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Case 310C what do I need to know?
- Thread starter A_Man
- Start date
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Loctite 660 can repair some keyways but doubt it would work on Cat sprocket splines. You could contact Loctite and see what they recommend. There's also some very good epoxies like Belzona or maybe Devcon that might work to repair worn splines.
Thanks Dave, do you know where I'd find a contact for loctite for that, or an example thread where someone repairs this? I figure just pump it in there and pray, but there may be more to it
.Welder Dave
Senior Member
Here's a couple products for stripped splines. There are other's such as Loctite 660. Just need to surf the net or contact the epoxy makers directly..
Spline Shaft Repair (appliedmaintenance.com)
Belzona Rebuilds Spline Shaft
Spline Shaft Repair (appliedmaintenance.com)
Belzona Rebuilds Spline Shaft
Ended up getting enough bite on the nut flipping it around and putting it back on, lifted machine on outriggers, smacked the sprocket with deadblow, get another half turn, repeat. I found a local place for the devcon, but prob won't muck with that till spring.
Next fun thing, I noticed the hydraulic fluid was low and looked like chocolate milk (yum), so I drained it and was going to replace it but I saw this...
Motor oil? SAE 10-w? I see tractor supply has some SAE 20 but research tells me that may be cheap garbage. Then I see ISO-32 may be the modern match for 10-w hydraulic, but might not have proper additives?
What is the proper modern hydraulic fluid to use?
Motor oil? SAE 10-w? I see tractor supply has some SAE 20 but research tells me that may be cheap garbage. Then I see ISO-32 may be the modern match for 10-w hydraulic, but might not have proper additives?
What is the proper modern hydraulic fluid to use?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Most likely ISO 32 hyd. oil will be fine. It is equivellant to 10 weight engine oil. You can usually use tractor fluid in a straight hyd. system as well. It's typically 10W-30 weight. Tractor fluid is sometimes cheaper than hyd. fluid.
Yeah original plan was just to get hy-tran and pour it in, and after more research I'm coming back to the idea as well.
but
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114
"Its viscosity is comparable to a SAE 20 crankcase fluid or an ISO 68"
Maybe it would not matter.
but
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114
"Its viscosity is comparable to a SAE 20 crankcase fluid or an ISO 68"
Maybe it would not matter.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Don't think you need the more expensive Hy-tran. I use tractor fluid from Walmart in my Cat track loaders hyd. system because it is less expensive. I use a name brand TO-4 in the transmission though. Basic hydraulics don't normally require specialty name brand oils. If the oil also runs a hydrostatic drive like in a skid steer, then the name brand oils are a good idea.
That utf is the cheapest other than "agricultural fluids" in the yellow can, which my research led me to see this, and started my wild goose chase lol
"It may also serve as a compression fluid in non-critical applications such as wood splitters and many other stationary applications. Not recommended for use in mobile, farm or construction equipment."
"It may also serve as a compression fluid in non-critical applications such as wood splitters and many other stationary applications. Not recommended for use in mobile, farm or construction equipment."
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The fluid I use from Walmart meets Cat TO-2 and several other manufacturer specs. This is an obsolete Cat spec. but still means the fluid has met specific standards. Don't use fluid says suitable or may be used in or something along those lines. Use a fluid that says it meets specific OEM specs. Also don't use something meeting a 303 spec. I think it's an old JD spec. from the 50's. That said, your Case 310 isn't fussy about hyd. fluid. It's a basic lower pressure, by today's standards, gear pump hyd. system. Keep the level up and change the filter occasionally and you shouldn't have any problems unless the pump is completely worn out.
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Local tractor place had this listed as hy-tran, grabbed a bucket. I may be wrong but I think this stuff may not meet any standards
https://starfire.com/products/hydraulic-oil/mef-3/
Could work to use for a while and then drain out I suppose, unless it is total grabage
https://starfire.com/products/hydraulic-oil/mef-3/
Could work to use for a while and then drain out I suppose, unless it is total grabage
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Do you want to change the fluid often? That oil is basically saying it's not very good. Your making it seem like it's hard to find an oil to use in your hyd. system which it isn't. You go from expensive Hy-Tran to the cheapest stuff on the market. Look for something that lists what OEM specs. it meets like Cat TO-2. If it meets the Cat spec. it will most likely meet other specs. and have them listed as well. ISO 32 hyd. fluid will work if you find it for a decent price.
D5Dan
Well-Known Member
To WelderDave’s point-
Here’s the Tractor Supply stuff I’m using in my machine…NOT saying this IS “THE” stuff you have to use…just showing the label of “meets-requirements”
too many to count.
Here’s the Tractor Supply stuff I’m using in my machine…NOT saying this IS “THE” stuff you have to use…just showing the label of “meets-requirements”
too many to count.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I've generally heard this is good oil but still I'd rather see it say that it meets all these specs. rather than recommended for. Could probably get more info from Tractor Supply such as who makes it for them and if it actually does meet the specs. listed. Still much better than an economy oil that recommends you change it often. That's like admitting it's not very good.
Yup the only reason I got the cheap junk was the local tractor place had it under a sign that said "Hy-Tran" so I figured it was not just just going to be garbage, after looking at that datasheet I realized it was a load of crap lol. Especially when I see the bit about equipment requiring frequent fluid changes.
After seeing that I actually picked up that bucket of the TSC stuff the same day, it is 20 bucks more a bucket though; but I like that it says 10w-30 spec, which is as far as I can tell is close to what the manual calls for as I can find
Current plan is to put the cheap stuff in there and run it for a bit, sort of as a flush since the old fluid looked like chocolate milk.
Then I'll probably put in some hytran even if it is more expensive.
After seeing that I actually picked up that bucket of the TSC stuff the same day, it is 20 bucks more a bucket though; but I like that it says 10w-30 spec, which is as far as I can tell is close to what the manual calls for as I can find
Current plan is to put the cheap stuff in there and run it for a bit, sort of as a flush since the old fluid looked like chocolate milk.
Then I'll probably put in some hytran even if it is more expensive.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I guess it could be OK to flush the system. At least now you know you kind of get what you pay for and what to look for.
Mcrafty1
Senior Member
Most any 10w brand name motor oil would be superior to what was on the market and likely in the machine when it left the factory. any of those oils will be better than the 'chocolate milk' you say is in the machine now.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Adding "good" oil to the system is only going to dilute the crap that is in it and a complete waste of decent oil. IMHO.
A complete system flush is the only way to get rid of the chocolate looking crap that is in it now.
A complete system flush is the only way to get rid of the chocolate looking crap that is in it now.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
If you've bought the cheap oil it would be a good oil to flush the system with. Once flushed then put in better oil.