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Good healthy carnage

OzDozer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
2,274
Location
Perth, Western Australia.
Occupation
Semi-Retired ..
I picked up a Chamberlain tractor for a song, because it had a nice front end loader in it, it had a 6 cyl Perkins, it had a cabin, and it was a great tractor in its day - although they're classed as vintage/classic today.

The old guy who owned it said the engine wouldn't turn over, although they'd tried dragging it in gear around a field, to try and start it!
So I got it into my yard, and started on what I knew would be a full and major rebuild.

The Bad:

It had about 30 litres (7.8 U.S. gallons) of water above the pistons, and about 20 litres (5.3 U.S. gallons) in the crankcase! And it had been in there for years!

The cylinder head had multiple valves corroded to the extent that they wouldn't move.

The intake hose between aircleaner and engine had multiple holes in it, and some of those holes you could poke two fingers through them.

The rocker gear was covered in rust. Amazingly, it cleaned up O.K. with some caustic soda treatment. Kudos to the oil brand, the protection it provided was amazing.

Four pushrods were badly rusted, and because they were pitted after cleanup, I decided to buy 4 new ones. Didn't want to risk a bent pushrod after a rebuild, because of pitting in the tubing.

All the timing gears and the crankshaft gear were rusted beyond re-use, they were scrap.

I don't know what they used for coolant, but it appears the only requirement was, that it had to look like a liquid. Some of the coolant passageways were almost totally blocked.

I had to hammer an 8mm (5/16") rod into the rear lower part of the block for a couple of hours to clean out the ferric corrosion buildup.
That's the water outlet in the pic below, with the remnants of the thermostat. The water pump was locked up solid with corrosion.

All six pistons were rusted solid in their bores. 3 weeks of soaking in a 50/50 ATF/diesel mix got them loosened up enough to move.
Despite about .030" wear in the bores, it still took me the best part of a day to hammer the pistons and rods out of the block!

Once the pistons were out, there were 4 pistons with multiple broken rings, and 2 pistons where the rings had broken right up, and had started to make their way out the exhaust!

The crankcase had about 25mm (1") of pure sludgy, near-solid crud in it.
The clutch was worn down that much, the rivet heads on the linings were nearly gone!

The transmission was also half full of water, and the countershaft was badly corroded, and was locked up solid! (no photos of that yet).

On the engine, one of the two CAV fuel filter housings was gone completely! Thrown away and bypassed with a piece of PVC hose!!?

The crankshaft had "30/30" written on it with a paint pen. Uh-oh, that has nothing to do with a Winchester rifle bore! - that meant the crank was ground .030" on both mains and big ends! And those bearing surfaces were badly in need of a grind!

And guess what? Yep, you can't get .040" undersize bearings for the 6.354 Perkins!
So - it was go looking for a replacement crankshaft.

The Good:

After a fruitless search for a good used crankshaft, I stumbled over an agricultural parts supplier in Czechia who could supply a brand new German-made crank for AU$950 air-freighted to my door! Woo-hoo!

I picked up a new crankshaft gear locally (AU$100), and all three timing/camshaft gears in excellent used condition, for AU$150 - from the U.K. (via eBay).

I scored a new unused Perkins engine rebuild kit, from a guy who had bought it, and never used it - for AU$900. A big saving on current retail pricing - and that price was delivered to my door.

A new water pump kit was just AU$100. The water pump cleaned up nicely in the citric acid bath.

The engine has unflanged, press-fit dry liners, and a little judicious welding saw them all shrink and tap out nicely.

A good local engine shop has now installed the new (semi-finished) liners, machined them, faced the top of the block, machined the new pistons to meet the correct piston-to-head clearance - and I'm just awaiting some new conrod bushings, so I can start reassembly!

I don't want to even count the number of hours that has gone into this tractor already - like all machinery restorations, it's going to be a labour of love!
 

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OzDozer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
2,274
Location
Perth, Western Australia.
Occupation
Semi-Retired ..
And more ....

(The amazing part about this stripdown, is the fact that the previous owner had tried to get the engine to START, by dragging it around his field in gear!! There are some people who should never be allowed to own machinery!)
 

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OzDozer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
2,274
Location
Perth, Western Australia.
Occupation
Semi-Retired ..
I wonder just how far you have to drag a trailer to wear hubs and rims away like that? Got to be many, many kilometres.
And surely the sparks would give you some clue? Trouble is, a lot of "steering wheel attendants" don't have any clues.

A good friend drove from the West Coast of Australia to the East Coast around 1982, crossing the endless Nullarbor Plain on the way.
As he's driving along, he sees a caravan (trailer home) ahead. As he gets closer, it's got a lean on it, and it's throwing out sparks - lots of sparks!

He gets up close behind it, and the caravan is missing the LH rear wheel - and the hub! And the end of the axle is dragging on the road!

So he passes the rig, and it's an 83 yr old gent driving a Landcruiser. My friend waves madly, and finally gets the message to the old fella, he has to stop!

So he stops, and they both get out and examine the damage. About 9" is missing off the end of the axle, and the leaf spring has gotten so hot, it got to red heat, and bent over in a reversed shape!

The old fella looks at the wreckage in wonder and says, "Gee! I knew it was pulling a bit hard! I thought it was the strong headwind! I had to go down a gear!" :rolleyes:
 

couesaddict

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2023
Messages
107
Location
Arizona
Was the person that heard the Tink in the next county? Pic makes it look like 1 and 6 are pretty scored too? 6 is usually the first to go thanks to getting the least amount of air and the hottest coolant thanks to the others preheating it before it sees it. Just so happens I’ve been working on my old 95 12 valve that’s been sitting for years on the weekends lately. I’m hoping it never tinks like that!
 
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