Case 580D Swing Cylinder Rebuild - Stuck Con Glands - Any tips?

I couldn't get the "con gland" (part 4 in the photos / diagram) out while the cylinders were on the backhoe (I tried that first), so now I have them off and need to tray and get them loose. (for the tribulations getting them off, see here . . . https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-cylinder-pin-580d.105950/page-2#post-1219750 )

This is what I'm trying to get off.


(I guess it's called a CON Gland?)



These are the tools I tried with the cylinders on the backhoe - couldn't get enough purchase / torque.


These "con glands" just aren't the easiest design to remove if they're stuck. It's not the same as a stock bolt or nut. Anyway . . .

Anyone have any tips or tricks for this? Both from the perspective of keeping it steady to apply torque, and how to apply the necessary torque. I'm thinking I'm going to heat both and douse with lubricant before I try again. I may actually set the end in a bucket of penetrating oil after heating it to see if that helps.

Depending on how bad it gets I may tap the Con Gland holes to try and thread bolts in there to better keep a grip . . . but I'm worried if I try to tap for threads I may ruin the piece, which would probably scrap the whole cylinder (not sure i could find just a "con gland" for sale).

Thank you for any thoughts.

I've used a large pipe wrench with a 12' snipe and also once used my gland wrench with a 12' snipe. They can sure be a bear to get loose.

It does seem like the Gland is a little raised from the cylinder, so a pipe wrench may be possible. And maybe I can even add some material to get a better purchase if necessary (attach something to the gland to give more purchase).

I'm not familiar with the term "snipe" - what is that? I would think it might be a typo but you used pipe in the same sentence, so I think you meant snipe.

Thank you.

Not being a smartass, but you did remove the little keeper screw from the cylinder/gland right. The consensus here for a difficult gland is the "peening" method that involves tapping the outside of the cylinder/gland with ball-peen hammer at the threads to loosen it up. Used a 4 ft. pipe wrench on the gland when doing them on several cylinders before with great success, just be careful not to chowder the gland. Snipe probably = extension.

Not taken as smartass at all, as I have forgotten to remove the keeper screw before . . . but these cylinders don't have them.

I will definitely try the "peening" method - I was not aware of that.

4' pipe wrench sounds effective. It sounds like you guys aren't having trouble getting purchase on the gland, vice the cylinder. Good to know.

And when I say "don't have them" - I mean they're not present. They should be, but they're not. When I put them back together I'll have to find the proper set screw.

Just checkin', sometimes they're even broken off but will still set high enough to drive you nuts. When you do the peening, do it all the way around cylinder at least far enough to cover the entire gland. Hammer the crap out of it but be careful not to hammer the end out of round. If you're really ambitious you can search for previous threads that have pictures and everything. EDIT: peen the crap out of it gently.

I know this is posted elsewhere, but just as easy to put it here again.

Dont be shy with the hammer!

Swetz said:

I know this is posted elsewhere, but just as easy to put it here again.

Dont be shy with the hammer!

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Love it, thank you. I'll give this a shot.

Tinkerer said:

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Thank you for providing that specific explanation (from 2009 no less!) - I will forego heat and try this first.

Thanks to everyone who has offered advice on this.

Please make sure there is no broken off screw as all my Case cylinders have had them so far.
The stabilizer cylinders had both broken off and they were hard to spot.
I drilled them out and the gland nuts spun off by hand with the tool.

HarleyHappy said:

Please make sure there is no broken off screw as all my Case cylinders have had them so far.
The stabilizer cylinders had both broken off and they were hard to spot.
I drilled them out and the gland nuts spun off by hand with the tool.

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Will do!

If it's banged up from rocks where the two surfaces meet I've taken an angle grinder with a cutoff blade and ground lightly all the way around with the edge toward the cylinder to remove any burrs from dings that could impede loosening the end cap.

Took 2 guys on the end of an 8 ft pipe on the gland wrench to break my dipper cylinder gland free. Had to heat and tap with hammer as described earlier. Left it on the machine to hold the other end. Then I brought to the hydraulic shop because I couldn’t get the piston nut off. He told me they never heat as it could deform. Guess I was lucky. Used penetrating oil as well. Shop owner told me they have some kind of special machine or tool for gland removal but I would have liked to see it.

He told me the torque number it was capable of but I only remember it was very impressive

Actually just remembered, had a come along pulling down on the pipe to my truck trailer hitch. Heated, stood on the tailgate and hit the end of the pipe with a sledge to get break free.

m002922 said:

Will do!

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i'm new to the backhoe world and cylinder
repair. where it's the screw that breaks off located. my new to me 580D has a cylinder
on the backhoe leaking that i'll need to repair soon.

My “K” glands have a little set screw on the edge of gland where it meets the cylinder. Can’t miss it unless it’s full of dirt and painted yellow. Anyone with a “D”?

My Case 580 E has little machine screws with 5/16” heads and I believe 8/32 threads. When the heads are broke off and cylinder ends are banged up, they can be hard to spot.
One of my stabilizers, PO had rotated it so it was on the inside so I had to take cylinder off and rotate to drill it out and then it spun off.
The only reason I found it was one of the rags caught a thread on the stub and there it was.