Hi everyone. I’m new on the forum and searched for a thread and didn’t find anything related to my issue. If you know of a thread, please direct me to it. I have a 1969 Case 580 Ck gasser that I have used around my property all summer long for the past 5 years. Never had a problem with it besides some hydraulic leaks. When I tried to start it this summer it had no spark. Had spark from the coil so I replaced the points and condenser. Tried to start it and no spark. Didn’t even have spark from the coil. I have power from the hot wire going to the coil so I replaced the coil. I got a coil from an auto parts store and still no spark. I’m at a loss as to what could be the issue. Anyone know anything about these old case gassers that could help?
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580 CK No spark
- Thread starter LTM
- Start date
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Welcome to HEF, LTM !
Ignition coils are polarity specific.
The power from the ignition switch has to go to the positive (+) side of the coil.
Negative (-) side to the distributer.
Recheck the gap on the distributer points.
You can rotate the engine by pushing on a fan blade until the points are open.
Then use a screwdriver to short across distributer points and see if the coil produces a spark.
Ignition coils are polarity specific.
The power from the ignition switch has to go to the positive (+) side of the coil.
Negative (-) side to the distributer.
Recheck the gap on the distributer points.
You can rotate the engine by pushing on a fan blade until the points are open.
Then use a screwdriver to short across distributer points and see if the coil produces a spark.
I understand how the ignition system works I’ve wrenched on old muscle cars and trucks all my life. The coil is hooked up correctly but it won’t spark. I took the coil wire off at the distributor cap and held it close to the block. Could not get a spark to jump. This trick always worked on the old cars if everything was working correctly. Is there any fuse’s between the ignition switch and the coil that could be blown? Maybe I got a bad coil? I think I’ll run some jumper cables from the battery directly to the coil to see if I can get it to throw a spark
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Got a voltmeter ?
Check the positive post of the coil for any life.
Unhook one of the wires from the coil and use an ohmmeter for resistance.
Check the positive post of the coil for any life.
Unhook one of the wires from the coil and use an ohmmeter for resistance.
I disconnected the wires to the coil. I connected my meter to the wires and I have 8 volts between the hot and ground wires going to the coil. Battery is a little drawn down from not running but still turn over pretty strong. I checked the resistance on both sides of the coil and have 6 ohms each side. Still cannot get the coil itself to throw a spark. I should be able to get a spark from the coil wire to any ground correct?
Ok thought maybe just not enough juice from the battery to get the coil to spark. With jumper cables from my truck to the hoe battery I have 12v between the +& - of the coil. Everything seems good but still no spark from the coil. Pulled the coil wire out of the distributor cap and grounded it with the engine cranking. no spark jumped from the end of the wire. Thought maybe the wire was bad even though relatively new so I plugged a spark plug wire into the coil and put a new plug in the end and grounded it. No spark. I would think the points need set but I’m trying to see if I even have spark going to the distributor. Am I going about this wrong?
mitch504
Senior Member
I would charge the battery if it is showing 8 volts at rest, just so.
Put it all back together and put a test light on the negative post on the coil, while spinning the engine. If the test light doesn't flash, your points aren't working and it won't fire. If the light burns steady, your points aren't closing, or aren't grounding for some other reason. If the light never lights up, your points aren't opening, or are grounded out.
Check the voltage on the positive terminal on the coil while spinning the engine. There is a resistor that lowers the running voltage, but it should show near battery voltage while cranking.
Put it all back together and put a test light on the negative post on the coil, while spinning the engine. If the test light doesn't flash, your points aren't working and it won't fire. If the light burns steady, your points aren't closing, or aren't grounding for some other reason. If the light never lights up, your points aren't opening, or are grounded out.
Check the voltage on the positive terminal on the coil while spinning the engine. There is a resistor that lowers the running voltage, but it should show near battery voltage while cranking.
mitch504
Senior Member
Just read your last post, glad you charged the battery. You shouldn't have any voltage between the hot and ground to the coil except when the points are closed.
Put the testlight on the coil negative, it definitely sounds like your points. the coil won't fire if the points aren't right.
Put the testlight on the coil negative, it definitely sounds like your points. the coil won't fire if the points aren't right.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Mitch; I didn't see your posts. I was typing and rereading LTM's last post.
You aren't doing anything wrong.
Just for clarification for me -- with 12 volts positive connected to the + terminal of the coil, you momentarily grounded the (-) side of the coil and no spark ??
Did you disconnect the wire from the distributor ?
I would do that to eliminate the points from the circuit.
After disconnecting the wire from the distributer, tap it to a ground and see if there is any sparks.
If there are no sparks you have a defective coil.
You aren't doing anything wrong.
Just for clarification for me -- with 12 volts positive connected to the + terminal of the coil, you momentarily grounded the (-) side of the coil and no spark ??
Did you disconnect the wire from the distributor ?
I would do that to eliminate the points from the circuit.
After disconnecting the wire from the distributer, tap it to a ground and see if there is any sparks.
If there are no sparks you have a defective coil.
mitch504
Senior Member
You get her running with the new coil?
mekanik
Senior Member
Does the coil have a good ground? The paint on the coil's housing can insulate it.
A coil for an electronic ignition may not work with a breaker point system.
A coil for an electronic ignition may not work with a breaker point system.
Swapped out the coil and she fired right up. Hydraulic steering wouldn’t work. Changed the fluid and ran her for 4 hours today. I have a 1/4 mile driveway though the woods and was able to fix all the ruts and pot holes. She ran great. Thanks everyone.
mekanik
Senior Member
Looks good to me!