• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

ISO recomendations on a Dozer blade for CTL

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
Looking for a dozer blade for my TL130
 

Tags

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
1,610
Location
Connecticut
Just curious, what are you trying to do with it and what kind of material are you planning on trying to move with it?
 

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
Just curious, what are you trying to do with it and what kind of material are you planning on trying to move with it?
We have a rock and dirt road to our home which has gotten badly rutted out from the rain and need to bring material from the sides, back into the center and build a crown. All natural material. Fist size rock,gravel and some sand. Very rocky
 

CM1995

Administrator
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
13,248
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Running what I brung and taking what I win
I have not run a 6 way on a CTL but I have on a SSL and I'll say this - if you want to punish an operator put him on a SSL with a 6-way blade to make any sort of grade. It may be an entirely different situation on a CTL but I doubt it.

You may want to look at a grader blade with the wheels out front as they seem to perform better however I have no experience with them. I do have a Cat BB124 box blade with laser automatics on it that works great on flat surfaces but's not the best at windrowing material to one side or the other.
 

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
I pretty sure that the ground is too hard for that. 4 way dozer blade is what I’m looking at now. Looking for feedback
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,319
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
I am sure somewhere, someone is happy with their CTL blade purchase, but there are boat loads of people that gave up on that. Especially on a small machine, even if it is a tracked machine. The only guys that personally know that are happy with them is the guys doing drain tile seem to have some success with them.
 

heymccall

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
5,349
Location
White Oak, Pa
Pretty sure that I've got 2 6way units buried in the weeds. Dont do it. Impossible to grade with.

A harley rake type (just don't buy a chain drive unit) would work better.
 

Tags

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
1,610
Location
Connecticut
I would tend to agree with others. Complete waste of money for your application. A Tilt-Tach, grader attachment, or even just a toothed bucket will be more useful to you in the long run. I can see where the blade seems like it would do well but it just does not perform like you would expect.
 

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
This single track road in the Arizona mountains with trees on both sides has gotten to the point where the usable gravel bedding material has gotten pushed to the sides and now the sides are at least 12” higher. There are now granite boulders sticking through 4”-6”. That’s why I was thinking that a blade that I could tilt would make it easier and quicker to bring that material back onto the roadbed. But it doesn’t seem to be a good solution from the feedback I’m getting.
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,319
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
A better solution for that would be the Bobcat grader attachment. It can be wired for your machine. They work great, as long as you have enough switches to run all the functions. Been along time since i have been in a TL130, I cant remember how many aux. functions you have.
 

Tim Modine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
78
Location
Rocky Point NY
How long is the driveway? The money spent on a blade may or may not be worth it, it may be more cost effective to truck in base material, re grade with what ya got to re build crown and compact with a roller. The material you described sounds like a good thing to leave on shoulder as it shouldn't erode away due to its size. Compare the price of buying a blade as opposed to bringing in road base. If the shoulders are 1' higher than center where crown would be, could be an easy fix with trucking in material. Good luck with whatever you. Ive got a ctl and friends with them that have blades either don't use them or they're for sale. With a blade you have to go very slow, and in skids its that not how we're use to operating them lol.
 

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
How long is the driveway? The money spent on a blade may or may not be worth it, it may be more cost effective to truck in base material, re grade with what ya got to re build crown and compact with a roller. The material you described sounds like a good thing to leave on shoulder as it shouldn't erode away due to its size. Compare the price of buying a blade as opposed to bringing in road base. If the shoulders are 1' higher than center where crown would be, could be an easy fix with trucking in material. Good luck with whatever you. Ive got a ctl and friends with them that have blades either don't use them or they're for sale. With a blade you have to go very slow, and in skids its that not how we're use to operating them lol.
It’s s road the services about 35 homes and is about a mile long.
25735E93-47ED-4E77-A0D2-3F29B73BF20F.jpeg
 

Tags

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
1,610
Location
Connecticut
Adding more road base and compacting looks like it would be the best solution. Dirt/gravel roads need constant attention to keep the water moving off of it, standing water causes potholes. Plus, with that many people using the road they tend to push the material out of the corners constantly and it always needs to be pulled back. I would measure the road and figure out how much road base you would need to get it back into shape and how much labor is involved to do the job/buy the right attachment for your skid steer to maintain the road, and have everybody that lives on the road pitch in to get the road right, once the road is graded properly it won’t be too hard to maintain it.
 

CM1995

Administrator
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
13,248
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Running what I brung and taking what I win
IMO from the pic the road really needs to be graded properly before any gravel/base material is brought. It could get very expensive fast bringing in enough off-site material to bring that road up with a crown and have ditches to channel the water away.

AZV is the whole mile long drive like the pic? Or is that just one section?
 

azvacs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
202
Location
AZ
Occupation
Construction Co. Owner/Mechanic
IMO from the pic the road really needs to be graded properly before any gravel/base material is brought. It could get very expensive fast bringing in enough off-site material to bring that road up with a crown and have ditches to channel the water away.

AZV is the whole mile long drive like the pic? Or is that just one section?
The entire thing is like that and that’s the good section.
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,319
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
Hard to believe that there are 35 homes serviced by that road. I think you would also need to get everyone together, and share the cost of fixing that road that is so way beyond a CTL and dozer blade. Adding road base at this point, would be a huge waste of money. Getting 35 homes on board and actually share the cost will be an effort in itself depending on your subdivision rules and so forth. Perhaps a place to start would be to find a couple local contractors to get you bids on fixing it. Present those numbers to those who live on the road and decide if together you can do it for less or pay to have it done. If that is the best section, you might be best off hiring it done. That way a third party is responsible and receiving payment, rather than someone within the subdivision taking the money and fixing it. It would just be much cleaner to hire it done to keep the peace within the subdivision.
 

Mark13

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
272
Location
IL
A better solution for that would be the Bobcat grader attachment. It can be wired for your machine. They work great, as long as you have enough switches to run all the functions. Been along time since i have been in a TL130, I cant remember how many aux. functions you have.

They don't have nearly enough joystick functions to properly run a grader blade. I have a TL230 (basically a newer version of the TL130) and use a Bobcat control box with 5 rocker switches and a separate 14 pin wiring harness to control my blade. I'm able to use all functions as well as control the laser receiver on/off without using any of the joystick buttons/switches.


298104480_10166722544385357_7459605692972356976_n.jpg
 

KSSS

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
4,319
Location
Idaho
Occupation
excavation
I didn't know BC offered a box controller for those. Good to know, I had enough switches on my joysticks, but it took all of them.
 

Mark13

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
272
Location
IL
I didn't know BC offered a box controller for those. Good to know, I had enough switches on my joysticks, but it took all of them.

It has a magnet on the back and I stick it to the right side of my cab just above the joystick for the loader/bucket and it's actually handier to use then I expected. I figured I'd hate it and end up ordering the SS Genius control setup but it's not bad at all.

297691328_737130574032763_6922918714333758195_n.jpg
 
Top