• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

John Deere 210le won’t drive

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
My 210LE decided to quit driving. It quit driving the other day and after a few minutes started to drive again, a few days later it stoped driving and no amount of shifting or jiggling made a difference. When you shift forward to reverse the drive shaft moves but will not move the machine.
Trans fluid is to the top, the dump button on the loader control is functioning fine.
I have checked the wiring harness, relays and fuses.
I have never had a drive power problem in the past.
When it stopped driving it was sudden and sharp like hitting the loader dump button, not a gradual weakening like a clutch pack starting to slip.
Machine has 2,800 hours on it.
Any ideas on where else to start looking would be appreciated.9EED2BE5-43AA-4E4D-A3B1-0E489794758F.jpeg
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,145
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Power passing through the FNR?

Your serial indicates it is a powershift, correct? Has the K10 timer relay been checked? My money is on that being the issue. It is not a standard relay. It has circuitry inside it and when they fail, you lose drive.

Make sure you have power coming out of pin 1 (J28 Tan wire) on that relay when engaged in gear. If not, then check the inputs to the relay. Pin 3 will have voltage only when shifted into FWD or REV, Pin 4 needs a constant voltage source. Pin 6 has voltage when the park brake is released and pin 7 has a good ground.
 

Check Break

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
469
Location
USA
Your park brake may be applying. Did you check trans oil level when machine was running.
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
The machine is a power shift.
I'm not sure if I ever had a parts manual or service manual, I can only find the operators manual.
I googled the K10 timer but nothing comes up. Can you describe where it may be. I cleaned all the fuses and the six relays that are next to the fuses and there was nothing wrong there.
Like I noted the tranny oil level is fine and the filter is only a couple hundred hours old. The oil is clear and smells normal.
If you have a JD part number for the timer I can probably find info that way.
Thanks for the response.
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
The parking brake seems to be functioning fine. It does stop the drive shaft from moving back and forth when shifting from forward to reverse and the alarm works. When shifting the drive shaft moves but has no drive power. When it quit driving it was sudden and a positive disconnect like hitting the brake button. Didn’t feel like a clutch pack slipping or a torque converter failure.
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,145
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Can you describe where it may be.

It should be with the other relays. I don't have the specific location of which one in the stack. Post a picture of the relays. Maybe I can identify which one from that.

Or look for wire numbers and color. It will have the following connected to it: T21 Blue wire, G38 Black, J28 Tan and a J27 Tan.

210LE Timer Relay.png
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
I’ve included some pictures of the relays, fuses and another device I’m not sure what it is.
The 3 relays all have the same part number so I switched them around but had no effect.
 

Attachments

  • 21CAA05C-EE36-4EF7-A40B-E3993DAEE0CA.jpeg
    21CAA05C-EE36-4EF7-A40B-E3993DAEE0CA.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 24
  • 11422D01-F81E-4EEC-8D47-FF83ECD09578.jpeg
    11422D01-F81E-4EEC-8D47-FF83ECD09578.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 24
  • 6453829C-A249-4931-BDA8-5DFF0904FB56.jpeg
    6453829C-A249-4931-BDA8-5DFF0904FB56.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 25

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
This relay is really tough to find, I doesn’t show up in the parts book on any of the wiring diagrams that I have found so far.
The picture I’ve included shows this particular on is made by Chrysler.
The only one I’ve found a picture of says it’s made for Chrysler window relay. There is one on eBay that has the same male pattern but is smaller in length.
I tested the connector and there is power to the relay. The red wire is hot when the key is on. The blue wire is hot when shifting in forward and reverse, same with the yellow wire. Both showing 13.7 volts.
Black is ground. All wires are dead, except red, when the brake is applied.70CBA6D4-D3A8-4725-8361-4143F0E4C5DD.jpeg 7F2E43BF-DD9C-475C-8930-E1CCDB612510.jpeg F1AF81B3-CB2B-4896-9294-EF2A26A07534.png 64535AB4-72D8-4977-A78F-54C725EA6A56.jpeg 64535AB4-72D8-4977-A78F-54C725EA6A56.jpeg
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,145
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
If you have 13 volts coming out pin 1 with a Tan wire when you are in forward or reverse, then the relay is working. Next I would move to the FNR lever to see if you have voltage to that.

FNR has a 4 pin and a 5 pin connector. Check these pins by backprobing as well. 4 pin connector pin A (Pink wire) should have 12 volts when the key is on. The 5 pin connector should have voltage to pin E (Tan wire) when the PB is released and the shifter is placed into forward or reverse. If you have voltage to theses, then check the outbound wires to the solenoids.

Check your PM's.

The part number for that relay is in post #6. $380 big ones.
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
026CE275-37FC-48FA-A7B4-AD1026C8064E.jpeg ATTACH] I couldn’t find any thing wrong in the wiring so I decided to take the relay apart. It had a bad solder joint shown in the picture. Look at the pattern of four and you will see the bad joint. Remelted the solder with a sharp tip iron and I’m back in business. Right now I have a $380.00 dollar smile on my face!
 

JL Sargent

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
842
Location
Alabama
That is awesome. Thanks for sharing how you resolved the issue. GM trucks are notorious for same kinda problem on EBS Modules. EBS light appears on dash, you remove the module and resolder certain pins on board, problem goes away.
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
F1B4AF00-4C92-4115-BBDB-24C18EE65318.jpeg F08EB673-F345-4ACB-804E-618D6A239BD2.jpeg A couple more photos for other people that may have a similar problem.
Relay board photo.
Repaired board photo.
 

ajshepherd

New Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2023
Messages
1
Location
Oroville, Ca
Can you tell me
Where this relay was on your tractor or anything it’s close to so I can find it on ours since we have the same issue
 

Spiva Const

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
57
Location
Camino, CA
Occupation
Retired underground utility contractor
Mine was located to the left of the brake pedals, basically on the fire wall. There is a photo if you look close you can see the brake pedals. It’s the size of a cigarette pack.
 
Top