Takeuchi TL 140 Fuel shut off Solenoid

Looking for a better quality fuel shut off solenoid than the Chinese holdwell knock offs that seem to be all I can find other then going to the dealer for $500

I have burned up 2 of the cheapies in fairly short order. The switch portion (black lump of wiring) that changes it from the pull to the hold solenoid is melting down.

When I replaced the Woodward I was an idiot and threw the bad one away when the holdwell fit and worked thinking I would not need it. When the first holdwell burned out, I learned I did not have enough of a part # to get a Woodward, and Woodward was not able to provide the #s that I would need.

So, looking for suggestions. What I see at the moment

Another Chinese
$500 new from Dealer
Try and find a used one (any leads?)
Put an old school cable control on it (going to be very difficult to get to fuel control and mount it.
Cut switching unit off existing solenoid and wire in a direct hot button to activate it and leave hold solenoid wired to switch. (would also act as a theft deterrent)
Fabricate or adapt some other more common and readily available solenoid to do the job (think I would rather just cable it if doing that much work)

Any thoughts on why they are burning up or could it be something I am doing wrong other than buying Chinese parts?

Thanks for your time.

PJ Power Inc. Ocala Fla.
If its a 3 wire sol.... There is usually a relay that does the switching.. not done internally.

Yup, $447 @ my Takeuchi dealer

I8-97376-9381

How fast did they burn up? Minutes or days? If it's a 3 wire solenoid with a red black and white, the black wire is ground the red is constant 12 volts and the white is only momentary 12 volts for the pull. Just make sure the white wire doesn't have constant 12 volts oh, if it does the solenoid will burn up within minutes

AND.. IF its the 1 I'm thinking about, it HAS TO BE adjusted/set to THAT machine..
{if it has a rubber boot & 2 jam nuts on the shaft}
OTHERWISE it'll burn up QUICK.. There SHOULD BE a note in the box..
The "plunger" HAS TO bottom out in the "case".. & that's how u adjust it.. w/the 2 jam nuts.

Like I said, the plunger HAS TO be bottomed in the case inorder for it to last..
It may "look like" its bottomed to the untrained eye but it' snot ..lol
The way I do it is.. disconnect it from the S/O shaft & pull the SOL. shaft in till it bottoms in the case..
Now pull the s/o shaft to the OFF position & LOOK at the 2 to see if the holes line up..
IF NO, that's the problem w/ burning them up.. & adj. by loosening the 2 jam nuts,{should be 10mm}
& turning the shaft to meet the s/o lever holes.
Check & re-check your adjustment..
Good luck &I hope this helps..

I love these threads. STOP buying the Chinese look-a-likes for $100.00. I just went through this on an Ingersol roller. Buy the OEM solenoid and do EXACTLY what TPG said in the set-up.

Alan Bechard said:

Another Chinese

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HELL NO!

Alan Bechard said:

$500 new from Dealer

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DEFINATELY!

Alan Bechard said:

Put an old school cable control on it (going to be very difficult to get to fuel control and mount it.

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NAH, its a pain in the ass.

Alan Bechard said:

Cut switching unit off existing solenoid and wire in a direct hot button to activate it and leave hold solenoid wired to switch. (would also act as a theft deterrent)

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NO

Alan Bechard said:

Fabricate or adapt some other more common and readily available solenoid to do the job (think I would rather just cable it if doing that much work)

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NO

Alan Bechard said:

Any thoughts on why they are burning up or could it be something I am doing wrong other than buying Chinese parts?

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What TPG said above

So the black thing on the end where the black and white wire go in is the switch that makes it a 2 wire from the 3 wire. The TL130's I believe have the three wire solenoid and the relay internal to the TAK.

I think Pump guy probably has the reason, I have probably not got it adjusted correctly and it is working too hard holding it pulled in.

Today it decided to all work fine, so that was my warning shot from the machine I guess. Need to get the plate off and get under it and look at the adjustment this weekend, in between barn building and some other things.

It has been in there a couple months, not sure on # of hours, but several days of running.

Vetech63
I like to buy dealer parts, but the multiple in cost for a machine not run all the time is a choker for me. My other hesitancy is I am about half afraid that I order the dealer item, they get it in (prepaid) and it is a Chinese holdwell they hand me. I would be beside myself.
I went and bought the Dealers Hyd filter for it, (no wix cross (the big one in the back) so bite the bullet and go down and buy the $75 filter, and get handed a yellow filter with stretch tape on it and the TAK part # written in Sharpie on it. No other markings. I am 90% certain it was a Case or Aftermarket filter.

Thank you everyone for all the input. Now to go through and check it out and see what I can come up with.

Alan

if you need another, buy the solenoid off ebay. can buy under $100.

My TL150 hydraulic filters have looked like that since my machines were brand new.

thepumpguysc said:

Like I said, the plunger HAS TO be bottomed in the case inorder for it to last..
It may "look like" its bottomed to the untrained eye but it' snot ..lol
The way I do it is.. disconnect it from the S/O shaft & pull the SOL. shaft in till it bottoms in the case..
Now pull the s/o shaft to the OFF position & LOOK at the 2 to see if the holes line up..
IF NO, that's the problem w/ burning them up.. & adj. by loosening the 2 jam nuts,{should be 10mm}
& turning the shaft to meet the s/o lever holes.
Check & re-check your adjustment..
Good luck &I hope this helps..

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I'm trying to do this now and have a few questions. If I can ask.

That’s what we’re here for..

The parts book list two different solenoids. They are serial number specific.

Hmmm.?? Once u figure out what solenoid u need, I think I would get a relay too..

Does anyone have a picture of the tl140 stop solenoid location? Or a description of removal and installation. I can't find one anywhere online. I don't know if I go in from the top. back or under the machine.

Last shut off solenoid I did on a TL140, I raised the cab, solenoid is on the left side of the engine if your under the cab and looking toward the rear of the machine. Has 2 bolts holding the solenoid to the bracket, 10MM socket to remove those. There’s a linkage rod going from the shutoff solenoid to the shut off lever on the pump. Has tiny E-clips on the rod, I’d order several as it takes several tries and a significant amount of cursing to get them back in place successfully. One of those things you need 2 hands for but one will hardly fit. Might also put machine on blocks and drop the bottom pan under the engine for more access. You can also pick up the E-clips that get dropped this way too.

I think the easiest access is from underneath. Remove the belly pan panel. It will be right there on bottom side of motor.

Barnlofter said:

Does anyone have a picture of the tl140 stop solenoid location? Or a description of removal and installation. I can't find one anywhere online. I don't know if I go in from the top. back or under the machine.

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Thank you. I have her on blocks and both pans removed. I couldn't see anything that looks like I bought (stop solenoid). I'll raise the cab tomorrow and see if I see it then. Someone put a shut off cable on her before me. I hope to either help the cable. It's hard to shut off have to pull it to hard, or install the correct shut off solenoid. I have wondered how do u shut her down if she ever doesn't want to. I haven't found a kill switch anywhere.

skata said:

I think the easiest access is from underneath. Remove the belly pan panel. It will be right there on bottom side of motor.

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I'll look again tomorrow. Maybe I just missed it. The internet has almost no pictures except for new solenoids. Also no videos of anyone replacing it.