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D6c 74A

LG 78

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Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
Hello everyone Im heading off to check out a D6c 74A 1826 today
Can someone please let me know what year it might be
Thanks for the help
 

LG 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
Thanks once again Old Magnet
Went and had a look all brand new under carriage and possibly one of the best examples left of this model
One track adjuster has just failed on it do you know how difficult it is to replace?
I realize the tract has to be split and the idler pushed forward but are they generally easy enough to replace
Cheers
 

LG 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketp...oving-machinery/bulldozers/listing/3538341018

I have upgraded I still have my 17a which I won't part with for now because hey you just have to have a 17a or 2 in the shed but this deal was just to good to miss can anyone identify the scoop for me please
The machine has had a full engine rebuild in the past has new feet on it and is in very good order
Just the track adjuster to fix and one drum on the cable controller won't spin everything looks to be free the linkages are in good order but some help would be greatly appreciated if someone can point me in the right direction why it won't turn Cheers
 

Tones

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
3,078
Location
Ubique
Occupation
Ex land clearing contractor, part-time retired
The most likely fix for the track adjuster is failed seals and yes the idler has to be removed. The seals may have been damaged caused by over extension prior to the new chains being fitted To check remove the cover and pump grease into it and look for leaks. Do both sides while you are at it. If Coughs don't have them Seal Imports will.
Is the drum on the CCU that's not working used for the bowl rise/lower rope?
 
Last edited:

LG 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
The most likely fix for the track adjuster is failed seals and yes the idler has to be removed. The seals may have been damaged caused by over extension prior to the new chains being fitted To check remove the cover and pump grease into it and look for leaks. Do both sides while you are at it. If Coughs don't have them Seal Imports will.
Is the drum on the CCU that's not working used for the bowl rise/lower rope?
Hi there
Thanks for that not sure which drum does what yet but sitting in the seat it is the right hand side drum not turning
 

Tones

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
3,078
Location
Ubique
Occupation
Ex land clearing contractor, part-time retired
Hi there
Thanks for that not sure which drum does what yet but sitting in the seat it is the right hand side drum not turning
That is usually the one used for the bowl hoist. Probably check the clutch adjustment first, dammed if I can remember how since it's over 50 years when I did it last. I have some recollection about turning the square nut on the side of the winch but that could be also for the brake. Others here will know. The last time I did it I was working a D7e and Birtley scoop at Waiouru.
 

sled dog

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2014
Messages
342
Location
Hartdford City, In.
That is usually the one used for the bowl hoist. Probably check the clutch adjustment first, dammed if I can remember how since it's over 50 years when I did it last. I have some recollection about turning the square nut on the side of the winch but that could be also for the brake. Others here will know. The last time I did it I was working a D7e and Birtley scoop at Waiouru.
Wait a minute. The DRUM should not turn unless you pull the lever. However, the clutch discs should be singing to you with the engine running on a power shift, with the master dogged in on a direct drive. If the left DRUM is turning, that clutch is stuck or the lever is stuck in.
 

Tones

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
3,078
Location
Ubique
Occupation
Ex land clearing contractor, part-time retired
Tones, you are correct. The square nut for clutches, brake adjusts on the band. On the clutch, left is tighter. Remember now?
Bloody hell that's scary or maybe just very well taught. Sometimes I have to be reminded of what I did last week. :rolleyes:
 

LG 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
Thanks for the info everyone
Its a manual drive clutchs are spinning freely but drum on the left will turn and brake when activated as it should all the linkages look to be in good order and working Fairly sure its just adjustment needed as the unit has been under cover but not used for some time
I have purchased it
Brand new under carriage Full re built engine less than 1000 hours ago new master clutch new radiator shes a minter
My biggest problem now is do i sell my beloved D7 17A?
It has about 40 to 50% U/C
need to replace final drive seals from brake drum side
still runs like new etc
Need to adjust clutch and the clutch brake or replace - will be investigating this tomorrow
What do you all think
 

Tones

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
3,078
Location
Ubique
Occupation
Ex land clearing contractor, part-time retired
Sell as is. Vic Draper could be interested in them. He is right into historical machines, then you'll see them at the show in Wanaka. :D
 

LG 78

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2020
Messages
80
Location
King Country NZ
Good evening to all the good and knowledgeable people
Got the D6 home this morning and have got the track adjuster out and yes its just the seals
I have taken both clutch packs out of the CCU as they are running metal on metal and the main seal behind the clutch plates is non existent on both sides
Can anybody tell me if there is another supplier for the clutch plates apart from Cat? Its a number 25
many thanks in advance
 
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