Got the new UC on. Notice oil leaking from around the bushing (inside the link) where the metal banding was wrapped around keeping the chains rolled up for shipping. I imagine seals got damaged. Can oil be added through the outer rubber plug. None of my old manuals mention this.
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D8H Salt track Oil
- Thread starter D8HCattle
- Start date
Shimmy1
Senior Member
You need a special tool to fill those links and install the plug. IMO, if you do determine that you have a seal leaking, you may as well get the pain over with and have the links resealed. BTDT. Oh, and FWIW, you will probably end up replacing all the bushings anyway because they will be pitted and not hold new seals. This was my experience the one time we dealt with buying a used set of SALT tracks. They were close to 100% on height, so it was worth it. I'm sure Nicky will tell me I'm crazy. Hopefully he does. 
I’m I right in thinking they are a brand new set?If so, John C has your answer.
If they are second hand and leaking,then they have to be considered at being on the road to the scrap yard sooner rather than later.It may not be an issue though if you were happy at what you paid for them and if the tractor is just a hobbie horse or sees only low hours every year pottering about a farm.
In my opinion,second hand undercarriage parts,particularly chains/rails,need to be regarded as slave parts only and purchased at a cheap price that reflects that.
To do the job right,assuming you’ve actually bought second hand chains,Shimmy has your answer,but the costs to do that here in the UK are simply not feasible.We seem to live in a throw away society these days.
If they are second hand and leaking,then they have to be considered at being on the road to the scrap yard sooner rather than later.It may not be an issue though if you were happy at what you paid for them and if the tractor is just a hobbie horse or sees only low hours every year pottering about a farm.
In my opinion,second hand undercarriage parts,particularly chains/rails,need to be regarded as slave parts only and purchased at a cheap price that reflects that.
To do the job right,assuming you’ve actually bought second hand chains,Shimmy has your answer,but the costs to do that here in the UK are simply not feasible.We seem to live in a throw away society these days.
Many years ago,I bought a set of Berco track groups for a D8H and I noticed oil staines on them when I came to dig them out of storage.At some point I must have spilled abit of oil on them as I’d been using them to store things on.
Since then,I’ve allways stored them with a sheet over.
Make sure your oil weep isn’t the same deal.Pics would help.
Since then,I’ve allways stored them with a sheet over.
Make sure your oil weep isn’t the same deal.Pics would help.
They are brand new.. albeit i had them sitting for a few years stacked on top of each other as i compiled resources and time to do the job. The rubber plug is weathered if I recall. Sounds like i might need to look into that one bushing being resealed. Ill get pictures next time im at the machine. Thank you all!
You can see oil residue, source area from pin and bushing. When I removed the metal banding some of it was jammed up in to where the bushing enters the link. Warranty is not an option where ive waited so long to install. Might be SOL. Thank you guys.
Attachments
John C.
Senior Member
Warranty is always an option on new sealed and lubed tracks. If you bought them from a Cat dealer and they are Cat brand chains, it doesn't really matter how long they were in storage. If they are some other brand you should still ask the question of the seller. I don't see where there is a leak in the photo.
There is no seal where bushing goes thru link.
Bob
Easiest way would be to remove plug and a refill . Keep an eye on it for more oil loss but pull the plug before each season and fill again . It would be a nightmare of a job any other way unless it was next to the master link . The seal may just need a little work to seal anyhow .
Check Break
Senior Member
The "special tool" needed to fill the cavity puts the cavity under vacuum before injecting the lube oil. I don't see any evidence of a leak. Park that link under the swing frame. If it leaks, you won't have any trouble seeing oil on the track pad.
The reason replacing the seal would be a nightmare is because you have to disassemble the chain back to the affected link, reseal and reassemble. I doubt you will do this when advised of the price. We had a set of Berco chains leak. Their warranty. Here's a set of dry pins and bushings and good luck to you.
The real problem is aftermarket pins and bushings are not as hard as CAT. A leaking CAT SALT chain will run as long as a dry CAT chain. Aftermarket dry SALT chain wears faster internally. I believe BERCO is/was the only exception.
The reason replacing the seal would be a nightmare is because you have to disassemble the chain back to the affected link, reseal and reassemble. I doubt you will do this when advised of the price. We had a set of Berco chains leak. Their warranty. Here's a set of dry pins and bushings and good luck to you.
The real problem is aftermarket pins and bushings are not as hard as CAT. A leaking CAT SALT chain will run as long as a dry CAT chain. Aftermarket dry SALT chain wears faster internally. I believe BERCO is/was the only exception.
John C.
Senior Member
A dry SALT chain is essentially all master bushings which barely intrude into the cavity on the small ends of the links. They will not last as long as a sealed track chain because there is no support on the ends of the bushings. Once they go dry they go bad real quick.
So i moved the machine and did notice a bit more oil then the residue pictured above. Local cat dealer mentioned to just run it and start there. They mentioned the special tool but in my case might be best to try and pull the plugs. Any experience doing that? Been to wet to really run the thing so i cant do much more then look at it right now. Thank you all for your help and advice.
Pulling the plug will be the easy bit . No point purchasing a vacuum filler . The joint won't vacuum because air will come in past the seal if its failed . Pumping it in under pressure would be an easy answer if the seal does not wear in with a little work . I notice you say "plugs" , have you got more than one leaking ?