• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Trouble Identifying Your Bucket Teeth?

E

equippartsdir

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
63
Location
OHIO
I commented on a previous post where someone was inquiring about a Caterpillar Style Bucket Tooth. The post included a Cat P/N which makes the demand very easy to address. I've run into so many guys that have no clue as to what design (manufacturer) or size bucket tooth they have. I've been been contemplating whether it might be beneficial to develop a "Bucket Tooth Identification Link", on our website, to better promote our capabilities.
All input would be appreciated.
 
O

okey

Member
Joined
May 6, 2006
Messages
24
Location
NE Mo.
I hear you, DarrylMueller. I have had countless arguments with people, (a lot being mechanics), about the proper installation of excavator and backhoe teeth. And its not that they get it right 50% of the time........ they get it wrong 99% of the time! I have some pics of new teeth that were installed, by mechanics, upside down with the word TOP cast in them.:Banghead I'll try to post them some time.
 
Last edited:
eRay

eRay

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2008
Messages
63
Location
Southeast Tennessee
That sounds like a great idea for beginners like me. If you want to be even more helpful show some tips on how to get the flex pins out of series 23 teeth to change them. I bought a pin punch and have wore out a 20 Ounce ball peen hammer and still have not gotten the pin out.
 
willie59

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,394
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
eRay said:
That sounds like a great idea for beginners like me. If you want to be even more helpful show some tips on how to get the flex pins out of series 23 teeth to change them. I bought a pin punch and have wore out a 20 Ounce ball peen hammer and still have not gotten the pin out.
Click to expand...

You could look at the Pinsmaster pin removal/installation tool www.pinmaster.com. What I usually do is get the tooth "out of my way", after all, if I'm replacing it, that means it's junk anyway. Take a cutting torch and remove the metal of the tooth behind the pin, the metal of the tooth that the pin uses to keep the pin on the shank. Once you've cut out this metal "bridge" behind the hole in the tooth, smack it with a hammer and get the tooth out of your way, now your just dealing with a pin in a shank. Then I usually don't have much problem getting the pin out of the shank. ;)
 
Canadian_digger

Canadian_digger

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
811
Location
Ontario
eRay said:
That sounds like a great idea for beginners like me. If you want to be even more helpful show some tips on how to get the flex pins out of series 23 teeth to change them. I bought a pin punch and have wore out a 20 Ounce ball peen hammer and still have not gotten the pin out.
Click to expand...

I wish I had your problem. I anything I find they come out to easy and the shanks are not worn out. We do dig in a lot of rocky soil though.
 
J

JIMCO

Member
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
20
Location
Central NH
Canadian_digger said:
I wish I had your problem. I anything I find they come out to easy and the shanks are not worn out. We do dig in a lot of rocky soil though.
Click to expand...

I agree. My teeth are new Hensley x290 n a Geith bucket with very little use. 1200 hrs on machine. I,m tired of losing $70. teeth in the loam pile. What is the trick???
 
E

equippartsdir

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
63
Location
OHIO
JIMCO,
You shouldn't be losing teeth if the pins are driven in to the correct depth. I think Geith is using genuine Hensley but even they are bringing in most of their garden variety stuff in from China now. No telling if it's a quality problem. Interestingly enough though, they haven't lowered the price!
 
J

JIMCO

Member
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
20
Location
Central NH
You got that right. doubled from last year. I'm using two types of pins. One with rubber sandwiched between to steel pieces. And anouther all steel with a tang that snaps into place. The rubber one is very difficult to install. On occation desroying the rubber installing it. And the solid one with a tang, once the tooth get into some hard diggin the tang bends and falls out. I'm thinking about bolting them in but a 5/8 is to tight and the 1/2 is to loose. 9/16 would the cure but my local hardware store doesn't have them in G8. Any other pin types out there one might suggest? The bolts will certainly make a statement....one I choose not to make.
 
E

equippartsdir

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
63
Location
OHIO
JIMCO,
Not sure what your running into but my suggestion would be to tack weld both the top and the bottom of the pin. Don't go to nuts because you'll have to grind off the welds to change teeth. Most importantly, get some preheat into the teeth/pin prior to welding. Moisture resides in steel and you need to get it out prior to welding. Otherwise, the hydrogen {contained in water} sets up in the weld and it fails due to hydrogen embrittlement. You'll still lose the teeth and continue to spend big $$$. NEVER DIG WITH BARE SHANKS! You'll be creating an even bigger problem with tooth retention.
 
J

JIMCO

Member
Joined
May 11, 2008
Messages
20
Location
Central NH
Thanks for the reply. I never dig without a tooth on the shank. Also the information on welding will be very helpful. That was something I didn't know.Thanks again
 
E

equippartsdir

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
63
Location
OHIO
Forgot to mention, only weld on the K290S Steel Pin, not the P330 or P330STP Rubber/Steel Combo Pins. Youl'll melt the rubber inlay and defeat the purpose.
 
B

buckfever

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
813
Location
southwest pa
the rubber pins sound like the same ones on our 310 se backhoe. There junk and even in new shanks if you star digging ind hard rock they break and pop out. As for the bolts we started using stainless steel bolts and nuts. held great but i don't care what someone thinks of a little redneck ingenuity. Our geith bucket on both our ex's have hensliey shanks but there 294's and we've never had a problem with the pins on thoses.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top