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Volvo L110F, fam low speed

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,519
Location
Will county Illinois
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Mechanic
That would be fine. You want to monitor the accumulator block pressure. During active brake charging, cut-in pressure should be 1780 to 1800 psi. Cut-out should be 2180-2200 psi. You've already established passive at 2400, that keeps you far enough apart that you won't have overlap. Depending on 3 or 5 accumulators on the manifold, you should be able to satisfy brake charging in 15-20 seconds after start up. So once the V-ECU sees 2200, the oil from pump 3 is now directed to the cooling fan. With the accumulators charged, the pressure should maintain, if it is draining off and rapidly building, odds are the inlet check valve has failed. This will cause excessive heat in the oil and rob the cooling system of fan speed. Please report what you find.
 

remus

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Messages
16
Location
Bacau , Romania
Hello,
Measurement conditions:
-pressure gauge with 3500 PSI on the scale end
-measurement point: besides to the SE5218 sensor
-accumulators on the manifold: 3
I started the engine at idle.
"Low brake pressure" appeared for 5 seconds, after which it disappears.
The initial pressure, visualized on the manometer, was 200 PSI.
After 5 seconds the pressure suddenly increased to 2200 PSI.
Slowly this drops to 1700 PSI, then suddenly increases to 2400 PSI and the cycle repeats.
I forgot to mention last time:
1. I tested the fan (in the service menu) and it follows the engine speed with a slight tendency to stop when I press the brake pedal.
2. when I turn on the ignition, the message appears:
"parking brake failure"
"Check at next stop".
A good day.
 

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,519
Location
Will county Illinois
Occupation
Mechanic
Follow the hose from the central valve block going to the accumulator block. The fitting at the accumulator block is a one way check valve. Very common for them to fail. Please see attached parts list for check valve and gasket, be mindful of serial number break, however I believe the earlier number subs to the newer. Do not try to get repair parts for the valve, replace the whole thing. Item A comes as an assembly. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • brake charging hydraulics L110F.pdf
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remus

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Messages
16
Location
Bacau , Romania
Hello,
thank you very much for the information and guidance provided to solve this problem.
Unfortunately, I noticed that apart from the fact that the fan did not spin and did not help cooling the engine, I think it has a fault in the cooling circuit: water pump, thermostat, etc. Anyway, thanks again for solving the hydraulic problem.
I wish you a good day.
 

remus

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Messages
16
Location
Bacau , Romania
This is what I did the first time, the hose from the radiator to the expansion tank and the one from the cylinder head to the expansion tank.
I found the entrance to the expansion tank on the cylinder head hose blocked and the one on the radiator, the air was difficult to circulate through it.
I changed both, I cleaned the expansion tank but the result is the same. I have to check the radiator, the water pump and the thermostat are good.
As a finding, water does not circulate through the radiator. It is warm at the top and cold at the bottom, although there are times when it heats up from top to bottom.
I checked the other hoses, the route through the oil cooler
transmission, the pump drive belt does not slip.
 

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,519
Location
Will county Illinois
Occupation
Mechanic
I would drain the coolant and remove the thermostat. Physically inspect it. They were know to have the sensing element break off and drop into the water pump housing. If it's intact, boil test it to see at what temperature it opens. Should start to open at 170°f and fully open by 190° if I remember correctly.
 
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