2004 International 7300

materthegreater · Oct 1, 2021

An air comp hitch would be sweet. But 45 ton seems to be the smallest with that option. My trailer has a GVW of 24446 lbs. I could technically use a 15 ton hitch. It's possible someday I'll have a bigger trailer but I can't imagine ever trying to tow more than 40000 lbs with this truck. I'll probably end up getting a 30 ton regular pintle hitch, mainly for the higher vertical load rating. If only the air ones weren't so expensive...

P.s. any thoughts on swivel?

Willie B · Oct 2, 2021

I'm not the expert, but I've driven over some pretty rough terrain, never needed a swivel. I'm not sure how much articulation is possible without.

Mine is two channels vertical from the dump frame which extends rearward a couple feet past the dump pivot. A diagonal brace spans from this channel to dump frame. A box of same channel surrounds the hitch plate.
I'd like to move mine forward about a foot. It'll clear the trailer jack as long as I'm level. I feel moving the hitch closer to the axle will improve the hopping. Went to Plainfield NH yesterday, 16000-17000 LB backhoe, route 12? was terrible rough, rear hop was pretty bad. Got to VT side of the river, it all went away.

materthegreater · Oct 4, 2021

Time for some fab work

materthegreater · Oct 4, 2021

Willie B said:
I'm not the expert, but I've driven over some pretty rough terrain, never needed a swivel. I'm not sure how much articulation is possible without.

Mine is two channels vertical from the dump frame which extends rearward a couple feet past the dump pivot. A diagonal brace spans from this channel to dump frame. A box of same channel surrounds the hitch plate.
I'd like to move mine forward about a foot. It'll clear the trailer jack as long as I'm level. I feel moving the hitch closer to the axle will improve the hopping. Went to Plainfield NH yesterday, 16000-17000 LB backhoe, route 12? was terrible rough, rear hop was pretty bad. Got to VT side of the river, it all went away.

I've been told the swivel is to prevent the truck from rolling over if your trailer flips over.

Sounds like a lot of Yankee ingenuity went into the hitch. Did you build it?

Willie B · Oct 5, 2021

"I've been told the swivel is to prevent the truck from rolling over if your trailer flips over."

Slow down for corners. In a perfect world, you won't flip the truck either.

"Did you build it?"
No I bought a 1976 C65 from the most terrifying city I've ever been in. I guess this was installed by the dump body dealer. On this "new" truck, it sits taller. Other hitch geometry might behave better. I feel it wants to be closer to the rear axle. In fact, I'd consider a gooseneck on this one.

materthegreater · Jan 6, 2022

Some goodies showed up today.

Willie B · Jan 7, 2022

materthegreater said:
Some goodies showed up today.

View attachment 251510

50 ton should do it! I hope you never see anything close to that.
15 years ago an excavator bought a new to him excavator. He was on his way to pick it up, I asked what size? He replied 20 ton, that's all you can tow behind a tandem dump. For a number of years that seemed to hold true, lately I see a few triaxle trailers labeled 25 or 30 ton. I presume that is gross weight. A 25 ton trailer must weigh close to 10,000 LBS but I don't know that.

Willie B · Jan 7, 2022

I put a 3" receiver in mine also. The trailers I might tow with receiver hitch wouldn't exceed 10,000 LBS, but the dump body overhangs quite a lot, I'll need an extension to tow the camper or any other trailer with much stuff mounted on the tongue. I kind of doubt I'll ever use the receiver.

materthegreater · Jan 7, 2022

I decided I wanted an air compensated hitch, and the 50 ton was the cheapest. I really liked the look of the premier brand ones but they're so expensive. This one is overkill to say the least.

I probably won't tow small trailers with this truck but wanted the option just in case my other truck is down when I need to tow the mower or boat, etc

materthegreater · Jan 10, 2022

materthegreater said:
View attachment 246390

Time for some fab work

Ready to work (almost)

materthegreater · Jan 19, 2022

This truck has a direct drive hydraulic pump off the front of the crankshaft. When it's real cold it puts a lot of load on the starter trying to turn on the cold engine oil and hydraulic oil. Any ideas of how to disconnect the pump for starting purposes? I've seen a similar system on a skidder, where you flip a lever to disconnect the hydraulic pump, start the engine, then shut it back off and re-engage after engine is up to temp.

Willie B · Jan 19, 2022

materthegreater said:
This truck has a direct drive hydraulic pump off the front of the crankshaft. When it's real cold it puts a lot of load on the starter trying to turn on the cold engine oil and hydraulic oil. Any ideas of how to disconnect the pump for starting purposes? I've seen a similar system on a skidder, where you flip a lever to disconnect the hydraulic pump, start the engine, then shut it back off and re-engage after engine is up to temp.

I wanted to add a pump front of engine. The Abbots bought a used Town truck with one, it seemed the way to do it. I'd swear their IH is belt drive?
I couldn't do it because the core of the radiator is directly in line with the crank. I ended up with PTO pump. It wasn't easy to find. I made the mistake of used PTO units. I bought three, all damaged in removal from the donor. Ultimately, I bought new from Fleet Pride. I believe $1300. covered PTO, pump, controls & shim kit.

materthegreater · Jan 19, 2022

The radiator core is above the crank on this one. Chester town trucks have special radiators with a hole for the shaft. Apparently it's difficult to work on them. But I believe their pumps are able to be destroked somehow. There is an electric circuit going to the pump which is to control the displacement I assume.

I also have a PTO pump for the dump body. Must be it didn't have enough flow for the plow and sander circuits as well.

Jonas302 · Jan 19, 2022

If your not using the front pump at all just pop the driveshaft off its four bolts holding it to the crank pulley I have never seen a plow truck with 2 pumps and cant imagine any good reason why but if your not plowing it might work out great for you

By the way I never disconnect the front pumps at -25f they make some noises but crank right over plugged in of course

materthegreater · Jan 19, 2022

I do use the plow, so I can't completely disconnect it. As far as I can tell, this truck was originally spec'd for NH air force. Not sure why they set it up this way. There is no block heater, DT466 has no glow plugs or preheater of any sort that I can find.

It started fine at 5 F, no go at 10 below. Switching to a lighter grade oil would probably help.

Willie B · Jan 19, 2022

With help, blow a heat gun into the air intake. Do it a while before trying to start. Simultaneously heat the batteries will help. It's so much less violent than ether.

My Case 580 Super N calls for 0W-40 oil year round, thinner than water.

Steve Frazier · Jan 19, 2022

I drove a municipal plow truck in the late 70s and back then the front pump had a cable to engage and disengage it. Sounds like they aren't doing that anymore?

Keith Merrell · Jan 19, 2022

Are you planning on putting in an air tailgate actuator? If you do this is what I use: https://mpparts.com/part/automann-179-sc30rl-tailgate-chamber-with-long-push-rod-179sc30rl
Also, good for you getting the air pintle. I never had a problem with the truck being slammed back and forth when I had a standard pintle, however a friend of mine told me once about when he was pulling wiggle wagons and stopped into the scales they pulled him aside and pointed at the pintle connection and he said he saw with wide eyes his pintle latch was open but the air actuator had held it for 40 miles

colson04 · Jan 20, 2022

materthegreater said:
There is no block heater, DT466 has no glow plugs or preheater of any sort that I can find.

I had an early 90s international plow truck with a DT466 and Allison transmission (MT653). Mine had a block heater for those extra cold days. Hit up the Google machine, or call your IH dealer and get a block heater for your truck. They are very simple to install and make a world of difference in reliably cold starting the engine. My truck was mechanical injection, and started really quick down to about 20F. Below that and it cranked a little more before starting, but always started.

materthegreater · Jan 21, 2022

Steve Frazier said:
I drove a municipal plow truck in the late 70s and back then the front pump had a cable to engage and disengage it. Sounds like they aren't doing that anymore?

Doesn't appear to be on this truck anyway. But it sounds like a good simple way to do it.

2004 International 7300

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