• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Readying for the KW

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Well I missed a "Buy" from one of the Wife's Co Worker friends. Seems her Family is from St James MO, they had a Sale this Weekend, loads of Farm Schtuff, most of it(99%) incapable of running or being used. One of the Items, a 1974 4070A Sleeper, Cummins on Hendrickson RUBBER Ride. Do NOT know and will NOT ask what it sold for, most likely either a 220 or 250 in it.
 

oarwhat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
838
Location
buffalo,n.y.
Well I missed a "Buy" from one of the Wife's Co Worker friends. Seems her Family is from St James MO, they had a Sale this Weekend, loads of Farm Schtuff, most of it(99%) incapable of running or being used. One of the Items, a 1974 4070A Sleeper, Cummins on Hendrickson RUBBER Ride. Do NOT know and will NOT ask what it sold for, most likely either a 220 or 250 in it.
Seems like your wife held back the sale info until it was too late. :) She knew you couldn't resist buying more trucks.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Maybe
About the only machine I would have bid on was a Stude ton and half.

Heard it sold for $2200, NOT running nor complete.
The 4070a was a Super 250 on a 8LL, guy that bought it has been calling any and everyone to get it running, paid $6500 for that!!

As far as My progress
Still have two paint repairs but need mind right before go there, otherwise been reinstalling stuff, next up will be markers(wire mods), eye brow and horn trumpets. Trying to get it weather tight so once get paint work done can go Outside.0EB766CC-B87A-45AD-ABDF-091C89ADE898.jpegFDB8FC64-0E5D-4811-9C92-C69EC98FEEDF.jpeg
 

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
16,911
Location
WWW.
Unless the paint blurbs are real noticeable-When I riveted the top hood sections to the side pieces
on my Mack It ended up with a slight pucker between two rivets. After the third time around on that
hood-I said screw it and left it. No one noticed unless I pointed it out. and I was ok with it.

Again--looks great!
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Replacement markers wired up, roof penetration plugs sealed, anti seize on screws. Installed fender turn signals, repaired OE plug in connections.
All works as supposed to
Need to get additional three feet of two wire sheathed for air cleaner markers. Even the rivnut hole I had to glass in came in square.
C68B4529-C59D-4121-99EF-263EF1EE4872.jpeg
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Update on paint repairs, after MUCH discussion with the body shop guys and the PPG paint rep, got pricing for additional [MAYBE] supplies and decided going to HAVE to repaint the entire Right Fender to make it look correct. PPG makes a Blending Clear, smallest volume available 1 gallon, OVER $500 plus cost of hardener and rate control additives where would still have to apply to over 1/2 the fender surface with use of existing Gray I would have mixed in, so NO Brainer, Repaint ENTIRE fender surface with supplies HERE. Already own the Gray partial gallon so least expense EXCEPT for Time.

Rear Fenders may require purchase of MORE paint or may end up doing a different scheme with the Blue and the Gray as did on hood to cut expenses there too. Rear Sleeper corner, will repaint that corner Panel and re-clear again no brainer, supplies are here and paid for.

Cut and Buff was going painstakingly SLOW, My Own fault as MY technique was most of that problem. Not ever dealt with Clear Coat buff before, buffed old enamels before and not near as painstaking. BIGGEST Issue with my technique, buffing TOO MUCH AREA, at a time. Was explained need Towels, LOADS of DRY, CLEAN towels, buff a 2'x2' patch, Wipe It Down, buff until happy on that spot, move to next, so far going better in that respect. Toweling off removes Paint cut away you CANNOT see, that becomes a Epoxy Grinding Compound if not removed as do small areas, will move with buffing head as well so WASH OUT the Heads OFTEN changing out to Dried Clean heads so bought a few more. Is a reason that Sh!t is everywhere in body shops, is being cleaned or dried or readying for cleaning and spares left as needed everywhere. So MORE time to spend correcting MY poor skills with modern paints. So will be Stripping the small stuff BACK OFF that fender today.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Wife has actually started looking into rolling Shat houses, looking at prices, models, variations for given years and out of production models.
No intent as to buying new, be looking at 5-10 years age where may end up its own project. So long as weather tight, no structural accident damage or absolute misuse or intentionally ignored issues.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,559
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Coming on to two years of progress on this with it on and off as had to, mostly due to my own failings for excess time at it. Been quite a challenge at times almost as if the beast wanted to remain retired!!

Once get the base truck done and can go outside, awaiting two thick wall grommets for mirror heat cables to have cab weather tight, will rework the fenders to install.
Hoping to have it fully completed some time November or early December. Then to get state inspected and licensed first of ‘23.
 
Top