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Where to start... 1845b

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
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8,863
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WI
Did anything move inside the pump, so you could see the second line? If nothing moves, then nothing else matters. Send thepumpguy a message for instructions on how to send it to him. He's a professional.

Obviously, you won't be able to time the engine by the pump if it's broken. I'd time it by the valves, when both valves are close to opening on #4 it will be on TDC on the exhaust/intake stroke, so #1 will be TDC compression stroke.
 

IpswichCASE

Active Member
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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
26
Location
Massachusetts
The lines did move. The pump is spinning. So just line up the lines before pulling or is there something else I need to do/align?

Is is advised not to attempt a rebuild yourself? I have rebuilt many different carburetors and am not afraid to attempt it. I purchased the rebuild kit months ago. And I enjoy the challenge.
 

thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Just line up the lines.. that’s it..
U can snag a rebuild manual off the web.. RoosaMaster DB rebuild manual should get u close.. u have to buy 2 special tools that combine to make 1..
It’s a cam screw removal tool and bushing.. they’re sold separately.
A kit is just 1 part outta about 7-10 that need replacing.. when u get it off, stick your finger in the front of the pump.. where the drive shaft goes.
If u can feel any grooves.. the brass tube will need replacing..
 

IpswichCASE

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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Massachusetts
I appreciate the pointers. If I decide to just have it rebuilt, what’s that going to set me back? I’ve watched a few videos....read a few threads... rookie rebuilders aren’t always successful.

also, is the manual available online for free somewhere?
And where would I buy those tools?
 
Last edited:

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Mar 18, 2010
Messages
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
The cam screw BIT TOOL# is::
Stanadyne 24992

the BUSHING that it rides in is::
Stanadyne 21178
Continue at your own peril..
Good luck.
 

IpswichCASE

Active Member
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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Massachusetts
It's tough when you have no shelter to work on your toys here in the northeast. Cold, snowy, rainy... eh, that's life. I have my skid home (that's another story) and pulled the pump. I found a pretty good video on youtube and disassembled it. Here is what I found...

First, the pump is a Roosa Master DBGFCC 431-54J. Pulling it apart and looking inside it was all gummed up with what I am assuming is the rubber gasket on the weight cage. Some of the parts have caked on fuel and maybe gasket material. I soaked all the parts in a can of ChemDip. It cleaned pretty good... still need to scrape with a razor to clean it up better so everything moves and fuel flows better.

Question - For those who have torn apart a pump to clean it up, do you screw with the adjustments or do you leave well enough alone?
- Roller adjustment via leaf spring screw (you know, pumping 30lbs of air and measuring with a micrometer)
- Adjustments on Throttle lever
Stuff like that.

Finally, I have a copy of an old service manual for John Deere dealers. Same pump in general... but I would love to find a copy of a manual specifically for my pump. Anyone have one? can show me where to get one?

Thanks
 

IpswichCASE

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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Massachusetts
UPDATE- I am rebuilding the injector pump… when I disassembled it the plastic ring on the weight cage was everywhere. And so I thought I may as well replace the injectors also. Eliminate any potential fuel delivery issues.
I have a 1984 1845 … 188d. What injector should I purchase? On the old injector it’s stamped 20350A5. Looked up that number with no luck. Any help?
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
As far as adjusting goes..don’t touch them until u get it running..
The speed adjustments are external and easily set..
As far as the R/R goes, (leaf spring) try to measure it BEFORE u year it apart.!!
If u can get a measurement on it and the shoes are extended against the leaf spring and u can’t push them back in without a lot of finger force..GO FOR IT..BUT.. if ur smart, you’ll measure it w a micrometer BEFORE U TOUCH THAT SCREW..
Oh, if u move/remove it, U GOTTA KNOW what the actual measurement is SUPPOSED TO BE..
Do yourself a favor, hold the rotor up to a light and look thru the leaf spring for any leftover flex ring material.. if there is none, there’s no sense in pulling it off..
Disclaimer >> THATS NOT how the pro’s do it.. We have the tools and specs to reset it correctly..

THATS the thing about tearing into your pump..”A” it takes special tools.
“B” there are specs that need to b known..& they aren’t available to the general public..
Sure, it can b done but it ain’t “right”
As far as injectors go.. I googlehoo’d them and a gazillion choices came up..
 

IpswichCASE

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Location
Massachusetts
As far as injectors go.. I googlehoo’d them and a gazillion choices came up..
Thanks for the pointers... Regarding the injectors, I have also googled them using the number I posted and what comes up certainly looks the same. Am I to believe that all I need to do is look for a Case 188d injector and what comes up will work just fine? And that it won't need adjustment?
Do yourself a favor, hold the rotor up to a light and look thru the leaf spring for any leftover flex ring material.. if there is none, there’s no sense in pulling it off..
I did not pull the leaf spring for exactly what you are saying. I didn't want to screw with the measurement. I held up the rotor and looked between the spring and did see some possibly leftover flex ring material. Small little pieces. I blew them all out and there is nothing now to interfere. I'm not going to remove the leaf spring.

Since I have you... the pump is a CC rotation. To replace the parts that need to be oriented properly, would I install them with the "cc" up? or does the "cc" need to be facing the drive side of the pump?
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Cc is up, looking at u..
Same w the cam ring..

Don’t buy any old inj for a 188.!!
Your part # is the 5 digit number..
leave off the end #’s..
 

IpswichCASE

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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Massachusetts
Thank you "pumpguy". With this info I can put it back together and hopefully she will live again.
The injector has number 20350. That is all I need? I will look.
XvFh0jum.jpg
 

IpswichCASE

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Dec 22, 2020
Messages
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Location
Massachusetts
Hey Knuckles... thanks for the pump manual. I had found that online, saved it, and have printed certain sections. I appreciate you attaching it. I've read through it and like anything that you are not familiar with I am sure I am missing some finer points. I'm becoming familiar with the pump. I just hope when I put it all back together and in the skid it works. If it doesn't I'm not ashamed to admit defeat. But that won't stop me from trying... I'm sure I'll pull it out and see if I can find where I screwed up.

Pumpguy.... wow, cost of the 20350 injector compared to others is more than double. Shoot, I get needing to use the correct one. Are you saying that this number is OEM? and the best one for the job? And that some others would work but maybe wouldn't last as long or tune as well? or that any other simply will not work?
 

Bloody Knuckles

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Dec 11, 2021
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Blair Ne
I was reading the post and read where it was a Roosa Master pump... Kinda hard to forget a name like that. I used that manual a couple years ago working on a 58 Ford 901 and it did help me out.
 

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
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WI
The correct injector will have the correct number and size of holes, and pointed in the correct direction, and correct pop off pressure. Others might work, some would change the pressure or hole size and survive. Some would change the direction and burn out pistons in short order. Some wouldn't fit obviously.

If that number "cross references" to newer numbers, then they will work.

Roosa Master became Stanadyne, still very popular.
 
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