dieseldog5.9
Senior Member
Spokes are in good shape, open rims are cheep, you may be able to buy a radial rim and an 11r22.5 tire
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Switching from dayton hubs to hub pilot hubs
- Thread starter doublewide
- Start date
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Just use 22.5 two hand hold steel wheels/11.00 22.5 tires IIRC easier to find.
Salvage yards are full of wheels
Salvage yards are full of wheels
Yes you could put tubeless spoke type wheels on if all your thinking is for new tires It would be a bunch cheaper depends on your needs
As far as your steer tires I would consider those to be done need to be changed good for a trailer or old off road farm truck 20,s are generally obsolete and the split rims just need to go away
As far as your steer tires I would consider those to be done need to be changed good for a trailer or old off road farm truck 20,s are generally obsolete and the split rims just need to go away
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Hub pilot spoke wheels?
dieseldog5.9
Senior Member
You are from Massachusetts, take a ride up to rydmore truck parts, they have used tire and rim combinations, spoke wheels are not that odd on the east coast, personally I would run what ya brung.
I bought a whole front axle and swapped the brake spiders and hubs shoes and drums with self adjusting slacks out to replace a set of wedge brakes. A whole front axle from rydemore is cheaper than buying all the parts.
I bought a whole front axle and swapped the brake spiders and hubs shoes and drums with self adjusting slacks out to replace a set of wedge brakes. A whole front axle from rydemore is cheaper than buying all the parts.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Minnesota Mags.
crane operator
Senior Member
3 ugga ugga dugga's and I'm there!
Nothing special about budds, except theres twice as many nuts to take off.
If you want your tires done a certain way, change them yourself. If you're not competent to do it yourself, don't take it to someone else and then complain how they are doing it. If you have time to watch, you've got time to help, if not- go drink coffee somewhere else.
Tenwheeler
Senior Member
And how do you know your air wrench? I check with a torque wrench once in a while. I know when my air compressor cuts on its time to stop. Not to many ugga duggas on those inner Budd nuts or you will be replacing studs.
Some morons around here tighten lugs so tight they have to be heated with a torch to get them off. What do you do with a fuel tanker like that and this will not get the job done?
Those Daytons are not really so bad just get them running true.
Some morons around here tighten lugs so tight they have to be heated with a torch to get them off. What do you do with a fuel tanker like that and this will not get the job done?
Those Daytons are not really so bad just get them running true.
3 ugga ugga dugga's and I'm there!
View attachment 254864
Nothing special about budds, except theres twice as many nuts to take off.
If you want your tires done a certain way, change them yourself. If you're not competent to do it yourself, don't take it to someone else and then complain how they are doing it. If you have time to watch, you've got time to help, if not- go drink coffee somewhere else.
It's not wanting them done a certain way, it's wanting them done the right way so a tire doesn't come off and kill someone. It's a lot different at a tire shop when they are doing all different wheels the same way, despite different torque requirements.
Any shop who let's a customers truck leave without torqueing the wheels is not a shop I would ever let touch my stuff, if you or any company does it with their own stuff it's fine it's theirs, but someone who is paying for it to be done properly? That's not ok.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Many years using one. I've never lost wheels, but one item I do that I see no one else doing, I spray the studs
down with penetrating fluid first to remove dirt-saves the threads taking them off.
Tenwheeler
Senior Member
You are not alone. Do you put anything on them putting them back?
Also those $100,000 horse trailers. I torque all those lugs and would do the same on a motor coach. At least check them by hand on the side of the road.
crane operator
Senior Member
I've got one old crane that if I keep it- I think I can cheaper find a full tandem cut off with a 5 something gear ratio, and just swap the whole thing in one shot. Get rid of my 20" rubber, wedge brakes, and the ancient rockwells that are under it.
Its twin steer up front, I might have to get creative switching them.
I hopped my lowboy all over my yard trying to get the wheel studs off it. Air gun wouldn't touch them, and then I was right after them like you with a 12' cheater. I first spun the wheels (empty tri axle trailer doesn't have much grab), then I chained the wheels up and was bouncing the trailer around the yard. I finally got one of these:
They look like a bunch of chinese junk, but the stupid thing works. Its a lifesaver on the side of the road with no air.
https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Torque-Multiplier-Saving-Wrench/dp/B00MI0DOW6
Tenwheeler
Senior Member
Yes they do.
Tenwheeler
Senior Member
On common trucks like his you can usually find disc wheel and hub assemblies and just install them on the axle.
terex herder
Senior Member
They make tork sticks for truck wheels. Lots better than guessing with a air gun.
Pony
Senior Member
Yeah I've got one of those cheap torque multipliers as well, it lives in the truck and has come in really handy a few times.
Haven't broken it yet.
Haven't broken it yet.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I have roughly 1,200 wheel ends to deal with, that's 12,000 studs and 12,000 nuts.
Just WD40 or so on studs.
First job of the day yesterday-replace four air disc rotors and brake pads all inboard, 1 1/2 hrs per corner.
It's constant brake work and tire work. 60% plus of my work is dealing with wheel ends.
Wait till one of you have a hub pilot aluminum wheel fused to hub. 90% of the time you can go through
wheel holes and bar off of drum or rotor to break loose soaked in penetrating fluid, then there's the
10% that you install four nuts loose and drive around doing figure 8's to break them loose. Salt and
de-icing fluid will corrode them in place in one year. I've had wheels that took 1 hr to remove.
When dealing with this many wheel ends-a constant every day exercise you get to know what your doing,
I don't have time to by the book every lug nut, that's fantasy. And again I've never lost any wheels or
wheel ends.
Just WD40 or so on studs.
First job of the day yesterday-replace four air disc rotors and brake pads all inboard, 1 1/2 hrs per corner.
It's constant brake work and tire work. 60% plus of my work is dealing with wheel ends.
Wait till one of you have a hub pilot aluminum wheel fused to hub. 90% of the time you can go through
wheel holes and bar off of drum or rotor to break loose soaked in penetrating fluid, then there's the
10% that you install four nuts loose and drive around doing figure 8's to break them loose. Salt and
de-icing fluid will corrode them in place in one year. I've had wheels that took 1 hr to remove.
When dealing with this many wheel ends-a constant every day exercise you get to know what your doing,
I don't have time to by the book every lug nut, that's fantasy. And again I've never lost any wheels or
wheel ends.
DMiller
Senior Member
And then there is a Six year parked East Coast salted unit that the hubs and wheels were that corroded but Could NOT run laps around the yard. Fight and they will come off.
crane operator
Senior Member
Do you use those plastic spacers? I've never had them, and didn't know if you would have enough hub and studs to put a double set. I think I've only ever seen them between rims, not between rim and hub.
