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Terex 5519 project help.

Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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I figured I would just start a thread on this project as it’s going to be on going.

I am going through our new to us 5519 and noticed a couple things. 1 when in neutral it wants to move backwards, 2 when you start it it seems like one side of the hydraulic system has pressure when the controls are in neutral. For example I took the boom extension cylinder out and had to start it. Fluid was pumping out one of the lines which I though was weird. Had to rebuild the slave cylinder and it extended when I started it with one end not pinned. I am guessing they are connected some how, like something is bypassing/ back feeding.

The machine has several issues and trying to work through them one by one. One is the park brake solenoid is burned up, brakes were bypassed and the brake fluid drains out of the tank. So I think the seals are gone in the brakes but haven’t got that far yet, need to drain the oil and see if it’s been thinned out. Just trying to get the major leaks fixed and a service done.

Since threads are better with pictures…
Here it is with the cylinders out for rebuild, the seals were shot and puking out oil.
 

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T

Txhayseed

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Dec 23, 2019
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For movement you need to check the pump null. May need adjustment. But with out brakes it will roll depending on the ground. Parking brake circuit bleeding through into the axle is very common. If the axle is continually over full then its a good sign the seals are bad. Tearing the axle down for brakes and seals is not a bad job and pretty straight forward. What joy stick do you have ? Several options that make a difference.
 
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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Joined
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Messages
404
Location
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Miner
Txhayseed said:
For movement you need to check the pump null. May need adjustment. But with out brakes it will roll depending on the ground. Parking brake circuit bleeding through into the axle is very common. If the axle is continually over full then its a good sign the seals are bad. Tearing the axle down for brakes and seals is not a bad job and pretty straight forward. What joy stick do you have ? Several options that make a difference.
Click to expand...

What is the pump null? (EDIT) looked this up. I know its more that just uneven ground as when I put the chock block behind the wheel it powers into it some.

I examined the brakes and found the brake master cylinder is bad and hope that is where the fluid was going. Ordering a kit to rebuild it Crossing my fingers that's the only brake issue. I haven't put the shims back in the axle for the negative brake since they were removed when we got the machine. I am assuming the previous owners had brake issues and released the negative brake for some reason. Also what i thought was the park brake solenoid is actually something else in the hydraulic system.

I got the slave cylinder pinned but the carriage still doesn't level itself. So I am guessing that the over center valve needs rebuild or replaced.

Are you asking about the joystick for the boom?

This is turning into a bigger project than I anticipated that's for sure.
 
Last edited:
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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upload_2022-6-14_18-22-54.png

Is this what you are referring to?
I guess I need to get a set of guages. Any ideas on what fittings I need?
 
T

Txhayseed

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Ok so you got to separate brake systems. Spring applied hydraulically released parking brake and your drive brakes. Both use the same discs and friction plates but with parking brake piston being held back the service brake piston then can supply fluid from your pedal. Do you got parking brakes at all ?? Or no service brake and no parking brake ?? The cylinder on the carriage has the two holding/ proportional valves. One each direction of cylinder travel designed to jamb the cylinder in lock in case of a hydraulic failure to capture the load. You can remove the valves and install plugs and see if the cylinder then levels out and the carriage follows level up and down. You need to buy caps that have the same pitch as the valves. They are not standard hydraulic caps/plugs. The fork tilt works from the joy stick correct ? Just no auto level ?? If so does the carriage leak down when left up ? If the tilt works from the joy stick and holds itself level like over night with out forks dropping down you can kinda rule out the tilt cylinder since its not by passing internally and valves are not leaking past. But you still have to test the level cylinder you can do that at the main manifold where it Ts in with the tilt function. Does the carriage level in one direction of travel just not the other or none. Just stays where it is until you level it with joy stick. ? Does you machine have the continues flow hydraulic rocker switch and manual knob to adjust fork tilt speed on the right side with parking brake switch ?? A lot of times with 5519s if you feel and hear that hydraulic drag like you mentioned its that switch. You could put a gauge on the row of test ports and see what the test port pressures are
 
Last edited:
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
404
Location
Ca
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Miner
Txhayseed said:
Ok so you got to separate brake systems. Spring applied hydraulically released parking brake and your drive brakes. Both use the same discs and friction plates but with parking brake piston being held back the service brake piston then can supply fluid from your pedal. Do you got parking brakes at all ?? Or no service brake and no parking brake ?? The cylinder on the carriage has the two holding/ proportional valves. One each direction of cylinder travel designed to jamb the cylinder in lock in case of a hydraulic failure to capture the load. You can remove the valves and install plugs and see if the cylinder then levels out and the carriage follows level up and down. You need to buy caps that have the same pitch as the valves. They are not standard hydraulic caps/plugs. The fork tilt works from the joy stick correct ? Just no auto level ?? If so does the carriage leak down when left up ? If the tilt works from the joy stick and holds itself level like over night with out forks dropping down you can kinda rule out the tilt cylinder since its not by passing internally and valves are not leaking past. But you still have to test the level cylinder you can do that at the main manifold where it Ts in with the tilt function. Does the carriage level in one direction of travel just not the other or none. Just stays where it is until you level it with joy stick. ? Does you machine have the continues flow hydraulic rocker switch and manual knob to adjust fork tilt speed on the right side with parking brake switch ?? A lot of times with 5519s if you feel and hear that hydraulic drag like you mentioned its that switch. You could put a gauge on the row of test ports and see what the test port pressures are
Click to expand...

So I am going to break this down, I got too many questions going on at once lol. Trying not to get too involved in too many issues at once with this thing. Goal is to get it functional and then fix the other issues.

Park Brake, it was bypassed and not working until I reinstalled the shims for the negative brake. Then it would not release, I expected this tho.
Rebuilt the pedal master cylinder. Then discovered the electrovalve for the park brake was disconnected and not working. Ordered a new valve and that should fix my park brake release issue. After that I can attempt to bleed the system for the brake pedal to function correctly. According to the book you have to release the park brake to bleed the system.

Carriage auto level: So it does not level either direction and the carriage does not seem to be bleeding off, but does seem to be leaking at the dust seal. The carriage cylinder has new locking valves. The carriage functions with the joystick. I think it might be the valves on the slave cylinder. We lucked out and I got a complete boom off of a 2017 5519. So I have some parts I can move over to test with now, but we might swap the booms since the inner boom is tweaked a little.

I am not sure if it has continuous flow or not. The switch is missing and the PO's put a jumper in so the aux hydraulics will work. I think they did that because the solenoid is burned up in a part of that system. I haven't even attempted to look at that since it works for now. It also does not have the fork tilt speed knob.

I need to find some test guages that fit this machine.
 
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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Well got the new valve in and found out the seals are shot in the negative brake. So now looking into pulling the axle and resealing it. Gonna do a full tear down since we noticed a popping when driving and turning, hoping it was the bad tie rod ends.
Any advice on pulling the axle apart for a re seal?
 
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skata

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How many hours on that machine?
Can you disassemble the axle while it's in the machine? Or do you need to roll it out from underneath?
 
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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skata said:
How many hours on that machine?
Can you disassemble the axle while it's in the machine? Or do you need to roll it out from underneath?
Click to expand...

hour meter shows 2940 seems like it is either incorrect or it just had a rough life. Pretty sure I am going to have to pull it. The shape of the frame wraps around the center of the axle so I can’t just unbolt it and pull one side out. Without knowing exactly how the internals all are I thinks it’s best to pull it. I do know it’s a Dana 603/211 axles.
 
T

Txhayseed

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The axles are surprisingly simple once you get into them. Not really much to them at all. I prefer to remove the axle from the machine if possible. For me its easier to tear it down and reassemble it on the table or shop floor verse slinging up all parts and trying to position them with the hoist. Just be sure to let it drain for a day if possible. Always blows my mind how much fluid still comes out even after draining. So I get a big tub and try to axle tubes off over that and catch that mess before its on my table.
 
Desertwheeler

Desertwheeler

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Joined
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Messages
404
Location
Ca
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We decided to not tear them apart just yet and run it a bit to see how everything else works. But from the sounds of it I might just try it myself. I will probably try to order all the seals I can find before hand so hopefully it can be torn down and put back together in a day or two.
 
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