Just another point to consider, if the tractor has a set of remote hyd couplers, you probably should run tractor trans/hyd fluid no matter what the manual says because any implements you hook onto or borrow will likely have the trans/hyd fluid already in the cylinders and hoses
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Small Tractors? Massey Ferguson 230?
- Thread starter aighead
- Start date
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I kind of doubt it has aux. hyd's.
aighead
Senior Member
Thanks 56, I do not think there are any hydraulics that aren't the 3 pt hitch. No loader hookup or anything like that that I've noticed. Point well taken though.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The tractor should be running TDH fluid anyway but I've heard of some hyd. fluids not being compatible when renting larger attachments for excavators and even skid steers. Some renters will flush the rental unit out before hooking it up or ask the rental outfit to do it before they pick it up.
aighead
Senior Member
So, this seems like some dumb questions but you know, I'm full of them. I bought this extendo top link for my tractor, and it has a threaded side that makes the link longer, what I was looking for. It also has a metal stick that appears to go through a hole in the middle of the link.
2 questions-
First, does it matter which side the screwy part is on? Should it be on the tractor side or the implement side?
Second, how's that metal stick go into the hole? Do I just hammer it past the stop on the stick? I think the stick is to make for easier extending once the link gets older and dirtier? It was really easy to extend now but presumably because it's brand new...
I guess a third question too-the tab thing on there is just to keep the link from unextending, right?
Thanks for the help!
2 questions-
First, does it matter which side the screwy part is on? Should it be on the tractor side or the implement side?
Second, how's that metal stick go into the hole? Do I just hammer it past the stop on the stick? I think the stick is to make for easier extending once the link gets older and dirtier? It was really easy to extend now but presumably because it's brand new...
I guess a third question too-the tab thing on there is just to keep the link from unextending, right?
Thanks for the help!
Any of the adjustable top links i have seen are threaded on both ends. One is lh and the other is rh so when you turn the centre tube part, both ends extend an equal amount or retract an equal amount therefore allowing adjustment without removing any pins. Maybe one end is bottomed out in the centre tube. Post a picture
aighead
Senior Member
That's kind of what I expected too, but the tab thing is only on one side (not that that matters) and one side was easy to turn or unthread. The whole link is quite long so maybe they only threaded one side on this one? The link I put in the above post is the best I've got for the time being but I'll get a real picture soon.
I'd be shocked if both sides weren't threaded. It only needs needs one tab because both pins will be fixed, so it won't turn as long as the center part is latched to either end. It would be useless without both ends threaded, you'd have to remove it every time you adjust the length. Hydraulic ones are real popular because turning those with any weight is hard enough. I've never seen one without the rod installed, they must do that for shipping, just pound it in.
aighead
Senior Member
Duh, yep, only one tab thing is needed.
Does it matter the orientation? I have the screwy side towards the implement. Maybe it makes more sense for the tab to be on the downhill side (screwy side towards tractor)...
Does it matter the orientation? I have the screwy side towards the implement. Maybe it makes more sense for the tab to be on the downhill side (screwy side towards tractor)...
aighead
Senior Member
No, I've had too many beverages at this point. I'll probably get out there tomorrow.
It will unscrew, and the tab can be on either side. I'd add some moly grease if you have it handy, those threads like to fret and fail at a bad time, probably never be an issue for you, but you seem to have the average level of OCD for this site
aighead
Senior Member
I do have moly grease!
This was the easiest upgrade I've ever done to the tractor, we'll see how it goes!
This was the easiest upgrade I've ever done to the tractor, we'll see how it goes!
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Most aftermarket top link arms are threaded left and right like a big turnbuckle. The round handle is supposed to be pounded in the holes in the middle section but anytime I've pounded it in, it ended up falling out and getting lost. If you pound it in, deform the ends or weld a washer or something on the ends so it can't vibrate out. I keep a wrench on the tractor and stick one of the prongs in the holes to adjust the top link. I'm wondering if you might have a stabilizer for the lower arms instead of an adjustable top link arm. Pics. would help.
aighead
Senior Member
Oh yeah, I took a picture yesterday then forgot about it. It's definitely a top link. Thanks guys!
colson04
Senior Member
The link on the tractor side is screwed all the way in. You need to remove it, unscrew it to match the length of the other end, and then reinstall. Then, only adjust the length by spinning the center piece while making sure both silver ends don't spin, either by pinning the free end to you attachment, or holding it with your hand.
aighead
Senior Member
Thanks colson. I actually looked for a video or picture showing other folk's top link and didn't find any, prior to posting. Somehow I missed just the right words to pull up that video.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Yes, you need to have both ends extended the same. There are 2 lengths of Cat. 1 top links as well. I think 1 is about 16" closed and the other about 20" closed. The 16" is the most common and it looks like yours could be the longer 20" one.
aighead
Senior Member
It's actually longer than that even. It claims 29"-39", extended so I could more effectively use Pat's quick change adapters, which add about 6" or so to the length of the bottom links.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
That's why it looks extra long. Make sure it allows your mower to stay level while going up and down hills. If it's too long can limit its usefulness. Even on a blade it might not set the blade to the optimal pitch to roll and move material.