941B: Change track in field or pay to take to my shop to change there

I just bought a 941B with 3304 engine knowing the rails and sprockets are close to destruction. Rollers and idlers calipered out fine with 50% life left so not sure why the rails were under 0% life left with sharp sprockets. Overall the loader in good shape for it's age so I bought it close to scrap knowing I'd toss in a few grand to make it last. And yes, I know it's still a gamble...but that discussion is not for this thread.

I'll be using it as a ranch loader to clean up the mess I'm making with my excavator clearing cedar, and do the odd job of cleaning out ponds, pioneering out a few roads, building some pads, etc. on our future homestead. I'll probably sell the excavator when I'm done with the majority of work but keep the 941B for the long haul. I bet I'll put less than 500 hours on it over the next dozen years.

So here's my question:
Should I float the 941B from the auction house directly to my ranch and change the rails/sprockets out in the bush? --or-- Spend another couple grand to float it back and forth from my shop (really my Dad's machine shop) a hundred miles away where we have all the proper tools to work it on a covered concrete slab? At the ranch, I have no power and no cover but I have my Cat 325B and my JD 401C front end loader. At the shop, I have a 4k forklift, small tractor with front end loader, plus all the assorted tools and machinery (lathes, mills, presses, welders, plasma cutter, etc.) to make it easy. I can also drag the tools out to the ranch with the generator but it's kinda of a pain, you know.

What say ya'll who've done this both ways? Do it in the bush locally or in the air conditioning a hundred miles away for another couple grand?

If you are reusing your track pads then prob haul it to the shop. If you buy new rails with new pads already installed then you should be able to do it at the ranch easy enough. Or you could spend the $2000 on new pads instead of spending it on trucking. Not sure $2000 would buy the pads but I bet it would be close. Just my $.02

Do you have segmented sprockets or one piece like this thread https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-on-cat-941b-all-torn-apart-whats-next.46493/

Changing rails with pads with alligator master links and segmented sprockets would be no problem in the field

If your changing pads I guess you could pull the track and load it up means you have lifting equipment at both ends

I forgot to mention it's a chariot so will need to torch then weld on a new sprocket. No segments for these guys! It has Berco rails (link numbers CR2845A/46A) and a master link which really helps. The triple grousers are fine and I kinda like that it won't have a significant amount of traction in my soil (brown/black loam for the most part where it'll be used) as it keeps it easy on the drive train. I do have lifting capability at both ends so was planning to remove and install the pads at the shop either way I go here. At the shop I have the large air compressor and 1" impact gun that should do some magic on the pad bolts. The blue wrench and plasma cutter will be close by too. I'm sure I'll build up my biceps with about 300 torque/turns re-installing pads--- not looking forward to that! Transporting the rails/pads back and forth should be straight forward in my 1-ton pickup. I just don't have capability to haul the loader myself.

The other thing I'm worried about is pulling off all the guards and getting a good look at the tensioner, etc. Tension was good on the tracks and remained stable when I did my little bit of test driving. And who knows what I'll find when I get to rotate/wobble the idlers without a track on them. Oh, I forgot I also factored in replacing the top carrier rollers- I don't think those were replaced for the past couple sets of chains or so.

I am curious how many sets of rails, sprockets, and rollers have been through this little guy in the last 50 years.

I couldn't pull the covers off the sprockets but these look like the spoked hubs from where the welds are located. I read a LOT of 941B posts on HEF trying to learn about the quirks of these so I could make a somewhat informed purchase and I remember the hubs being described as 'chariots' . Can't remember exactly where I read it but it stuck in my mind as it's very appropriate. I think tctractors gets credit for that term. Hopefully this loader will scratch my itch for a small earth mover. I'd love a 15-20t dozer but I think this little guy will educate me for a reasonable cost.

here are some pics of the sprockets and rails. height of rails are 3 1/4" to 3 3/8" using a tape measure. CTS is saying these are over 100% used for 9K series links and I'm assuming Berco has similar specs for wear. Bushings had a good amount of wear too and were not turned. Either way, they are near destruction from what I can tell in my very limited experience. I'm sure I could get another hundred hours (2-3 years of my use) which is part of my internal debate: Replace u/c now or run the loader and ensure it has no other major issues and until the tracks literally fall off before replacing them. I'm sure there's good and bad to each.

If the tracks are that close to destruction, I would change them. If you don't you can pretty much guarantee that one will come off in the worst possible place. I did a Deere 450C track replacement in my back yard. New pads and chains, upper and lower rollers, sprocket, idler, tensioner and "death" spring. Everything is light enough to move with basic rigging (come a longs, straps etc) but heavy enough to really hurt if it lands on your foot. Heat, penetrating oil and a 6 foot "torque multiplier" pipe got everything off.
Take the sprocket to your Dad's shop to weld. In short, it will be easier at your Dad's shop but perfectly doable in your driveway.

boaterri said:

Take the sprocket to your Dad's shop to weld.

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Cat's 941B design is for the sprocket and hub to be pressed off and back on each other with a LOT of force. I don't think I can do that in the field. But...maybe what I could do is remove the whole final drives and take them in to the shop....that sounds like a pain the rear end though. Look at this thread, post #120. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/cat-941b-resurrection-under-carriage.89206/page-6 That whole assembly is what I would have to bring into my dad's shop. We have a 200 ton H-frame press so I know I can press it back together...but I don't know of a way to get them apart. I prefer to cut off the old sprockets and weld the new sprocket ring on while on the loader unless removing/replacing the final drives are really straight forward.

But good idea just taking the sprocket/hubs in to the shop. That is an option.

Can you put up a picture of the bushings. It would be like the third picture but up between individual rails to see how much is worn out by the sprockets.

If it's runnable the way it is why not see about getting some use and see how the mechanical parts preform after working it awhile.

I didn't take pics of them when I saw it person last week but there's definite wear. I'll post a pic of the bushings in a couple days when it's delivered.

Here are some pics of the bushings. I calipered them at 1.950" and 1.960" which I think means they're at 120% wear from my research. The bushing wear matches the rails I mentioned above so I'm sure I'll be seeing pins in the near future if I use them as such.

Looks pretty well worn, if you can keep good enough tension on the tracks so you don't throw one off I would work it a good while to find if there's other problems with the machine. My 977L had a link removed and I ran it till most pins were visible some worn off 10% and they had been turned. I think it was original Cat rails. I didn't like the bushing that looks like it's tearing, mark spots like that with spray paint. I'd pick a hot day level ground, not downhill from your place, some job that doesn't need a lot of turning, get out and check things over every now and then. Get a laser temp. gun (getting cheaper all the time, super easy to use) mark temps. in chalk. If there's a plate in front of the peddles use the gun to check trans., torq. converter, hydraulic pump, temps. may have a hatch under the seat ect. If it's a powershift go straight forward dig in and see about spinning the tracks in 1st. Use 2nd or 3rd dig in and stall it out some. Gentle turns with a full bucket. There's oil and fuel screens find them and clean them, if there's a bunch of junk save it and post a picture. Top off oil unless it's close to full. Once its hot can you still spin both tracks in first? Does it begin to over heat? Do the hydraulics get weak?

Cat977 said:

There's oil and fuel screens find them and clean them, if there's a bunch of junk save it and post a picture.

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Get an Operation & Maintenance Manual. That will help you with the location of maintenance items.
Need the complete machine S/N to identify the correct O&M manual, there is a break at 80H2650.
If it's the one I'm thinking it is then it only costs $28 for a pdf download.

@Cat977- Yes, all great questions. When I inspected the machine in the auction yard, I had a whopping 5ft or so to move the machine back and forth to check it out. It was wedged in between graders in front and back hoes behind it so I really didn't have a way to put it under stress. Will play with it to answer the above when I have time in the next month.

@Nige- I already tried to download a manual but am getting an error message. Tried removing the "0" after the prefix but that didn't work either. Looks like I'll need to verify the stamped serial number on the frame to ensure it's the right number. Been searching ebay and other sites for a comprehensive paper manual I can take with me to the machine but would enjoy a pdf version for archive purposes too.

LCA078 said:

@Nige- I already tried to download a manual but am getting an error message. Tried removing the "0" after the prefix but that didn't work either. Looks like I'll need to verify the stamped serial number on the frame to ensure it's the right number. Been searching ebay and other sites for a comprehensive paper manual I can take with me to the machine but would enjoy a pdf version for archive purposes too.

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You need access to more resources.........

Go here - https://catpublications.com/
When the popup appears click on "Continue as Guest"
For a Parts Manual type UEG0680S then click Search. The first illustration below should pop up. It covers 80H machines from 3884 to 5702.
For an Operation & Maintenance Manuual type SEBU6510 then click Search. The second illustration should appear. It covers all 80H machines above 2651.
Downloads are immediately available, CD & paper version attract S&H charges on top of the posted prices. If you want paper versions of both manuals it might pay you to speak to your dealer and ask them for a quotation for those specific publication references.

Sorry, missed one. The O&M is actually two manuals. SEBU6510 covers Maintenance, SEBU5298 (below) covers Operation, should you decide you require one.

I see Nige popped up with just what I was thinking of. The pure Maintenance Manual is much bigger and of course ...$$$

I like the original printed versions ( much better printing of diagrams). For now any type of operation lubrication manual can get you started they are like 30 pages and show screens, lube points ect. If nothing else if you have patience you could get more than you paid for it by listing on Ebay saying your selling parts off this machine. Enjoy your new advance into the Wonderful, and I mean it Wonderful world of Cats Yellow Iron. Getting a good Idea of all the costs is prudent.
To me Cat's the Best and the best investment. You can get good aftermarket parts. But don't let Love lead you down the aisle too fast......$$$.
Best of Luck Enjoy

Cat977 said:

The pure Maintenance Manual is much bigger and of course ...$$$

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Don’t you mean the Service Manual.? That’s the one that can cost up to 4 figures.

Nige- Which manual provides the detailed repair procedures like remove/repair/replace a clutch pack? I'm not concerned with the cost of the manuals as I can't even fill up the fuel tank on the loader for the costs of all the manuals you identified. I'm assuming (and you know what happens when someone assumes) that I'm really looking for a 'service' or 'repair' manual that shows all the repair procedures- but those are not listed. Thoughts?

I see I was writing my post as you posted yours. Yup, I'm looking for the service manual...I"m assuming those are the binders on ebay that run in the couple hundred $$

There I go assuming again...

Sorry, the initial mention above was regarding a Parts Manual (which you will still need because it's not part of any other manual), then up came the idea of an O&M Manual. It's only in the last couple of posts that we've got to a Service Manual.

LCA078 said:

I'm not concerned with the cost of the manuals as I can't even fill up the fuel tank on the loader for the costs of all the manuals you identified.

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Good on you. IMHO the service manual is a good nivestment that you could probably sell separately for more than you paid for it if you ever sold the machine again at some point in the future.

LCA078 said:

Which manual provides the detailed repair procedures like remove/repair/replace a clutch pack?

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The Service Manual. Cat Publication reference REG00527.
Retail price new $652 in paper form, $455 in CD form and not available for download.
Here's a paper one on eBay for $299 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/302027651858?hash=item4652403b12:g:5EMAAOSwZVlXm9og
First thing to ask the seller - "Is it complete.?". In other words is every document that is listed in the Contents (the first sheet inside the binder) page actually present.? I do not see a photo of that page. Make of that what you will.
That service manual should also contain Electrical & Hydraulic Schematics (if they were separate for that machine) and an Operation & Maintenance Manual (or two separate manuals in the case of this particular machine).

Here's another one for $199 that has a photo of the contents list. It is the 2nd photo in the listing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322502818464?hash=item4b16aa7aa0:g:6E4AAOSw42JZCQVZ