railroad rails in the floor about a 1/4" higher than the floor surface. Perfect for driving dozers on. We all know too well how hard those single grousers can be on a nice floor. Of course this idea was brought to me about a month after we were in our new shop.

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We have never put anything down on the concrete and it still looks great!!
Use high psi good quality concrete and finish it nice and smooth. Have you ever seen the floor in a dealership's shop? I have never seen them put anything down and most floors I see look great also. I have actually drove in forward on our concrete counter rotated the tracks and drove back out. I will take pics of our concrete to show how they have held up.

but we also dont have HUGE equipment either

Also dont know how many people you have employed for you but check the regulation's on pits. Labor and industry requires the pit to be barricaded off to their specs when not in use.

Serv said:

If you get a chance, go to http://iconbuildings.com/pricebuilding/default.aspx



They have a neat online calculator that gives you pricing on the spot after you enter in all your desired building specs, zipcode, etc.. It gets you pretty close to what a metal building kit will cost you. You add the windows, doors or whatever you need and the online calculator gets you a price. I bought one from there 2 years ago, they knocked off 5 or 10 percent of the online calculator price, which was cheap to begin with. I bought a 50 x 100 @ 12' eve. Nothing came up short as far as the contents of the kit. A guy charged me 7500 to put it up including the anchor bolt setup. Would buy again. :drinkup

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Great link Thanks:drinkup

Hey Tim, ask your mechanic! He knows his stuff and he is a pretty decent shot as well. He proved it yesterday!

tripper_174 said:

Hey Tim, ask your mechanic! He knows his stuff and he is a pretty decent shot as well. He proved it yesterday!

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what are you talking about???

I second putting hugh jazz steel plates down on the floor in one bay. The other upside is if you get something REALLY bent up you can weld down cleats and tie downs and start pulling and pressing and beating.

The other upside is if you need to build a chassis for a custom car project being able to tack and measure off of a known true surface makes everything much easier to get true.

when your done you can Carbon arc the d rings off and grind down the welds and have a nice smooth plate again.