What's your hoe doing?

I guess my lighter port doesn't work because I got nothing from it. However, I opened the dashboard and connected to the hazards/back lights and it worked great! This picture is with the plastic protective film over the lens still so it'll only be better now.



Not often do I have a project that goes fairly seemlessly but this was one of them. I got the electronics hooked up, ran the cable on the outside of the machine, which may prove to be a bad idea, time will tell, and got the mount set up without any major issues. I ended up just using some oak on which to mount the camera and since the camera had a little swivel built in I tightened the wood mount up pretty good. It'll be interesting to see how much things move around when I start bouncing around the yard.





I can already see a couple upgrades right off the bat. Rather than screw the mount in I'll likely weld little mount holders onto the fork brackets with something to clamp it in place, so I can just pull the clamps, then pull the camera, because it's placement will undoubtedly be right in the way upon getting a full bucket load of rocks that spill over. Also I need a way to mark where the forks are level to the ground. My bucket level indicator should make that manageable. Maybe two wire ties that line up when the forks are flat. If anyone has better ideas let me know. I'd also like to run the cable internally but I don't know how feasible that is, right now I just have it running along the lift arms, but I'm pleased there is no movement of cable. I wired tied the cable there loosely so if it needed to move it could but after full range of motion it seemed like any slack I gave it was plenty, maybe too much, and I can tight the wire ties up and take out the slack.

All in all I'm thrilled, but I haven't actually used the camera for the forks yet, so I may have some problems I'm unaware of. Wee!

Did some testing. Still forgot fittings required for a pressure gauge. The clear hoses lead me to check the pump. Cleaned all that trash out and up. Running good now.
The correct bushes were dug up with some supervision.
The last four bushes were put in the burn pile. We already dug up a 26' flat bed load of them and took them to work. Augered the holes and set them in potting soil. Water them about every 4 days in in does not rain. If those turn green they will be Lazarus bushes.

aighead said:

I guess my lighter port doesn't work because I got nothing from it. However, I opened the dashboard and connected to the hazards/back lights and it worked great! This picture is with the plastic protective film over the lens still so it'll only be better now.

View attachment 256400

Not often do I have a project that goes fairly seemlessly but this was one of them. I got the electronics hooked up, ran the cable on the outside of the machine, which may prove to be a bad idea, time will tell, and got the mount set up without any major issues. I ended up just using some oak on which to mount the camera and since the camera had a little swivel built in I tightened the wood mount up pretty good. It'll be interesting to see how much things move around when I start bouncing around the yard.

View attachment 256402

View attachment 256401

I can already see a couple upgrades right off the bat. Rather than screw the mount in I'll likely weld little mount holders onto the fork brackets with something to clamp it in place, so I can just pull the clamps, then pull the camera, because it's placement will undoubtedly be right in the way upon getting a full bucket load of rocks that spill over. Also I need a way to mark where the forks are level to the ground. My bucket level indicator should make that manageable. Maybe two wire ties that line up when the forks are flat. If anyone has better ideas let me know. I'd also like to run the cable internally but I don't know how feasible that is, right now I just have it running along the lift arms, but I'm pleased there is no movement of cable. I wired tied the cable there loosely so if it needed to move it could but after full range of motion it seemed like any slack I gave it was plenty, maybe too much, and I can tight the wire ties up and take out the slack.

All in all I'm thrilled, but I haven't actually used the camera for the forks yet, so I may have some problems I'm unaware of. Wee!

Click to expand...

I don't like to criticize ugly welds, mine fall short of perfect. WTH? My kid when he was first grade did nicer. I'll guess a Chinese 120 volt welder?

I apologize, none of my business.
Some backhoes are meant to upside down the bucket when in backhoe digging mode. I'm not sure about yours. I haven't done it yet on my current hoe, but I plan three trailer hitch receivers on the top of the bucket so I only put the hooks in when using forks.

Heh. The welds were done by my neighbor and while a bit ugly I think they'll hold, and since I don't know much about welding I'm still appreciative. And no, the welder is a big, beefy one. I don't remember the sticks being used 60something. As I watched the welding it seemed as though it was penetrating (cutting) through the top of the bucket, but also seems sturdy. I don't know if the cold and semi-crazy wind had an effect.

I made it through my first real use of the forklift attachment. I moved a few decent sized birch logs... Around 8 foot long by a foot and a half in diameter, maybe? 2 big stump chunks, probably 2-3' diameter. Then I moved 2 20'x24" culvert pipes (one at a time).

A few notes:

I'll say the camera worked great but there are a few issues. I should have bought the 5" screen model. I think the model I have is a 4.2" screen and I have to look pretty hard at it. The camera quality is great and it's easy to see the forklift tips, but still not easy to see when they are level with the ground. I tried one black zip tie and one white one, attaching them on the bucket level indicator thing, but that didn't really work as well as I'd hoped, I guess maybe it got me close. Maybe a small spirit level within view of the camera? I had zero issues with my little mount and I let all the wood slide down pretty hard, onto the forks, as I tilted back. No noticeable movement on the mount or the camera swivel. I can see how easily it'd be to break that little mount though, so brackets to quickly slide that on or off will be pretty valuable.

On the forks... The forks themselves seem beefy and nice. I added a strip of tire to each where the forks hit the cutting edge of the bucket, to hopefully keep from damaging either. The bar is tricky for me and maybe y'all have some suggestions. Upon attempting to load up the logs, on uneven ground, where I was coming in off the edge of the road to pick the logs that were down maybe 6" as I tried to slide the forks under the log it was common for the bar to slide toward the hoe cab and out of the brackets. This was a bit infuriating because while it's nice to install the forks by just driving up to them, it seems silly if I still have to get out every time I use them to get the bar back in place. Also, the 2" thick solid bar does indeed bend some. I had one of the forks maybe 6" in from the middle bracket, with a log on it and I could see some deformation. I think it went back to straight after I dropped the log but I was surprised to see any bend at all (maybe I shouldn't be), I moved the fork back out to right next to the bracket.

I'll definitely need a solution for keeping that bar in the brackets. I'm not sure what that would be and it could be useful to have the bar slide out and keep me from bending the forks but I don't know... The bar has a collar on one end to keep it from sliding out of the brackets but nothing on the other end so it slid out frequently. There's a hole there for a cotter pin or something but maybe I'm missing something else, I'll have to investigate.

I think for moving pallets (haven't tried but it seems like it'd be ok) and for the culvert pipe it's great. For moving random stuff in the yard it's yet to be determined and I probably need much more practice. They do seem substantially better than the clamp-on forks.

aighead,
Both ends should have a locking device. Mine has a cotter pin with a flat washer on each end.


As for a lock, one could make a hinge that could close off the slot, but that kinda defeats the ease of install associated with these over the bucket forks. If you remember, a couple of weeks ago I talked about bending my bar (which is 2 1/8"). This happened when part of the bar unhooked and hot caught as I was using the hoe. Mine were on cuz the bucket leveling was frozen and I couldn't dump the forks off, but wanted to work. Anyhow, it seems they were only designed to move a pallet, then take them off. For that they work great. For the other tasks you have, I would think about making up a piece of 3/4" cut so it could be pivoted to hold the bar captive...gonna need one at each end at least.

Ah-ha! A simple, big, fat washer! That makes sense, thank you!

I was thinking about, basically, what you are saying about 3/4" pivot to hold the bar in, I'm glad to hear you think that'd work too. I'm fine getting on or off the machine to lock that bar in place the one time since it seems like every other time I'm hopping off to shove it back on otherwise. I'll have to consider how to attach said lock.

This is what I envision, one at each end, on the inside of the outer bracket. You could bolt or pin this on as needed.
Sorry for the crappy drawing. I do not have any good software to make it look good.

Willie...My welds are crappy too. Made with a Lincoln 120V machine at wide open throttle, 3 passes. I have thought about a reinforcement to tee in on the back side, but for now, they are working so I am going to leave them alone.

That looks good and simple enough, thanks Swetz!

Dang, you did that with 120v? Hmm... Seems like mine is likely more capable than I thought.

aighead said:

That looks good and simple enough, thanks Swetz!

Dang, you did that with 120v? Hmm... Seems like mine is likely more capable than I thought.

Click to expand...

Welded my thumb on with a Lincoln SP100. Takes the full force of the bucket cylinder and hasn't budged in 6 years. I too was chastised for my welding tools and abilities.

This is encouraging! My neighbor is reasonably happy to help but it's nice to do things on my own and not have to disturb him.

Willie B said:

I don't see your forks. When lifted off the ground your fork vertical member should touch both top & bottom of the bucket. Are the hooks mounted too far forward, so the upright doesn't touch top of bucket?

When using them, always have the cutting edge touching the back of the upright.
I do raise the bucket & roll it out so the tips of forks aren't touching the ground & are hanging free. This makes it easier to adjust width.

Click to expand...

No need for a lock if hooks are positioned correctly, the bar can't move back if the bucket is in correct position.

I'll have to look and verify Willie, I'm fairly positive the hooks are positioned correctly and they'd work fine for jobs where I could just slide the forks into something but if there is much resistance, like getting under a log on the ground the bar pops right out. Part of that may also be that I don't have the right side washer, like Swetz points out, that extra slop may be enough to let the bar loose.

In what sense can it pop out? Once you hook up to the bar, curl the bucket up so the forks are near level, they can't pop out the top of bucket prevents the bar from moving rearward. Only way it can pop out is if you aren't pushing the cutting edge against the fork.

Now I see what you are saying and when you say it that way that is probably what's happening, between that and the forks rubbing the ground. So, there's a log on the ground, it's curved enough that I can get under it with the forks but to do so I lower the forks with the tips pointed down a bit. Once there's some resistance the bar gets pushed out, rather than slip under the log. Like I'm prying the forks under the log but with only enough force to move the bar.

Offer the bucket to the fork. Tilt the bucket until both top & bottom of bucket touch the upright of the fork.
The hook is shaped diameter of the rod, simple J shape. Hook fits perpendicular to the upright member of the fork.
With this arrangement, place your tack welds.



There is a lot of steel in the top strut across your bucket. You likely don't have enough welder to burn through. Your hooks are likely 1" thick. Use 1/8, or 3/32 7018 rods. As big as the welder can run. You need a lot more heat than the welds visible in your camera mount. Run a three, or four bead filet.
As you are welding three or four hooks, weld a stick on each side of a hook, then move to another hook. Big beefy welds will pull! Try to balance.

What was done inboard side of left hook was a weave. Weave is a technique to keep vertical weld from sagging. No value in a flat weld. Weaving flat wastes desperately needed heat. Concentrate heat for best penetration & best fusion. You are able to make it flat. A bead weld at base, followed by as many beads as your welder needs to cover will provide strength. No intentional manipulation, 120 amps, 1/8 7018, or 7018AC (if needed). You want it HOT.
All weld joint is to be ground clean.

aighead said:

Now I see what you are saying and when you say it that way that is probably what's happening, between that and the forks rubbing the ground. So, there's a log on the ground, it's curved enough that I can get under it with the forks but to do so I lower the forks with the tips pointed down a bit. Once there's some resistance the bar gets pushed out, rather than slip under the log. Like I'm prying the forks under the log but with only enough force to move the bar.

Click to expand...

If your hooks are properly placed, your job is to keep the cutting edge touching the forks. You can't push otherwise. No way the hook can disengage if the bucket edge is touching.

Your forks will remain against the cutting edge of your bucket until the bucket is tipped down so far that center of gravity swings them away. Until then they should not be able to dislodge from hooks. You need to push the tips of your forks under the logs, you still need to use the cutting edge to push them. If hooks are in proper place & cutting edge is touching the fork attachment, they are NOT hopping out of the hooks.

I think this is where I got your point Willie...

Tilt the bucket until both top & bottom of bucket touch the upright of the fork.
The hook is shaped diameter of the rod, simple J shape. Hook fits perpendicular to the upright member of the fork.
With this arrangement, place your tack welds.



Bottom line is that aighead and I both welded the brackets too far forward. When I did mine, I pulled up a couple of installation instructions from different manufacturers and neither mentioned that the bracket needs to be welded such that the forks need to contact both the bottom and top when properly installed.

The above stated, I really do not intend to use my forks for anything but to move pallets, so for me it is not an issue. Aighead, you are at a crossroads...make that lock we talked about, or cut the brackets off and reweld them.

I know which route I would take. I went through 2 full spools of flux core @ about $30 each, welding them on. Plus the electric, and a half a day to clean and prep. Oh, and a can of expensive NH grey paint when I was done.


If I ever do it, I know I have the scrap to make up the brackets...no welding and 4 bolts. Granted, a little cutting, but I have a metal bandsaw, so no biggie.

Thank you Willie for clearing this up!