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Crane Id?

Andover

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Joined
Aug 16, 2022
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9
Location
ariss



I am trying to ID the model of Grove Crane in this picture. I believe it is a 1971 model year.
upload_2022-8-17_0-4-35.png
 

crane operator

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Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,322
Location
sw missouri
And just a FYI, its missing the spin latches and dogs for pulling the dead section back in- something could be messed up with the dead section. I'd look at that part pretty close if you need that stick.

Mine had a detroit downstairs and a perkins upstairs, but most had a ford gas upstairs and some were big international gassers downstairs. It could be anything by now. You're right on for year of manufacture, most anything after 1973 is trapezoid boom. Its likely a CCC carrier.
 

Andover

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Joined
Aug 16, 2022
Messages
9
Location
ariss
So... I am wanting to get an operators manual... I am assuming that the respondents are correct, that this is a 225 and not a 180... how do I know for sure.. I only want to buy one manual. Thanks. P.S. I found a 1974 date of manufacture on the CCC carrier. I haven't been able to find anything on the upper part in the way of a model #.
 

crane operator

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Mar 27, 2009
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8,322
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sw missouri
The 180's are a three section boom. The 250's are a four section. That's one of the first identifiers. The upper cab/ engine box style gives you a year range. Anything older has the more rounded upper steel works, anything later is a trapezoid boom.

The model and serial number should have been on a metal chart in the upper cab, behind your right shoulder. If it doesn't have a chart and a model/serial number, it won't pass a inspection, and your going to have a hard time getting a replacement chart for it- without a serial number. Doesn't mean it isn't a bad crane, you just won't be able to use it in any kind of a commercial application that needs annual inspections.

First crane I owned was a tm250.
 
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crane operator

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Mar 27, 2009
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sw missouri
Looks like you got the dead section figured out. You'll need some cables if you want to use the a-frame.

You tape the hook latch open to send someone up to get the rigging?

We used to tie the rigging to a big shackle on top of the ball, and then drop the ball down to a bosun chair to go get the rigging. I always preferred that to taping the latch open.

Or if the pipe is short enough, you can single point pick it , with a rope tied to the choker eye, and pull it down to the low side when its set.
 

Andover

Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2022
Messages
9
Location
ariss
I had a rope tied to the choker eyes to release them.. I like two chokers so the pipe will "fly" level into place before I put the "slope" on it. No way I want to tape the hook latch with my limited experience.
I am struggling to get the specs. for the cables for the jib. Also I am unclear were the cables attach to the pulley head and if we are missing any brackets. I still haven't acquired the correct owners/operators manual. Thanks for all your earlier help.
 

skyking1

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Nov 3, 2020
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7,659
Location
washington
I did the rope on the eye trick doing pole sets. I like being able to coax it down to a safe place.
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,322
Location
sw missouri
You'll need the upper brackets for a frame. If they aren't in the crane, I don't know where you would find a factory set. They stand up, pivoting on the pins, to be up high when you hook the cables on it.

Any competent rigging shop should be able to make the cables with swaged or spelter sockets, you may have to find someone that has one, and get a length from them for the cables. Or a tape measure with the a frame held at the offset angle in the charts.

tm250 (2).jpg
 
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