This will be an interesting thread moving forward......

The air scribe will vibrate the broken screw enough you can put the point in the screw and turn the stub with the scribe. One job I did recently was remove several broken screws that hold the drive motors to the frame on 200D LC. I probably got out 10 with the air scribe and only had to drill 1. It took way longer to drill 1 than remove 10 with the air scribe.

Do not try an electric engraver and say it won't work. The air scribe is orders of magnitude better.

Can (will?) an Deere ag dealer fix the PRV?

Oh, I just remembered. I talked with the asphalt super yesterday about this eccentric issue (still waiting on parts) and asked how all this came about. He claimed that the original issue was that the sight glass started leaking and that it was run low on oil. He showed me a video on his phone of the oil in the sight glass boiling and I could hear it boiling through his video. He contacted Cat about the type of oil to put in it and the procedure for installed the correct amount of oil. He showed me what Cat had sent him and I have pictures of that now. I then asked where the oil they got came from...........they were out of town way out in the sticks where the only place to get oil was a NAPA store. The NAPA people gave them some oil that was supposedly an equivalent to the Cat specs............but he said the put in almost all of 2 5-gallon buckets. So, something isn't jiving here. If you position the machine drum as specified in the procedure, how in the hell do you fit almost 10 gallons of oil to be in the sight glass? It's an impossibility .......and if it was run out of oil originally, why is there not more severe damage to the bearings and hard parts? We will never know what actually happened which is a shame.

What I bet happened is they didn't follow the procedure correctly and had the drum in the wrong position. I also bet the oil they put in was not the correct oil nor a close equivalent.

terex herder said:

Can (will?) an Deere ag dealer fix the PRV?

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I hear ag is just as bad or worse. I'm so frustrated with the JD dealer right now ...........and I know why everyone else in this state is too.

Vetech63 said:

The switches didn't come with the rocker part LOL. Does anyone else think this is just stupid? Another day down because of this ignorance.  One thing is for sure fellas.................I'm definitely NOT bored!

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I think the switches are sold like that because some have different colored lenses or maybe even lettering on them. Are those little bumps on the rocker so blind operators can read what the switch is for?

Too bad about the ag dealer. I'm in the middle between 2 different ag dealership chains, and get excellent service from either. If I call Murphy, I will wait weeks.

Quick Dick McDick's take on the tractor dealership's service. This guy is usually spot on with most subjects and I really enjoy his videos.

Around here, maybe all of California, the way I heard it was that the mothership decided that the construction dealer would buy out the ag dealer, and now there is only one place to go.

I thought that was nationwide but maybe they have not gotten around to it yet.

Pricey little toys, $270 for the kit here --> http://www.sand-blasters.net/chicagopneumaticmodelcp9361airscribe.aspx

How bad do I need one?

Joe H

It’s only expensive until it gets you out of a jam. Then it’s a justifiable expense.

kshansen said:

I think the switches are sold like that because some have different colored lenses or maybe even lettering on them.

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That's it in a nutshell. To get a complete switch for certain particular applications you need to order two Part Numbers. T'aint hard, both numbers are right next to one another in the Parts Manual.

You couldn't reuse the old cover?

I thought that as well John C but surmised the switches may have been missing completely.

It’s only expensive until it gets you out of a jam.

True enough, but I'm 73 and the jams are not as frequent. And I'm a cheap old b*****d too.

Joe H

joe--h said:

It’s only expensive until it gets you out of a jam.

True enough, but I'm 73 and the jams are not as frequent. And I'm a cheap old b*****d too.

Joe H

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In that case my go to tool would be a sharp prick punch and small ballpeen hammer. Often have been able to get broken bolts out with those. That of course assumes they are not rusted or held with loc-tite. But then I kind of doubt that Air-scribe would work either!

Then there's the drill with left handed drills.

Somebody else asked this question. Why do they make right handed drills? If they were all left handed would they not work just as good, and get bolts out sometimes too?

Drills are right handed for the same reason screw threads are right handed. There are far more right handed people than left handed.

Even if left handed drills were the standard, there would be right hand drills. Left hand drills do not exist to remove screws, they just work for that purpose. There were many machine tools with multiple spindle centerlines close together and geared in daisy chain fashion. This means every other spindle turns the opposite direction, thusly requiring left hand drills.

Another learned something new today.

Joe H

Birken Vogt said:

Why do they make right handed drills?

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Why do stock cars always turn to the left here but not else where--I think it's because of too much
BBQ and beer. who knows.