materthegreater
Senior Member
I must be kind of a hack as well because I tried all of those! The brass is just so soft it's deforming and won't move.
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2004 International 7300
- Thread starter materthegreater
- Start date
I must be kind of a hack as well because I tried all of those! The brass is just so soft it's deforming and won't move.
cfherrman
Senior Member
Ratchet strap? Lol probably can't get enough torque.
Maybe a chain tong
Maybe a chain tong
Keith Merrell
Well-Known Member
Too bad its brass or I'd say weld something to it
cfherrman
Senior Member
Did you try to shrink it?
materthegreater
Senior Member
I guess I need to get a longer handle chain wrench. And maybe try shrinking it. I assume you are referring to dry ice or similar?
cfherrman
Senior Member
Take a torch and heat it up, take a smoke break and let it cool down and the metal will shrink, then try it.
Willie B
Senior Member
I'm trying to understand the brass. I see female thread inside the steel barrel. I presume there must be male thread outside the barrel & Female in the brass, but I don't see them.
Do you know the brass comes off? Might repack be accomplished without removing the brass part?
Do you know the brass comes off? Might repack be accomplished without removing the brass part?
materthegreater
Senior Member
Cfherrman, I did try heating the steel barrel and letting it cool. I'll try it with just the brass.
Willie, I was able to get the brass nuts off the top two stages. The threads you are seeing are from the next stage that is pushed back into the lowest barrel. Here are some pictures to help clarify
Willie, I was able to get the brass nuts off the top two stages. The threads you are seeing are from the next stage that is pushed back into the lowest barrel. Here are some pictures to help clarify
mekanik
Senior Member
It looks like there is a lock pin drilled and staked in place.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Yes, there was a brass pin there. I drilled it completely out so it shouldn't be restricting removal of the nut.
mekanik
Senior Member
Can you borrow or rent a big chain wrench?
materthegreater
Senior Member
I think that will have to be my next option
materthegreater
Senior Member
Finished a job a little early today so spent some time this afternoon building a wrench.
After about an hour of pounding on the wrench handle with a 3 lb hammer and heating the barrel and reinforcing the wrench several times, I was able to get a little over one full turn on the nut. It is VERY tight. Regular work for a day or two will give my arm a little time to recover for the next round.
After about an hour of pounding on the wrench handle with a 3 lb hammer and heating the barrel and reinforcing the wrench several times, I was able to get a little over one full turn on the nut. It is VERY tight. Regular work for a day or two will give my arm a little time to recover for the next round.
cfherrman
Senior Member
Wow, good you got it moving
materthegreater
Senior Member
Well I gave up on that Mailhot cylinder. I did finally get the nut removed, but must have deformed the cylinder wall in the process because the barrel gets hung up when I try to pull it apart.
I installed a new cylinder from Northern tool, which I'm hoping will have enough force to dump a full load. We will see.
More recently I've been working on the pintle hitch and trailer wiring. I need to be able to tow an electric brake trailer, so now I'm installing the brake controller. I'm trying to find the best location to install the double check valve that will supply signal air to the controller. The diagram that came with the controller is very basic and I'm not very familiar with air systems. Does anyone have some pointers on where to plumb this in?
I installed a new cylinder from Northern tool, which I'm hoping will have enough force to dump a full load. We will see.
More recently I've been working on the pintle hitch and trailer wiring. I need to be able to tow an electric brake trailer, so now I'm installing the brake controller. I'm trying to find the best location to install the double check valve that will supply signal air to the controller. The diagram that came with the controller is very basic and I'm not very familiar with air systems. Does anyone have some pointers on where to plumb this in?
materthegreater
Senior Member
Also, I'll need to plumb the pintle plunger at some point. What's the proper way to do that? I've read about some guys tee-ing into the lines that release the parking brakes, but I wasn't sure if that's the correct way to do it.
Willie B
Senior Member
Your trailer is a bit heavier than mine. Mine gets signal for the electric brake control from the brake light switch, not from truck air.
mekanik
Senior Member
I really don't think you need to cut both lines and install a double check valve. The two delivery ports are one for rear axle application and one for steer axle and trailer application. I have installed a few air over electric controllers using the rear axle application line to activate them. If you had a trailer air service line then that is the one you would connect it to.
Normally the trailer emergency air goes to operate the pintle plunger. You should be safe tapping into the air that releases the rear park brake chambers.
Be VERY careful working under that elevated box!
Normally the trailer emergency air goes to operate the pintle plunger. You should be safe tapping into the air that releases the rear park brake chambers.
Be VERY careful working under that elevated box!
materthegreater
Senior Member
Probably not much heavier. But I don't like the basic brake controllers that are just on or off. This one senses the air pressure and applies the trailer brakes proportionally.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Ok, that makes sense. Maybe I'll put a ball valve in as well so I can shut it off if need be.
Thanks, I use a prop when working under the raised box